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My 150 is on a 59 plate but first registered 2010

Many thanks for your comprehensive reply! I’m looking at occasional self-recovery. Fitting is beyond my skill set so I’ll be shopping around for quotes.

Thanks fellas. What are the pro’s & con’s for synthetic ‘v’ steel ropes??

Looking for a ball park figure for a hidden winch and fitting. Cheers

Changed mine at the weekend to Valvolene Synpower 10W40. Its noticeably quieter on start-up. Will monitor over the next few months; I’m changing it every 5K miles.

That I don’t know-mines 2010

Auto Clover Wind Deflector Set for Toyota Land Cruiser 150 2009+ (6 pi - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]

Mine don’t. My 150 is my daily and use the motorway on my commute-no issues

Two related reasons. Its difficult access on challenging, muddy lanes. Secondly, Im considering a 33” equivalent wheel-not sure it would fit.

Ah-make sense! Cheers

Yeah, seen plenty of Oz 150s on YouTube with rear mount. Don’t know why they’re different over here??

Not seen any 150s with a rear mounted spare as standard here in the UK.

Yep

Anybody fitted an appropriate bracket to take the spare? I don’t want the added weight and expense of a dedicated rear bumper mounted version.

Turns out they’re 17mm and the top one was what in weightlifting circles would be called a ‘1 rep max’ to remove! Well it was for me using a 9” ratchet (breaker bar wouldn’t fit and don’t have suitable extensions!). I was able to remove the starter, strip and clean the solenoid which has solved...

All the best for ‘25 fellas. From a new convert, thanks for all the information and advice!

Anyone know what size the heads are on the bolts that mount the starter motor to the bell housing? Ta!

Tbh, neither me or my wife used the steps for getting in or out anyway so they were largely redundant and offered minimal protection.

Before with factory side steps After with N4 sliders

Cheers. Mines not due till around February. Seems a good price too.

Any particular brand, Andy? Fully or semi-synthetic?

Had an interesting discussion about engine oil a little while back with some very experienced LC enthusiasts. The consensus was to ignore the recommended 5w30 for the 150 series 1KD (98,000 miles) and use 10w40 instead for better protection and longevity. Thoughts?

I’m trying to install N4 rock sliders on my 150 and hit a snag. On passenger side rear I need to position a bracket between chassis and fuel tank. But there are 2 brake lines clipped onto top of chassis rail which are in the way. The very unhelpful instructions simply say unclip them but I don’t...

Its a 150. I’ll post pics when fitted-be week or so

Good to know that they produce good quality. I’ve decided on the N4 option. WestCoast have stock so I can take a trip over and pick up at the weekend.

Thanks, Shane. I’ve looked at these but they’re way beyond my limited skill set. I need the convenience (expensive) of bolt on.

In my ongoing search for suitable sliders I’m considering options from these 2 companies. Any reviews/experiences??

Just as a follow-up before I press pay on the sliders, how easy or otherwise is it to remove the factory side-steps? Any special tools involved?

I want to find out what the differences are between my 2010 and the facelift model of 2013. Fabryka manufacture bolt-on rock sliders for the facelift model. The supplier reckons he has had someone fit them successfully to the 2010 model without modification. Before parting with £600 I’d like to...

Don’t know. I’ve only had it since March. Its a 2010 and the current Yuasa batteries have Japanese writing. Surely, they couldn’t be original? I have no mention of batteries in service record/paper work.

Not used a charger before. I use mine as a daily driver and my commute is approx 12 miles but can take up to 45 minutes depending on traffic-will this be enough to charge it or will an occasional trickle charge be beneficial?

Tbh I’m not very familiar with batteries and their workings. I measured the voltage after the car had been sat over night, 12.35. When started the reading was 14.04.

Batteries are reading 12.35 on the multimeter and I’m wondering if they’re on their way out as we approach winter. I believe the advice is to replace both. I’m struggling to find the correct ‘pair’ since the position of the terminals are reversed from driver’s to passenger’s side. Can anyone...

Just an update. I’ve put around 3.5K miles on these now (Falken Wildpeak AT3, 265/65/17), Mainly tarmac including a lot of motorway driving. But also quite a bit of green laning too courtesy of the Jap 4x4 Group including some really challenging routes around Carmarthenshire. Really impressed...

Finally removed the cover, basically stuck on with sealant, revealing a rough cut job. The top and bottom pair of holes are threaded. To be honest I’m still very confused as to what I need in order to fit a 2” receiver hitch/tube. Any advice greatly appreciated!

Still no further in my quest for front recovery points….. Also, now looking at what I believe is called a 2” receiver hitch for the rear. Plan is to use this for recovery and recovering not actually towing on the road so no need for electrics. Any advice on a model which I can fit myself...

Unfortunately, they don’t have stock. The ARB model is available but requires some drilling and cutting to fit which is beyond my skill set! Can’t find any UK manufacturers-money to be made!

Cheers. Going to have a closer look at the fitting instructions before pulling the trigger-I’ve just had a new sump guard fitted.

I want to fit recovery points, any recommendations? Seen these online: Roadsafe Recovery Points Toyota Land Cruiser Prado 150 155 Series 2010-on Rated Pair - 4x4 Works - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]

No mate, came out clean! Crazy to think something as small as this could have caused so much trouble.

Yeah, looks like Aluminium or Chineseum! Certainly too weak and not up to the job. I’ll report back to Roughtrax too.

Just to add, I did remember to inspect the oil pick-up strainer which was clean and shiny. Took a pic but my iphone was struggling to focus.

Relief! Although, drilling out didn’t work, a closer inspection revealed the jagged edge of the broken plug which allowed some purchase with a small screwdriver, allowing me to unscrew and retrieve. As @Towpack pointed out, it was quite loose and came free easily, thankyou for your advise! I...

I’m a bit limited in tools and know-how! How small a drill bit? Haven’t got a LH bit unfortunately. Many thanks!

Just doing a routine oil change, decided to replace the sump plug with a magnetic one from Roughtrax. Not even at torque and its broken off in the sump! Wtf do I do??