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The original headlights are showing their age, not the road ahead. New ones from Mr T are an eyewatering price; does anyone have any advice on aftermarket replacements?

A quick revival! I'm trying to install a factory SUB tank and would really appreciate a picture of an OEM installation to copy.; particularly the pipe work, the solenoids and their brackets. This thread looks as though it once had pictures from Chapel Gate but these are not downloading. Are they...

OK. But if that's all it does why make it so complicated, and what is it timing. When you start the ignition switch powers the starter relay and the "timer" at the same time. (it also tells the glow plug computer and the AC as I would expect) I could understand making a short delay before...

Yes Firewart, that was part of my problem. The OEM starter pre 1996 with the post type actuator connector is only available, so far as I could find, in Chinese copies or from Toyota at eye watering prices. ($1733 from Amayata) I bought a genuine Denso DSN1228 specified for 1996 onwards for £175...

I have absolutely no doubt that I am overthinking the whole business but I do go to some pretty remote places and the more I understand about how the 80 works the more confident I feel that the solution to any problems won't involve a lot of walking; so I like to know what things do and why...

Well you say I shouldn't worry but I hate leaving things I don't understand. Although I said I had connected the fusible link that feeds the starter relay to the negative terminal of the starter battery I hadn't actually done it then but I used a temporary wire from the other battery. Actually...

And finally, having fitted the later starter specified for late 1995 onwards I was struck by a thought. The original starter was 24V on both circuits with the actuator fed through the starter relay from a fusible link attached to the starter battery positive. The late 1995 onwards 80s wiring...

Not so sure about interesting- but time consuming, frustrating and slow certainly. I'd still be at it without your imput though. Cheers.

Well I've finished rewiring the electric fan, which is what I was doing when the starter decided not to work, I've reassembled all the bits and it started first time. So what have I learned. First lesson is that following a logical fault finding proceed sometimes doesn't work. I started by...

I don't know yet! Rained off and lots of reassembly to be done. Odds should be in my favour on the "only one thing goes wrong at a time" principle. I'm an optimist!

Yes I observed the typo - but both of mine have 12 teeth. The connection post on the old starter has pulled out of the casing. A quick look inside shows that it was previously soldered direct to the solenoid coil wire with virually no insulation. I think it is a cheapo Chinky thing but I've...

Thanks SC. I have studied the wiring diagrams and I think a bit of light is shining through; only a bit though. Firstly both the wiring diagrams at ST14 and ST15 seem to indicate that the starter relay is fed from the starter battery and thus will be at 24V when the changeover relay operates...

The story continues! First SC. I can't read my multimeter right! The resistance across the fusible links is .3 ohms. Voltage drop under load is 0v - so I think the links are OK. I followed your advice and paid up as a supporter - been meaning to do this for a while! However I've seached the...

Good morning all, back to the job in hand. SC, I'm a bit surprised that you think there may be another relay. The one I found is marked Starter Relay and actuates when the key is turned to Start. The output from this relay goes to the starter motor and turns it when 12v power is directly...

Thanks SC, I see if I can find the link and PM if I fail. I got 3 or 4 ohms resistance across each of the fusible links and there's no sign of them having been hot. John

Thanks SC, I'd be happy to pay a fee to access the books if I had any idea how to go about it! Yes I've looked at all the fuses under the bonnet and in the block by the steering column; any others I should be looking at? Should there be a fuse on the starter feed as well as the fusible link? John

The story so far. Sunday morning. Try to start the 80. All that can be achieved is 2 or 3 clicks from relays. After some time managed to locate the starter solenoid hiding in the wing; it appears to be making a satisfactory click when it should. There are two connectors, one with thin wires...

Sorry, didn't make that too clear. Auxiliary battery only gets connected to the main batteries when the alternater is charging and activates the voltage sensentive 100amp circuit breaker

I'm still really happy with the Philips LED bulbs. Very expensive. Very Good. No complaints from oncoming drivers!

Just tidying this thread up really. My AGM battery proved to have died of old age so I bought a new Numax leisure and marine 100ah conventional battery. Its wired through a 100amp circuit breaker under the bonnet with 16mm cable to the back where the battery connects with an anderson connector...

Hi guys, I'm on the road in Azerbaijan at the moment and the AC has decided to retire (again!) I am suspecting an electric fault as jumping the compressor produces cold air but I'm having trouble locating the high temperature sensor on the 1hd-t to short it out as the first likely culprit. There...

Spot on Dave. Practical as ever.

Indicator is still working as it should on mine but there is definitely no fancy electronics on mine; just a wire and a bulb!

IIRC the original, pre thixotropic, specified lubricant in the land rover swivel housing was hypoid oil, the same as the diff housing. The arguements in favour of removing the seals that separated them were that the oil splash lubricated the upper swivel bearing which was otherwise prone to...

I think the consensus was that the CVs would be happy and live a long time in hypoid oil. Never tried it myself but used the one shot maintenance free thixotropic lube recommended by Land Rover

I am toying with the idea of using Land Rover one shot swivel housing lubricant. Has anybody tried this? Back when I was an unreconstructed land rover owner a few people took out the inner seals on their swivel housings and shared the CV lubrication with the diff. Any thoughts on this plan?

I'm still very pleased with mine, particually now the pain of paying for them has worn off a bit.

I've been using Philips led bulbs in the OEM lights for a while now. They are not cheap but the beam control is excellent, as is the light output.

I'd say that they have a very good daylight colour. They make the halogens on the inner main beam lights look quite yellow but they certainly are not the harsh blue you get with hids or fashion halogens. And they are 24 watts and come with voltage stabilisers so I've taken off the additional...

Yes, I did them first as a bulb had gone. The Philips side lights are good but probably an unnecessary cost as the beam is hardly critical! I'm still thinking about how to get an LED stop/tail light bulb to fit in the side light to use as a daylight running light. I keep meaning to see if the...

No, they're no more legal than any of the others but the beam pattern is just the same as the originals and the manual height adjuster still works as it should. Just to be sure of not blinding the oncoming traffic I got them set up on a beam setting at the local MOT shop.

I've just fitted a pair of Philips Ultinon H4 LEDs. They are not cheap - to say the least - but they are really well made and the light position is very accurate. And they are very bright.

As part of the ongoing modifications I have fitted an oil pressure warning light, amongst other things, and interlocked it so the engine will stop after 5 seconds if the oil pressure disappears. This has revealed that it takes a bit more than 5 seconds for any measurable oil pressure to build up...

Yes, it's a great trip. We used the Vibraction route and it was excellent and easy to follow. It was summer when we did it and the driving was mostly straightforward in the dry. If you go in the rainy season you will need a good set of mud tyres and carrying recovery kit would be sensible. The...

Don't think so. I don't recall any mention of that when I bought it. What's the difference supposed to be? J

Hi, I've had one on mine for a year or so. They work very well but I was a bit disappointed by the manufacturing quality. One of the leads on the shunt fell off and proved to have been almost severed before being covered by the shrink sleeve. The manufacturer blamed his subcontractor and just...

Very interesting. I'm thinking about do the Vibraction route next summer so please keep writing it up. Also if you're going back perhaps we could make a plan to meet up in 2018. Anyone else interested? J

Hi SC, The problem with old diesels is that they are easy to start. Jumping the fuel solenoid and the starter relay is usually enough and every teenager knows how to do that. Apart from parking at full lock with the steering lock on I really want to do something that makes it a bit difficult and...

Nothing to report yet on the auxiliary battery set up as it has moved to the back burner on the basis it won’t be needed till summer. New (to me!) Lincoln Mark VIII fan arrived from the USA and fitting it has taken precedence. All seems pretty straightforward and the instalation is complete...

Hi, They look nice. The ebay listing seems to imply that they can be adjusted for LHD vehicles. If that is easy enough to do when crossing the channel that would be a real bonus. Please tell us, when you have them fitted, how good they are and if they will change to LHD easily. John

Yes I looked at battery to battery chargers and decided on balance that I didn't want to go that way on two grounds. Firstly good quality ones seemed to me to be quite expensive but mostly because they prevent the use of the starter batteries to support the auxiliary battery. Using a voltage...

Just a final word on this. The last alternator I bought (for the camel trophy land rover many years ago) had a sticker on it warning me to charge the battery before fitting it as charging a flat battery with it would void the warranty. It was explained to me that no alternator was designed to...

I think this has been very interesting and I think we, well Byron and Dave, have answered the question. My summarisation, which someone may wish to amplify is that the wire size (my original question) is a matter of free choice in which there are trade offs. The first constraint is that if the...

Byron, I think I must be missing the point here somewhere. My alternator, in theory at least, will put out 60 amps at 14.4 volts. Any demand in excess of this must come from the starter batteries, which will deliver 12.5v or so. My assumption is that at this point the voltage in the system will...

Byron, I think I must be missing the point here somewhere. My alternator, in theory at least, will put out 60 amps at 14.4 volts. Any demand in excess of this must come from the starter batteries, which will deliver 12.5v or so. My assumption is that at this point the voltage in the system will...

Thanks, Dave and Byron, Actually I have tried, without success, to find out what battery manufacturers think their batteries will draw and have come to the conclusion that there are too many variables for them to give an meaningful answer which protects them from legal action when little wisps...

Hi Guys, Not sure that I am any wiser for all your collective wisdom. Yes I was talking about the main output cable from the alternator which I thought was rather thin; I'm looking for a higher output alternator at the moment (any recommendations?) to go with the Lincoln Mk VIII fan which should...

Hi, Just working out the wiring for an auxiliary battery and the existing wiring on the HDJ80, which looks original and undisturbed has me puzzled. The (surprisingly thin) wire from the alternator appears to run direct to the positive terminal of the near (left) side battery. This is odd...