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P.S. Are the front axle mounting bushes OK?

An in cabin video might help. I would quadruple check that the rear shoes are backing right off when hand brake is off. What was the very last work done before the problem occurred?

I rebuild 100 year + clock movements. I get people ask if I can have a quick look at their clock which has stopped. Usually because it has never been cleaned. I now refuse. Also, can you have a quick look at my leaking tap. Simple, not really, because every plumbing connection will shear. I refuse.

Years ago I needed a plate in France. Simply went to nearest garage and they printed one off. Perhaps easier to get one abroad. More regs now though I expect.

If the prop splines have been separated it could be the phasing is out. I assume it's not wheel balance?

The blind would cause big resistance in water.

Definitely. Looks like the crank is scrap and perhaps the rod if that has been blued or rubbed. Easiest would be to swap the engine but there is a risk that the engine may be faulty. It's a big job to rebuild. The 12 valve engines were renowned for big end failure.

Everything down there is too heavy to concentrate and do an accurate job on. Also you would have to take the gearbox off to take off the clutch. I would take the head off to see if anything is damaged inside. At least check the valves assembly on number 5 to make sure there is no damage. Might...

That happened to me with a Morris Minor which had a two bladed metal fan. Revving the pants of it racing my friend and there was a terrible bang and a hole appeared in the bonnet. I lost. Terrible vibration until I broke the other blade off and limped home. I had often been under bonnet revving...

Sticking brake shoes on the rear maybe your problem. Terrible juddering. I would slacken them off and remove the drums to make sure the adjusters are not seized and that the shoes are able to go right back. (ie. Pull off the brake drum when the handbrake is released).

And Valium. (Diazepam).

I got a solid stainless steel kitchen knife and hammered it into the gap at right angles. Then I used the hammer to hammer it round the sump thus cutting through the sealer. Of course other implements are available.

Toyota ones are safest but probably most expensive. In my life pattern parts are a NO NO. Been there, done it. I assume you don't want a repeat performance.

Back in the day they used to plaster the leaf springs with grease then cover them with purpose built leathers. Are you going to box the spring hangers, they look a bit weak sideways. Nice looking job and goes well with LC.

Contact "The Car Care Nut". He's on utube. He's ex Toyota and now self employed just working Toyotas. He'll soon tell you whether it's worth changing the head gaskets. I think on the later V8's the heads warp. I think the heads warp leading to leaking gaskets. He has piles of old head gaskets...

There was a little peg inside both mine that had broken off. A little drill and new peg fixed it for good. From memory there is an access hole in the bottom of the housing to remove a screw.

Easiest approach, though not that easy, is to take off the sump and check the play in the bottom ends of the connecting rods. If it is a worn bearing with that amount of noise play will be very noticeable. First drain the oil and check for metal swarf. But sump has to come off whatever.

The non return valve requires "power" to open it. If the spring inside is too strong it may not be letting enough fuel through.

Sounds like it's on one cylinder only. Sounds exactly like a bad big end knock or broken piston. Possibly piston hitting valves/cylinder head as well.

The lift "pump" in the injector pump is fed by atmospheric pressure, (it sucks), roughly 14 psi which would force diesel up to 40 ft? so I guess a NRV would only be necessary to avoid fuel draining back to the tank in the event of an air leak. Nothing to lose by keeping it in. With the LC...

Simple electrics compared with a 2025 car no no death in our cases.

Cars used to be scraped because of too much expensive rust problems. Now it's electrical death.

That is the Scorpion alarm fob. The alarm and immobiliser were factory fitted using a manual supplied with the parts from Scorpion. I have the same system on my '95 and it has been 100% reliable. Disable Alarm :- Unplug 918T box ( located behind and high up of the glove box ) Join the...

Post a picture of the fob. If Scorpion I think I know how to bypass it. OK it's been "disconnected" but it might be worth a try.

I think to degrease the threads on stud and hub really well is important and then wind in tight with double nut on the outer end. i don't think the Toyota build has anything in addition to this.

Where is the exhaust outlet for the vacuum system?

I expect they are paying for flood damage as putting household premiums up in flood risk areas is socially unacceptable.

Started to hear a mechanical clatter from front of engine a few years ago. Now much worse in cold weather. Started engine today to investigate and it sounded like the noise was coming fro the AC pump or inside timing cover. I noticed that there was play in the loose run of the ac belt. Jerky...

Disconnect the batteries first.

Yes Shayne, something to soak into the cracks.

Head gasket sounds quite important. Is it diesel or petrol. I assume petrol as in USA.

Have a look in the cars computer. You might be able to clear such code after the filter has been replaced. If you have a touch screen on the dash it might be accessed there.

I bought a new petrol Golf 10 years ago. When covered in ice I used to let it idle on the drive whilst I had tea. This took 20 mins to thaw it out. Now I get in, start engine, and run it straight up to 3,000 rpm and it thaws in 2 1/2 mins. I've always had a difficult relationship with sanity.

"Stone Chip" is probo the best. Used on sills before painting the top coat. Even new cars have it. You will need a compressor etc though. I used it on my railing posts before they went into wet concrete 30 years ago. Still rubbery and no rust creeping up from the ground.

I thought you had rolled it.

When water gets trapped by capillary action rust will set in as in powder coating rust.

If you have a genuine OEM alternator they are VERY well made and designed and easy to work on. I stripped mine right down and reassembled it just for maintenance. You might need a camera or mark certain items, can't remember exactly. No special tools or soldering iron required.

They only sold one turbo Shayne. lol.

I don't know what your Milner cylinder is like but the steering damper/shock absorber they supplied to me was about as strong as a bicycle pump. Their online picture of said item showed an OEM one !! Also it was too short so when on full lock was likely to be torn apart or crushed. If you have...

Your brake failure is 99% caused by faulty master cylinder.

Can you present your car in low range for MOT. It does not have ABS in that mode?

Rebel rebel, You've torn your dress. Now your turning off all those anti pollution and safety devices. Glad we live in a free society.

I assume one has to disconnect any security system before installing as their contacts are common in some areas.

Hence the need for a fool proof light.:).

Light has settled down now. Goes off after 2 minutes running and stays off until engine cold. On Utube I saw a ruined, quite modern, Bentley engine which had run dry of coolant and seized. The plastic inlet pipe to the rad had broken. The broken part was still in the now disconnected top...

GOK, can you describe this magic path to delete the adverts on my latest edition of windows?

Russians.

That's a good idea, driving the car sitting on a seat with toilet facility. No need to stop now. It could all go down the exhaust pipe.

Parts prices as well!! My friends son has an old Aston Martin Vanquish. Failed MOT for a faulty rear tail light. £3,100 + VAT not fitted. Dread to think what a current model price would be.