Advice as my LC is absolutely not starting!

[jocky]

Hello I'm a newbie.
I have a 97 3.0 TD manual Colorado, which won't start.
I've just bought it and it was running well.
It wouldn't start last night and it wasn't like normal, when you can try a few times and it just won't fire. This time it briefly made a noise and then nothing. Initially I thought it must be the batteries as they are mismatched and one looks pretty ropey. So I took it out swapped things over and still nothing. Checked online and realized I need both batteries in for it to go at all, doubled checked still nothing! So I gave up and went to bed.
This morning I woke up convinced I'd need to replace one or both batteries (ouch), but I checked them and they both seemed to have a good charge over 12.5v.
So I had a look at the fuse box as I am getting no lights in the cab, apart from the door open one. Anyway I discovered the blue 100 amp fuse to the Alt(ernator?) had blown and wouldn't come out (neither would any of the neighboring ones either?). When the fuse was bridged with a spanner I got all lights on electrics in the cab, but when I tried to start it all I got was a click click click.

So my questions are:

What is that blue 100 amp fuse called and where can I get them? (As Roughtrax only had an 80 amp when I phoned.)

Does it sound like when I get a fuse, my starter motor is really going to turn out to be the problem?

If so is there any way to get it going without having to bite the bullet and buying a new one? (or a second hand one?)

I've just bought a service kit, and a cambelt kit and a few other parts, so having to buy a starter motor as well will be painful!!
But on the upside when it was running I was loving it!!

Thanks,
jocky

 

[tim falce]

Did the engine spin over or was it very sluggish or not turning at all? Just because you have 12.5 volts at the terminals doesn't mean they are any good, it's all down to the amperage they're producing. I don't think you need both batteries, mine only has one but it's a lot bigger than the cars with two batteries. Check the terminals are tight and clean, also clean the tops of the batteries and then fully charge both of them, also replace the fuses that are blown and take it from there. I would think the starter is way down the list of things to worry about at the moment. First port of call will be the batteries

 

[jocky]

Hi Tim
No the engine isn't turning over at all, just making a clicking sound like the starter motor is being as to do something it is no longer capable of. I fully charged the batteries before I put them back in, one I'm fairly confident about a Bosch S4026, the other a black nameless lump I was convinced was the problem but it seems to be functioning. I did clean up the terminals and battery tops too, so no I need to find out where to get the bust fuse, and then work out how to dismantle the fuse box to get the broken one out!

 

[jocky]

Just found this thread so maybe there is hope. I don't know how to link to it though.
[h=2]The Cruiser won't start "CLICK"[/h]

 

[BobMurphy]

What is that blue 100 amp fuse called and where can I get them? (As Roughtrax only had an 80 amp when I phoned.)

Does it sound like when I get a fuse, my starter motor is really going to turn out to be the problem?

Looking at the Wiring Diagram the 100A fuse is shown as the "Alternator Fuse". Without it, you won't get much power to anything else and your batteries won't be getting charged.

The starter motor's main power lead isn't fused.

The energising coil-side of the starter relay is fused, but it doesn't go through the 100A fuse.

The contacts in the Starter Relay that power the Starter Solenoid on the Starter Motor are fused and that circuit does go through the 100A fuse.

However, if you have been bridging the 100A fuse contacts with a spanner all this is irrelevant - it should have worked.

It sounds as though your batteries are suspect and they should be charged and checked with a High Rate Discharge Tester to see if they still have the capacity to churn the starter motor. Voltage on its own isn't the full story.

When starting - do you depress the clutch to prevent the starter motor having to turn the gearbox ??

One final test - Check that the starter motor is bolted tight to the motor and that the motor is earthed to the chassis/body. Its the earths that provide the return circuit for the 2.5 (ish) HP that the batteries are providing to the starter.

It sounds as thought the electrical side needs a bit of a tidy-up .

Bob.

 

[MODVRS]

I think the starter solenoid contacts are worth investigating. Worn, pitted contacts were the cause of mine clicking when trying to start. Replacements were £15 in UK and it has never clicked since.

 

[MODVRS]

Shiny, new contacts look like this.

 

[chadr]

Have to agree with the above - I had the exact same symptoms a few years back. Battery was 100% but still got the "clicking" intermittently.

Changed the starter solenoid contacts (and plunger from memory) and all has been fine since.

Pretty cheap fix but getting access to starter and certainly getting it out can be a real PITA.

 

[jocky]

Thanks guys, That definitely sounds like I've got a few things to check before dumping my starter motor! Very much appreciated!
Could you tell me where you bought the parts you mentioned? Was it online, a local motor factor or genuine parts direct from Toyota.
Any ideas what that type of blue fuse is called, as I can't seem to find an exact match anywhere. Similar ones on ebay but the seem to be very slightly different dimensions to the one I half took out!
Thanks again,
jocky

 

[jocky]

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191194887743

These ones??

 

[MODVRS]

Don't know about the fuses. I got my starter solenoid parts from www.repairkitsuk.com in Cannock, UK. They just need the 10 digit code painted on the starter motor.

 

[chadr]

Got mine from our forum friendly Toyota parts dealer - Simon Holton.

All the bits came to about £15 in total; the 3.0TD starter maybe different to the 3.4V6 petrol's - although I doubt there will be a huge difference in part's prices.