Alarm system suggestions

[Matt Wright]

Hi guys
I would like to fit an alarm system to my cruiser and would like to know if you guys have any suggestions on brand etc.

They're cheap as chips on eBay, local uk stock so I'm thinking about going that option. Not bad for £40 odd

Open to all ideas, especially if someone's fitted one recently

Thanks

 

[Gary Stockton]

No idea as to brand etc. Matt - but you may want to see if your insurer has any preference, especially if they'll give you a rebate for it?

Cheers

 

[SimonD]

I like the look of this system http://www.datatag.co.uk/4x4.php . RFID solutions are useful deterrents. This is expensive http://skytag-gps.co.uk/ but depends on how much anybody values their vehicle ending up in Africa without them in it. Both are "after the event" but still useful if you want to get the truck back.

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

I have the same question but I'm not convinced a well hidden kill 'switch' isn't just as effective as a typical commercial job so all I might want is remote lock/unlock like Ian had fitted to the red car? Does any one take any notice of alarms going off?

I was impressed with how long it took to get Jonnie's truck going when he lost his keys though so I would consider spending a decent amount for a system like that if anyone knows what it was? IIRC that had security plates over the injection pump fuel cut off solenoid so you couldn't just put 12v to the solenoid and be off.

 

[Gav Peter]

I was impressed with how long it took to get Jonnie's truck going when he lost his keys though.

I wasn't... It was bloomin' freezing standing around waiting for it to get going!!!

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

it was quite effective though

 

[Matt Wright]

Ha ha
I agree about nobody listening to sirens - that's just part of the alarm it seems. They're so cheap from what I've seen

My primary objective is for the vehicle to be immobilised ie the fuel cut off relay so thanks for stating that. I'll have another look through them as there are some that have that.

I have a gps tracker fitted (currently in its box! Just need a sim card to test but looks very good. Working on making a voltage step down from 12 to 5 with crispins help so it can be permantly connected plus charge the battery so it will track for 3 days without power..

I'll let you know my short list for interest. On holiday till Monday so more next week

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

My primary objective is for the vehicle to be immobilised ie the fuel cut off relay so thanks for stating that.

Trouble is that anyone who knows these trucks can bypass a typical immobiliser in about 30 seconds or less. What was special about Jonnie's was a security plate preventing direct access to the fuel solenoid and possibly other tricks I didn't see. Just preventing access to the fuel solenoid would slow things down but they still only need to put 12v on that wire elsewhere and they're good to go. Ideally you'd have a small microprocessor under the security plate controlling the feed to the fuel solenoid so that simply connecting 12v further up the wire still wouldn't make it go without authorisation, probably via another wire as a serial link which the thief isn't going to know how to trick.

Have I got that right Karl about what made it difficult to get Jonnie's going?

I'll let you know my short list for interest. On holiday till Monday so more next week

Short list would be good but I might go home grown for the immobiliser part unless we can find out what Jonnie had fitted and where to get one.

 

[Julian Voelcker]

Just preventing access to the fuel solenoid would slow things down but they still only need to put 12v on that wire elsewhere and they're good to go.

I can't remember which truck it was on, but there is a cover on some stop solenoids held in place with security bolts (that snap off) that has it's own wiring controlled by the alarm so powering the stop solenoid on it's own had no effect.

I think it was on either a 100 or a 24valve 80.

The bolts needed to be drilled out in order to be removed - we partly drilled and used stud extractors to get them out and then a hex key hammered in to tighten then up again afterwards - the sort of thing that is easy to do on the bench, not on the side of the road or in a car park.

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

That's the kind of thing Jonnie had on his 24v manual 80. He lost his keys in the snow and had us all standing around in the cold for hours waiting while Dave and Karl hot wired it I want one of those, either home made or commercial because it's less likely to go wrong.

 

[Matt Wright]

Ok, so plan B. Just fit a remote door unlocking system for now!

I got this for a whopping £20 delivered. It looks pretty good for the cost and the fobs are really good - the same as the VW Golf ones - key / fob combo. I have checked and the LC key design can be cut in to the generic blades supplied or you can retro fit LC blades to the fobs..
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251025698880?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Trouble is fitting a universal device isn't always straightforward as I am re-re-discovering.

I read the FSM section on the Power Door locking system (BE-83) and have boiled it down to intercepting the Door lock control box, located in the drivers door and putting the device's wiring harness in between the control box. I've traced positive and negative and the device powers on but what's missing it connecting the other wires to the doors. It rained constantly so I couldn't open the door much and eventually gave up and worked on other things!

The instructions look like this :

I found a few sites with help but they're all for VW's or other cars - has anyone fitted something like this before?

The best site I found was this which is the same unit and same wiring diagram..
https://sites.google.com/site/stoyn...yless-central-locking-system-in-a-b3b4-passat

Any help (and amused smiles) welcome

I'll give it a good try tomorrow if the rain stops!

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

Be interested to hear how you get on Matt. I haven't done much more about this than find this on ebay for if I go that route.

 

[Garry]

Hi Matt

Call me .
Fitted a cobra system to 97 petrol 80 .
Central door locking is negative triggered , wires can be found in drivers foot well in multi block.

Regards
Garry

 

[Matt Wright]

Thanks a ton Garry - will call tomorrow..

I triple checked the keys and they are a great match. Yes some work to be done but I think it's going to look great once done! The keys really are cool
Yes, it is STILL RAINING CONSTANTLY. Can't look at the door now

Jon - wrt the fuel relay cut off switch, that'll be the last of my security goals. Once the wireless kit of fitted I'll have GPS tracking, wireless key entry, the factory immobiliser and a very heavy duty battery cut off switch - oh and the "don't touch this car - it has GPS tracking" stickers for £2 which I think will do more than anything to ward off teeves!

Chat tomorrow Garry

 

[Matt Wright]

Thanks for your help Garry, it did point me in the right direction. I did some testing using a ground connection and but it just kept on raining so I had to pack it in.

I did just find this tho which looks spot on in line with what you said

I think this is one to keep for the 91-97 owners. There are other diagrams I found which I can share if it's of use..

 

[Matt Wright]

Ok scrap all the above. I'm
Not sure which 80 that wiring diagram was intended for!?

I figured it out and have it nicely cabled up and working great

Will post a separate thread which explains it simply rather than mix it up in here..

 

[karl webster]

That's the kind of thing Jonnie had on his 24v manual 80. He lost his keys in the snow and had us all standing around in the cold for hours waiting while Dave and Karl hot wired it I want one of those, either home made or commercial because it's less likely to go wrong.

Matt, As jon stated above....

The alarm on jonnies was the standard one fitted to cruisers (24v anyway)

My personal opinion is dont bother! They are fine untill they go wrong. When they go wrong its usually when you could really do without it. Had loads of issues with alarms and imobilisers in the past. Usually just cut the things out when possible. had it with my r1 (Motorbike) when went for a ride and couldnt get it running again.

Why dont you just put some kind of personal cut of switch somewhere?

Karl

 

[karl webster]

I hadnt read the posts before i submitted my last post.

Jon is making sense with doing something yourself. There are quite a few ideas i could give you for making sure your truck doesnt go AWOL.

Only the 24v trucks have the transponder on the fuel solinoide. Dont want to go into to much detail on a forum really. If jonnie had been in the middle of the desert somewhere wouldnt have been to good. I personally think there are a few basic things that people should know when put in that situation we were in at wales where jonnie had lost his keys.

At the end of the day matt if someone wants the truck they will take it running or not. Just got to make there job alot harder and more time consuming.

Karl

 

[Matt Wright]

Thanks for the tip Karl. I've decided to go with :

Wireless randomised key fobs - fitted and working
Manual button set to fuel relay or something similar. It's a nice to have for the future though. Will pick your brain at Lincomb!

 

[james-c]

Hi
I recently fitted a TOAD alarm and immobiliser to my 1996 80 series. I went for a more expensive system as the last thing I want giving me trouble is the immobiliser/alarm/remote locking. So far it has behaved a it should and am very happy with it.

I have so far only fitted one of the immobilisation points, I'll like to add the second one to the fuel solenoid - but that's for later.

Finding the correct wires is a pain - I spent a lot of time staring at wiring looms trying to figure out what wire is what...

For the remote locking and unlocking I couldn't find the the unlocking wire in the drivers foot well, so I ended up running two wires through the door wiring loom and attaching them to the drivers door lock control switch.

For the door entry sensor, again I couldn't find a suitable wire in the foot wells or under the dash, so I ended up taking the instrument panel out and attaching it to the negative side of the door warning lamp.

For the indicators, I just attached them to the wires on hazard light switch.

I also got a couple of extra car keys cut at Timpsons (£22.50 for two), if this is of any interest to anyone (mine did not have any transponders in).