97 KZJ95 3.0 TD Colorado - Fuel Cut Off Solenoid Valve not functioning

[VirginiaColorado]

Will check it out. Thanks again.

 

[VirginiaColorado]

If injectors are spitting fuel , compression is good , and your air intake not blocked . Then the only thing that i can imagine would prevent the truck from starting is the immobilizer security .

Search the forum for TVSS i think its called and you might find a way to reset it .

The forums search function is not great , Personally i find it much quicker to type into google search landcruiserclub.net TVSS Aftasdf\

After additional troubleshooting, the mechanics think it might be the ECU. They're going to retest today. Several months ago I replaced the ignition cylinder and switch. I've read about the keys being tied to the ECU, but I'm fairly certain that I don't have keys that have a transponder in them. How would I know? I also don't believe I have a VSS, no key fob. Again, how would I know? Thanks!

 

[Shayne]

I know bugger all about the security but I think central locking has been a standard feature since before the 90 series and its paired with its own ecu , i think ?.

My 97 KZJ90 came with a separate fob and the Mrs 2001 KDJ90 has buttons on the key .

I'm guessing and trying to remember past events , but I think only the original master key doesn't trigger the alarm when the fob battery is dead .

There is a process on here somewhere for programming replacement keys though i don't know what it is - turn key in door 5 times then 20 times in ignition - along those lines no geek stuff .

 

[Shayne]

Found a pic of my keys while searching the forum for clues

Though I've never had to mess with mine I've seen the security module but can't think where , in the dash behind radio possibly . That said I've seen everything behind the dash while searching for an unrelated problem so it could be behind the glove compartment ?

 

[Shayne]

I've got an '02 Colie D4D LWB version and had to do this some time back. There is two sets of programming: 1- Programming the key buttons (lock/unlock) and 2- Programming the immobilizer

I could'nt get a key with the right shaped blade and since my only original was already bent I ordered one from MrT (£160) and programmed it myself... Wel got it working perfectly after the fith attempt...

This worked for my (KDJ95)
TO PROGRAM THE IMMOBILIZER (Do this first)
1.) All doors closed - no key in ignition
2.) Insert MASTER key
3.) Turn key from LOCK to ON five times (x5 and end on ON)
4.) Open & close the driver's door six times (x6)
5.) Remove Master key
6.) Insert New key and wait 60-70 seconds
7.) Remove New key
8.) Open & Close driver's door to End

TO PROGRAM THE LOCK/UNLOCK /PANIC BUTTONS:

1.) Turn Key off..remove key from switch and open drivers door.

2.) Insert key into ignition switch and remove (don't turn it)

3.) Lock & unlock power door locks from drivers door switch 5 times @ 1 second intervals.

4.) close & open drivers door

5.) Lock & unlock power door locks from drivers door switch 5 times @ 1 second intervals

6.) Insert Key into ignition switch and turn from lock to on twice and remove key

7.) Door Locks will cycle automatically from lock to unlock twice to confirm program mode has been entered.

8.) Take the original remote, BRIEFLY press the unlock and lock buttons simultaniously... and release...then press the lock button and release...If successful the system will cycle the locks from lock to unlock... (Repeat step 8.) for replacement key)

Important-You need to repeat step 8 for each remote you want programmed..when all your remotes are programmed moved to step 9

9.) Insert ignition key and remove to exit programming mode..

 

[VirginiaColorado]

Found a pic of my keys while searching the forum for clues

View attachment 337323

Though I've never had to mess with mine I've seen the security module but can't think where , in the dash behind radio possibly . That said I've seen everything behind the dash while searching for an unrelated problem so it could be behind the glove compartment ?

Thanks Shayne. Latest report back from the mechanics is that they believe the ECU needs to be replaced. Or should we try to reprogram the keys? I'll pickup this on the next response... which provides those instructions.

 

[VirginiaColorado]

Should I try this? Replacing the ECU seems like a big project, but that's what they are recommending.

 

[Shayne]

Electrics are not my thing at all I'd just like to see you get going .

Years ago when the mrs lost her Rover keys a mobile locksmith offered to bypass the central locking so it could only be opened with the start key . Similar era so I wonder if you could find someone to do the same ?

 

[VirginiaColorado]

There's another mechanic in the area that focuses on "imports" like this, I may chat with them. I don't know of anyone of hand that can do what you are suggesting. Will have to ponder more. But, I do think replacing the ECU is a can of worms that might not be the best path.

 

[Shayne]

Around here most garages pull in a freelance auto electrician when things get complicated and thats what you should be looking for rather than a mechanic i think .

 

[VirginiaColorado]

Pursuing that now. I haven't been able to tap into a local club as of yet.

Around here most garages pull in a freelance auto electrician when things get complicated and thats what you should be looking for rather than a mechanic i think .

 

[Shayne]

The 90 series is very similar to the early 4runner America got I believe which might lead you to someone who can help

 

[VirginiaColorado]

There are a couple of LC clubs in the Washington DC metro area, just not sure how active they are. Whenever I see a LC, especially if it's around the ago of mine, I usually leave a note on the car. Sometimes people respond. Sometimes they think they're being stalked.

 

[Shayne]

I dont have facebook but a quick google search gave me this Bei Facebook anmelden - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]

 

[VirginiaColorado]

I dont have facebook but a quick google search gave me this Bei Facebook anmelden - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]

Thanks for the link. Unfortunately, that's Washington state, not Washington, District of Columbia.

I'm going to close out this thread and start a new one, focusing on the ECU. I had a conversation with the mechanic yesterday and they said they were uncertain if it was in fact the ECU. Because there are so few of these vehicles locally, there aren't alot of folks who have experience with this. So, going to spread a wider net. Someone on this forum said there was a facebook group for Colorados, going to look that up too.

 

[jordan_sorabjee]

Hi All. Looking for some thoughts before i start to fiddle too much. In short my prado is pretty down on power. Fine when I'm around 2k RPM but totally gutless at the bottom end. This is an issue that started in the last few months shortly after putting in a new TCV. The issue was so bad that I was getting clutch judder when pulling off. This was resolved by turning up the fuel on the SPV. The clutch issue has gone but it's still pretty weak at the bottom end, way worse than it used to be. I'm sure it's a fuel issue because my fuel economy has also improved along with the poor performance. My issue is that I think I just need to turn the fuel up some more. I have done this, still no smoke at all, but as I try to raise the fuel the idle starts to hunt, suggesting I've turned it up too high. Any ideas? It almost feels like the pump lacks pressure at the bottom end. Other things I've already done:
Fuel filter
Cleaned the filter under the SPV
Checked for air leaks in fuel
Cleaned the tank breather
Checked the resistors
Checked the throttle control valve
Checked and replaced all vac hoses and checked for leaks in the filters
New TCV
New head and gasket

Also the SPV is quite new, bought it about 2 years ago new.

Should I just ignore the rough idle and crank the fuel up until it just start to smoke under heavy acceleration?

 

[Shayne]

2k rpm your turbo is spooling and it runs fine which suggests to me your problem is lack of air . Fuel can't burn without air .

 

[jordan_sorabjee]

Hi Shayne. I gave the air filter a good blow out and the intake manifold is very clean. I haven't checked the turbo actuator yet or waste gate so I could look at those. But with a lack of air shouldn't I be guffing smoke?

Interestingly out of frustration today I turned the fuel right up. Still no smoke but it was like a new car. Very quick off the mark and plenty of low end power. Thqt was Until I nearly had a runaway engine... turned it back down problem persist.

 

[Shayne]

When your messing turning up fuel I think your just being to heavy handed . Turn it anti clockwise all the way and your truck will still drive albeit very down on power . Turn it up just a fraction and go for another test drive - it will improve . Do it again and again until you you feel no improvement with the last fractional turn so turn it back .

 

[jordan_sorabjee]

I don't want to speak too soon but you may have been right. This morning I turned the fuel back up. But by only about 1/16th of a turn. Seems to have sorted the issue. Idle is smooth, car has good enough low end power and I must have just been either just short of the sweet spot or going way over. I didn't think these SPVs would be that sensitive. My last one certainly was a lot more even in the adjustments, and i knew I was getting close to over fueling by the stream of black smoke behind me. Even yesterday when I nearly had a runaway, it still didn't have any smoke in the rear view. Anyway, for now it seems pretty good so thanks Shayne.