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1997 KZ-J95 Colorado 1KZ-TE 3.0 TD still won't start

Have you checked the fuel filter housing? I think there is a rubber diaphragm in there that perishes and lets air into the system.
 
Thanks for responding. I have not checked that. Would I have to take the fuel pump apart to check this? Any specifics you can provide would help, I'm no mechanic, but willing to try most anything at this point.
 
What does your key look like, is it immobilised? (it's right on the change over).

Is the key surround a black plastic, or is it a light, and does your dash have a security symbol on it? (looks like a red car and key that flashes)

Sounds a lot like the immobiliser is playing up
 
Hello! Thanks for the response. I agree that it seems like the immobilizer. I'm away from home, so don't have my key with me, so from memory. If you are asking if it has buttons on it, it does not. The key surround is black plastic, but it has two wires attached to it. There is no security symbol on the dash. Does that help?
 
My 1996 90 series has a fob on key chain and my 2001 90 series has buttons on the key itself as original I believe

1730143476876.jpeg
 
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Central locking is standard on all 90 series I thought ?

Both mine are UK spec so i guess different countries might have got different keys , but if you can find t there is on the forum somewhere instructions on how to reprogram a new or used fob to your trucks security system . Something to do with turning the lock 6 times this way and 4 times that if I recall but maybe not because it was posted years ago .
 
Shayne said:
Central locking is standard on all 90 series I thought ?

Both mine are UK spec so i guess different countries might have got different keys , but if you can find t there is on the forum somewhere instructions on how to reprogram a new or used fob to your trucks security system . Something to do with turning the lock 6 times this way and 4 times that if I recall but maybe not because it was posted years ago .
Click to expand...
You sent this to me. Mine is a UK spec, imported here to the US. I haven't tried this, but sent to my mechanics months ago. I'll try again soon. Do you think I should just try it with my master key?


TO PROGRAM THE IMMOBILIZER (Do this first)
1.) All doors closed - no key in ignition
2.) Insert MASTER key
3.) Turn key from LOCK to ON five times (x5 and end on ON)
4.) Open & close the driver's door six times (x6)
5.) Remove Master key
6.) Insert New key and wait 60-70 seconds
7.) Remove New key
8.) Open & Close driver's door to End
 
I would assume it only works with a genuine Toyota fob ?
 
Hey there, I am new to the Toyota world and this forum.
I know on a basic level diesels have a hard time working air out of their systems. If fuel isn't getting to the injectors, I would try cracking the hard lines loose at the injectors then cranking the engine. It'll be a bit messy if you get them to spray fuel out, but if they do then you know that fuel has made its way there. Re-tighten the lines and see if that will get it going.

We had a non-turbo diesel tug at my last shop that would get air into the common rail if it sat more than a day and this is how we got it running. Hope that helps, and hope you get it back on the road soon.
 
Thanks for the suggestion. I can give that a try once I get back home, traveling now. I'm a bit of a novice, but I believe I understand what you are suggesting. Let me see if I can find a picture and highlight. I see you are in TN? That's closer than most of the folks on this forum!
 
thatheathguy said:
Hey there, I am new to the Toyota world and this forum.
I know on a basic level diesels have a hard time working air out of their systems. If fuel isn't getting to the injectors, I would try cracking the hard lines loose at the injectors then cranking the engine. It'll be a bit messy if you get them to spray fuel out, but if they do then you know that fuel has made its way there. Re-tighten the lines and see if that will get it going.

We had a non-turbo diesel tug at my last shop that would get air into the common rail if it sat more than a day and this is how we got it running. Hope that helps, and hope you get it back on the road soon.
Click to expand...
Are you talking about loosening here? I know there are other places, just using this as illustration.

Screenshot 2024-11-13 at 1.46.36 PM.png
 
Loosening those very pipes is how you tell fuel is not getting to injectors which is something you stated earlier in the thread i think ?
 
Shayne said:
Loosening those very pipes is how you tell fuel is not getting to injectors which is something you stated earlier in the thread i think ?
Click to expand...
Indeed, that is what the mechanics have said in the past... Trying to do too many things at the same time. Sometimes, I forget what I've reported here! Thanks Shayne.
 
The mechanics of it are really quite simple so in my mind its either the fuel pump is buggered which has never been heard of , or its an electronic issue and I'm reasonably confident all 90 series came equipped with an immobilizer which I must assume works by shutting fuel off .

I hate electrickery but if I were you I'd start researching 90 series TVSS .
 
Shayne said:
The mechanics of it are really quite simple so in my mind its either the fuel pump is buggered which has never been heard of , or its an electronic issue and I'm reasonably confident all 90 series came equipped with an immobilizer which I must assume works by shutting fuel off .

I hate electrickery but if I were you I'd start researching 90 series TVSS .
Click to expand...
I think it's electric too, and I'm tired of trying to figure it out, and tired of spending money on it. I'm probably just going to sell it as is and see what I can recover from it.
 
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