Alternator Tensioner bolt

[pugwash]

Anyone having problems with the alternator tensioning bolt falling out?

there is one bolt that does the tensioning through a small block which is bolted to the alternator. its the latter bolt that keeps coming loose- last time i loctited it in, and its STILL come out! Anyone else come across this and fixed it permantly?

what i'll end up doing is using a long bolt for the second one and sticking a locknut on if thats possible.

very annoying anyway.

 

[Chris]

It is possible. I did that on the white one I had. Someone had butchered the mechanism at some point. They had also snapped the long bolt. I think that had tried to tension the belt without slackening the short bolt that goes through the little black and the pivot bolt where the alt hinges on the engine block.

Chris

 

[goingdownsouth]

I need one too please!!

 

[pugwash]

iirc the short bolt that goes into the alternator is an M6 so you can use anything lying around

The long bolt and block are Toyota only i think, but only cost a couple of quid!

 

[BobMurphy]

iirc the short bolt that goes into the alternator is an M6 so you can use anything lying around

The long bolt and block are Toyota only i think, but only cost a couple of quid!

Is it the same as on the 90-series 1KZ-TE motor ???

May be easy to get parts if it is.

I think these are 8mm threads, though (memory may be faulty).

Bob.

 

[frank rabbets]

A lock nut against that block should be OK but a bit fiddly. Does it still come loose after you have adjusted the block, done the short bolt up and then tightened up the long bolt to lock it?

Frank

 

[Chris]

There's nothing special about either bolt. But the short one is the lock. Not the long one. You can put a nut on the back of the block if the threads have worn inside the block. I did that on GW. People tend to not realise that you have to slacken the short one then wind away at the long adjuster until it snaps

Chris

 

[Shayne]

I lost the lock nut on the adjuster and Toyota instead sent me the big mounting pivot bolt , the one you must loosen before messing with the adjuster (part 90105-10397) . But a stainless M8 about 1.5 inch bolt from my screwfix assortment allowed me to use the adjuster to get tension before tightening the big swivel/mounting bolt with a breaker bar as much as i dare .

I couldn't tighten the M8 though so i guess the thread inside the block is gone and i expect i will lose it which is no great concern because i can always find another next time belts need tightening , but what is annoying is the long thin adjuster bolt can come into contact with the belts damaging them when the lock nut falls out .

I will see how it goes but it seems likely the 2 bolts and spacer block in Bobs pic will end up living with my bottle jack to be brought out only when needed .

 

[Richard Turner]

There should be another big long bolt that holds the alternator onto its mount. If you remove the alternator you will find there is a sliding threaded bush in it. The threaded bush is probably seized, it needs to be free to move as this bolt provides the most of the clamping force to hold the alternator when the big long bolt is done up tight. It also ensures the alternator is held parallel to the block.

 

[Shayne]

Yeah its in there i had them out when i put new belts on a while back , couldn't find it to tighten today though before the rain started .

 

[PeterLC]

Suggestion : remove the block, screw in the long bolt from the opposite side, completely through, use loctite if that makes you feel better, put the block with long bolt back and add an M8 nylstop nut to the side where the long bolt's head previously was. You can now tension using the nut. Or use a nut and lock nut instead of the nylstop.

 

[frank rabbets]

On mine the sleeve is not threaded like all of the others I've seen. The sleeve slides to take up clearance and to stop one breaking one of the lugs off the alternator body. It's only because it's simpler than making the alternator an exact match to the mounting bracket on the engine.

 

[Shayne]

Suggestion : remove the block, screw in the long bolt from the opposite side, completely through, use loctite if that makes you feel better, put the block with long bolt back and add an M8 nylstop nut to the side where the long bolt's head previously was. You can now tension using the nut. Or use a nut and lock nut instead of the nylstop.

Simply genius Peter , i'm thinking a roofbolt with a blob of weld on it ground down to drop into the slide slot push it through and make like a washer out of plumbers tape so it could never fall out and tightening/loosening is a one spanner job