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WOW I'd totally have this off ya if I had a way of shipping them to the states. My front seats are a little worn as I approach 270k miles.

Which filters exactly have you replaced?

What makes you think the oil pump will be damaged? It was not driven a lot once the odd noise came about, even though it would drive just fine. Gears all shifted fine, ect. And I already have a separate trans cooler bypassing the main radiator. Since doing that I never saw the AT light come back...

As above, looking for a torque converter for my cruiser. Anyone got one hanging about?

Well engine is out. Something is definitely loose inside the torque converter, and I found what most likely caused the problem. The transmission oil pump seal failed and it started dumping ATF out. Most likely occurred in the last few weeks but we've had a lot of rain and I think it washed a...

Would a bad bearing sound like a loose bolt being chucked around/grinded? @karl webster could be interested. Do you know of a courier/shipping service that would sent to Florida, US? Would probably need to be on a pallet.

Update, checked the inspection hole underneath and don't see any signs of cracking or anything strange. I would have thought if it was the flex plate, it would occur whenever the engine is running, where as I am only getting the noise when in R or D. Also have a little bit of a shudder I picked...

Hey guys, need some help. Don't often have trans issues so I'm not a pro but today I noticed the a pretty bad grinding/clanking noise coming from the bell housing area when I'm in Drive or reverse, with my foot on the break. When moving I don't really hear much but that could be because of...

This stuff is so political. Here in the states, Gas boilers are now becoming popular, alongside diesel cars. It's like they just move from one market to another and flip flop whenever it suits them!

The brand I have is spidertrax, but I don't think they're in the UK. Look them up and maybe they can ship them out. Those Eibach ones appear hubcentric IF they look like what the photo shows.

damn that thing is basically new with those miles. What kind of mods are you looking for?

We have what's known as "Rapid Tests" over here in the states that get results within 15 minutes. Only downside is that they have less of these tests to go about compared with the typical test.

Have you removed all the bellhousing bolts? It's not a struggle removing this engine from the bay. There's plenty of space to wiggle things out. Not quite sure how you're struggling with it but pictures speak a thousand words if you want to upload some.

Lovely family Ben. Happy New Year

Does sound somewhat electrical. Have you checked all the connections going to the trans? There is a major earth wire that earths around the engine oil filter housing. check that one and the general ones. Sometimes when hot, resistance can cause electrical problems to worsen. There's also the...

240,000 miles on my 2UZ here in the states. Well built but I wish the thing had some more oomfff.

I used a 3rd gen 4runner/surf fuel tank and it fit snug under the left side of the chassis. Later found out it's the same tank used in places like AUS where it came like that stock.

People in the states are well aware of this problem as the 3rd generation toyota 4runner and 1st gen Tundra and tacoma share the same front IFS. They also sold a lot of these trucks here and with the miles people in the US drive, and lack of any a MOT equivalent it's a common failure if you...

Wow! Buy yourself a lottery ticket Bob! I'm assuming those are the originals at 350,000 miles? If so, I'd say you were pushing it. When last have you actually checked play in them? I replaced mine at 250,000 miles with a miniscule amount of play. More for peace of mind than anything else.

If its happening on rough terrain it indicates a possible loose connection somewhere which is ultimately turning the engine off. So I'd start with all connection points, ground points ect and take it from there. Check plugs behind ECU, your ignition wiress, injection pump plugs. Could be a...

Stick the front up in the air and spin a wheel. Do the same in the rear too and listen to the diffs. If not that, then move on next to the trans. If it still moves, then CV's must be fine.

The boxes are pretty stout, I wouldn't worry about it. Just change the fluid more regularly going forward

What is this carburetor you speak of?

@Bob best to order new camber bolts if you think yours will be seized. I went with Whiteline bushing which so far have held up good.

Dare I say, what about an electric thing?

3 miles isn't really good for any car, but I'd think a petrol will take it better.

Looks like the snap ring holding in the CV came off. Normally that happens if it wasn't sized right to begin with, or could have been worn over time. 45 seems cheap. You sure they replaced it, or just slotted it back in with a new snap ring?

I run some H4 LED lights and they're fantastic. I had 55w HID's before and they were great too, but the LED's have a much better cut.

If you put two layers of 5% tint you won't be able to see through no matter the light or how close up you are. Cheap, and if you're handy relatively easy to install too. Plus tint holds up pretty well long term. Not sure how paint would be in the long run

So when hot, if he was to turn it off, and attempt to restart it instantly, will it? If not, I think this would eliminate fuel issues. Also what if his suction control valve is on the way out and not performing right when hot? I know resistance changes with temp? Maybe pour some cold water...

You're partially right in that A level qualification doesn't necessary mean a lot, but it does prove to Universities and even employees that you worked hard to get those grades. A lot of students have the potential to make the grades, but poor choices and laziness turn those A's to C's. Now...

It's well worth seeing what the EGT's and boost levels are at under load. It would give you a good indication of the engines performance. I think on your engine, you should be able to use one of those cheap bluetooth OBD readers? That would give you boost but not sure if those engines have EGT...

That soot on the turbo is probably from running rich from little to no boost however long this problem has been around. That truck will wake up after you fix the waste gate. Not sure how you drove with it that bad to be honest.

You might stick the new actuator on and not have to worry about replacing the turbo. Plus you might be getting rid of a good OEM turbo for a cheap ebay one that may not last.

At least you have space to work on this. I've removed a 2.0 VW tdi turbo and that was a pain. I can't imagine doing that job and stripping a bolt. It would turn into a engine out job at that point.

If it's easier for you, you could buy a cheap gauge that reads up to 15 psi and T into any manifold connection and plumb it into the cab temporarily. You most likely have a MAP sensor you could use. Then take it for a drive ad you'll be able to tell what it's doing. I'm not sure about these...

So if it's stuck shut, it won't bleed off pressure which would lead to an over boosting situation. I don't know what the limit is on your engine, but lets say it's 14 psi. Once the ECU see's that it will cut fueling and limit power. This normally throws a code. Power will be pretty bad, but...

Yeah, I'd firstly check boost levels to see where you're at. It could well be something else. If it has a MAP sensor, check that and the lines that run to it. If it's not telling the ECU it's boosting, it will not add fuel. Are you getting any CEL thrown?

It'll just return your power to original spec depending how bad it is

When last was the belt replaced?

Having removed mine at about 150,000 miles, now at 250,000, the intake manifold has remained soot free. A little dust of oil that can be wiped clean with a finger is now all that appears. And if I was OCD about that oil mist, I'd install a better catch can.

Thanks and yes the mud forum is pretty helpful for 100 series stuff. @uHu With replacing the CV Shaft and drive flange, would I expect the gap to be original for the snap ring? I had planned on re-using whatever is on there. If not, I guess I should order some and be prepared.

Since purchasing a high millage 100 series, I'm trying to get it to a nice healthy spec. I have the typical R to D clunk and upon further notice, I have notiable rottational play in the CV's where they enter the flange. I won't be able to see if it's the CV or flange that is worn but my guess...

I replaced mine with a slightly longer hose as I found the original one is short and as mentioned above, ends up dripping into the tray and making a mess as you drive off. Pretty clever though, saves oil getting all over the place.

Not quite sure what part you're referring to?

Your amazon link appears to be correct too.

https://www.srqfabrications.com/product/96-02-4runner96-04-tacoma-spc-upper-control-arms

Popular engine for diesel swaps in the states, but it seems people do it more for off road use or just as a toy. For those who want to simply cruise down the road and still daily, the general census seems these engines are too agricultural and rough for that. Some can live with it, some cant...

Sounds like the LC is giving you a signal to drive it more. Jokes aside, not sure what it could be. A bad relay sounds possible