"tuned" profile fuel pins.

[chapel gate]

in response to comments regarding altered profile fuel pins on another thread, and not wanting to hijack another members thread i have started a new one.

the thinking behind a off the shelf altered profile fuel pin or an aneriod fuel pin, is its a consistent and drop in solution to "grinding" your existing pin. i can, have and will custom grind pins, i run one in my own 80.

if a altered profile pin of any description is simple installed and no other adjustments made you will have excessive black smoke, and more importantly excessive EGTs. i have rebuilt two customers low mileage perfectly healthy engines due to excessive EGTs. both had G turbos and intercoolers fitted, but no boost or EGT gauge. they were "tuned" by seat of the pants and the amount of smoke emitted by the exhaust. it is not possible to judge EGT by the amount of smoke coming out of the exhaust. sure, if theres no smoke your more than likely ok, but your not getting the most out of your money spent. if theres lots of smoke then EGTs are surely too high.
Then there is the in between, which is where the sweet spot is and the "tuning" comes in to play.

if you have a healthy injector pump you do not need to have it rebuilt to fit a tuned fuel pin, G turbo, intercooler or more fueling. if its not healthy you should have it serviced regardless. dont fit a electric pusher pump to mask a faulty injector pump.
The only time you will need to have your healthy injector pump rebuilt is if you need it to deliver more fuel than the stock pump is capable of, you will also need higher flowing injectors and increased air intake and a 30+ psi turbo. ARP head bolts are also recommended as the head has a chance of lifting.

other than the the basic boost compensator mods i wont fit a G turbo, intercooler or increase fueling without boost and EGT gauge.

some people will tell you otherwise, and they may get away with it, but ultimately you are just rolling the dice and potentially not getting the most out of your hard earned.

 

[chapel gate]

melted piston due to high EGTs, the head was also cracked. the piston bore was scored beyond a rebore and the walls were pushed out of shape. basically a new head and block needed.

 

[chapel gate]

@felix2566

I do beleive its possible to set the engine up correctly with the modified pin, it's just finding the right person who really knows what they are doing

ok, im being blatant here, i think i need to start advertising a bit more..

 

[felix2566]

Thanks for the detailed reply. I've got boost and EGT gauges on order.

Where abouts in the country are you based, will have to book in with you to have it set up once I've fitted the gauges

 

[chapel gate]

No worries.

I'm based in leek, Staffordshire. Not far from alton towers!

When I install the gauges I always install a manual boost controller and I tap the EGT probe into the exhaust manifold where its most accurate. I'm more than happy to do all of this for you if you don't fancy it yourself.

Hallman are pretty much the best on the market, I've also fitted turbosmart as supplied by customers.

Although expensive, and a faff to fit. These are the most factory looking and tidy gauge pods imo. The location is perfect for glancing at while driving.


Once you have your gauges and boost controller fitted you can safely monitor your engine and turbo and make adjustments. Moving on to a intercooler and/or Gturbo if that's a path you would like to go down in the future.

 

[chapel gate]

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

Are you removing the manifold / turbo to install the EGT probe, or drill & tap in situ if not removing for other reasons? I've done it in situ once before on a previous 80, but it's still on the to-do list for this one (and no, I haven't installed the fuel pin or changed fuelling yet for this exact reason) and can't decide if I should do it the long way, or just get on with it in situ again.

 

[felix2566]

Tidy instal with the pillar pods

 

[chapel gate]

Are you removing the manifold / turbo to install the EGT probe, or drill & tap in situ if not removing for other reasons? I've done it in situ once before on a previous 80, but it's still on the to-do list for this one (and no, I haven't installed the fuel pin or changed fuelling yet for this exact reason) and can't decide if I should do it the long way, or just get on with it in situ again.

If I'm installing a new turbo i drill and tap on the bench as its obviously easier.
If the manifold doesn't need to come off I drill and tap in situ.

A lot of 80s I've come across are close to needing the heater coolant/turbo water hard lines replacing due to corrosion, as well as turbo oil feed/return. So you could tie it in with replacing them if there not in great condition.

Unless there in very good condition I always replace these, along with the split manifold seals, gasket and studs/nuts.

 

[LandcruisingFarmer]

I have been looking for gauge pods for a while but was thinking more in the area around the sunroof controls. My 80 came with the altimeter which didn’t work so I took it out years ago. The space left behind would be good to use but it isn’t big enough. However, I have found this guy in Oz and he is happy to post to the UK, sorry if some already know about it, I only found it today. Don’t know if I could get a discount for multiple units but I’m sure there must be. I’m going to order the triple gauge pod and a switch panel. If anyone else wants something let me know and we could do a group buy maybe? Obviously post and tax split on entry to here, but I’m happy to post around the country when things come in. Let me know.

Toyota Landcruiser 80 Series - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]

 

[chapel gate]

Nope, never seen that site before, interesting solutions.

 

[guruvetim]

melted piston due to high EGTs, the head was also cracked. the piston bore was scored beyond a rebore and the walls were pushed out of shape. basically a new head and block needed.
View attachment 340301

Just out of interest, what would you say was a safe maximum EGT. I have both a boost gauge (running 1.1bar) and an EGT gauge with the probe in the manifold just before the turbo. On a full throttle up hill pull I get a max EGT of about 650c - 700c would you say that was ok?

 

[chapel gate]

Just out of interest, what would you say was a safe maximum EGT. I have both a boost gauge (running 1.1bar) and an EGT gauge with the probe in the manifold just before the turbo. On a full throttle up hill pull I get a max EGT of about 650c - 700c would you say that was ok?

thats pretty much spot on.

 

[Towpack]

I have a 1HD-FT 80, bog standard other than 3" exhaust and the pump "tweaks" listed on the LC Cool website which just optimise the 3 basic adjustments, excluding the max volume injection, of the standard pump.
I could easily hit 1200-1250 F (650-650 C) when towing the caravan uphill at motorway speeds in top gear. Changing down to 4th would usually drop the temps around 100 F.
When I had a Disco Tdi in a previous life I thrashed that up and down the motorway to Scotland and back towing a boat for years without issue and never gave EGT's or oil pressure a thought as it had no gauges! Maybe I was just lucky?

 

[guruvetim]

thats pretty much spot on.

That's good.

Thanks

 

[chapel gate]

I have a 1HD-FT 80, bog standard other than 3" exhaust and the pump "tweaks" listed on the LC Cool website which just optimise the 3 basic adjustments, excluding the max volume injection, of the standard pump.
I could easily hit 1200-1250 F (650-650 C) when towing the caravan uphill at motorway speeds in top gear. Changing down to 4th would usually drop the temps around 100 F.
When I had a Disco Tdi in a previous life I thrashed that up and down the motorway to Scotland and back towing a boat for years without issue and never gave EGT's or oil pressure a thought as it had no gauges! Maybe I was just lucky?

i dont know TP. the general consensus of about 700c/1300f is probable on the conservative side, leaving a margin of error.
which is no bad thing. in theory a diesel in stock tune should never produce potentially engine damaging EGTs. as soon as you start altering fueling all bets are off, hence the gauge.
maybe if you kept pushing it you would top out at 1400f for example, and toyota are happy at that for short periods of time.. ive hit 1600f before backing off, and it would of gone even higher, towing 3 ton up bank, but i keep to no more than 1300f for the most part.

whats the average life span of the Disco TDI engine out of interest?

 

[Towpack]

The 200 & 300Tdi engines have a good reputation and are popular transplants for old series LR's. With good maintenance they can go 300,000m without issues. I must admit mine pulled very well for a 2.5L turbo diesel in a relatively heavy vehicle. Some of the early 300's had a timing belt issue which almost caught me out but I found it in time. It never let me down but it was quite a noisy engine with a pronounced diesel clatter. Mine was a 1994 which I sold in 2005 with just over 100k on the clock but corrosion between the alloy body panels and steel frame was starting to rear it's head and it's hard to stop once it gets hold, short of removing panels and refitting with a corrosion barrier.

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

Some data for the thread - first longer drive in my 80 after finally installing the EGT probe in the usual manifold spot just before the turbo. Easy cruising at around 60mph, EGT is around 400c. Easily hits 600c if there's a bit of a hill, 700c for bigger hills. Max EGT was 767c thrashing it up Birdlip which is hard work but short lived compared to some of those big hills it got thrashed up in France and Portugal last year. Ambient temps were around 5c. No intercooler. Stock turbo - boost maxes out at 10.5 psi. 3" exhaust. Boost compensator adjuster on the pump has been tinkered with by PO for sure but no way of knowing exactly what. Standard pin. Anti tamper collar still in place on max fuel screw.

Doesn't go too badly but likes to smoke at lower revs more than most so I suspect the low/no boost adjustments have been overdone.

So apart from the exhaust, engine is pretty stock, just someone played with the boost compensator which I don't think is doing a lot thrashing up a big hill at max boost?

I have an intercooler, fuel pin and boost controller to fit, but have been wanting to gather some EGT data first and get a feel for what's normal on stock ish setup before I make changes.

Not hard to see that just turning up the fuel a bit on this setup and hope for the best would make for some very high EGT's.

 

[Grimbo]

I must get round to fitting an EGT gauge .....
The biggest single improvement to power/performance I have found was fitting my 3 inch exhaust .
I've carried out the usual boost adjustment by optimising the adjustment on the top of the compensator and the turning the pin with your eyes closed mod and also wound the max fuel screw in a little .
It doesn't smoke in normal use .... a puff of black if you just sit and rev it ....flies through the MOT no problem .
No idea what the boost is .....
I was pleasantly surprised when I gave it a good run on the motorway the other day.... overtaking and acceleration from 65 to 80 mph was most unlike a big heavy old truck... it felt spritely and defiantly as a result of the exhaust ..... over 3000 rpm you can hear the exhaust note change.... a bit like a 2 stroke coming on song ;-) .
Intercooler next I think and optimise boost from my standard turbo .
I'm running 285/75/16s so it is overgeared for towing in 1st ( manual box) so also a pair of auto diffs on the list .

 

[chapel gate]

Some data for the thread - first longer drive in my 80 after finally installing the EGT probe in the usual manifold spot just before the turbo. Easy cruising at around 60mph, EGT is around 400c. Easily hits 600c if there's a bit of a hill, 700c for bigger hills. Max EGT was 767c thrashing it up Birdlip which is hard work but short lived compared to some of those big hills it got thrashed up in France and Portugal last year. Ambient temps were around 5c. No intercooler. Stock turbo - boost maxes out at 10.5 psi. 3" exhaust. Boost compensator adjuster on the pump has been tinkered with by PO for sure but no way of knowing exactly what. Standard pin. Anti tamper collar still in place on max fuel screw.

Doesn't go too badly but likes to smoke at lower revs more than most so I suspect the low/no boost adjustments have been overdone.

So apart from the exhaust, engine is pretty stock, just someone played with the boost compensator which I don't think is doing a lot thrashing up a big hill at max boost?

I have an intercooler, fuel pin and boost controller to fit, but have been wanting to gather some EGT data first and get a feel for what's normal on stock ish setup before I make changes.

Not hard to see that just turning up the fuel a bit on this setup and hope for the best would make for some very high EGT's.

good baseline data. now imagine going up those steep hills towing 3 tons..

Not hard to see that just turning up the fuel a bit on this setup and hope for the best would make for some very high EGT's.

correct, something ive been saying all along, i wont touch anything until a boost and EGT gauge has been fitted.
some claim you can just go off the amount of black smoke from the exhaust. you cant, and ive got a few 1HD Ts in need of a rebuild to prove it.

the 3" exhaust should help lower EGTs. so taking into account your data, we can probable say toyota are happy for EGTs to be higher than the perceived safe limit of 1300f. theres nothing wrong with a healthy margin of error and safety though, so i will be sticking with the 1300f.