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Another 80 front axle rebuild

Chris

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Just worth posting for those yet to experience the thrill that is an 80 front axle rebuild. It's like Christmas morning, you unwrap layer by layer until you get to the surprise in the middle. Or in this case, exactly what you'd expected because it's the same as every other 80 you've worked on.

This sort of evidence tells you there's trouble ahead.

I'm guessing they didn't have a 54mm socket then? Still nice that they'd managed to do them finger tight, eh?
Screen Shot 2017-11-15 at 18.33.41.jpg


I'm not an expert, oh no, but I'm sure that there's supposed to be some greasy stuff packed in here?

Screen Shot 2017-11-15 at 18.35.46.jpg



It might be what's caused this -

Screen Shot 2017-11-15 at 18.37.21.jpg


and this shocking corrosion ..

Screen Shot 2017-11-15 at 18.45.58.jpg


Never mind, with some love and care it's now looking like this -


Screen Shot 2017-11-15 at 18.38.15.jpg



And the graveyard bucket is filling up nicely

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If you have been affected by this and other threads then please call maintenancecrimestoppers on 8428 62789 (thats nasty) and pledge £3 per month to stop this happening to other poor vehicles.
 
I've got a very similar pile of bit's in my garage.....original CV's by the look of it.
Mine did 170k before they needed a rest .
 
Not looked at them forensically yet, so they might be, but they were utterly buggered. So much slop it was untrue, but if the ARE genuine, then someone must have been in there and stolen all the grease, wiped the inner swivel clean and put them back.

The other side looked like this ..

Screen Shot 2017-11-15 at 22.10.55.jpg
 
Only reason I say genuine is the pink/purple paint on the end.........mine I know were Original and had the same paint
 
I've got a very similar pile of bit's in my garage.....original CV's by the look of it.
Mine did 170k before they needed a rest .
Only 170 K? Must be the extra weight of an 80.the O/S outer CV on my 95 was clicking like a cricket on meth for 9 months before I got it changed 203 K on the original.My mechanic , who is now familiar with Landcuisers said "it's ok until it starts clicking in a straight line"
 
Chris have you told the authorities about that roller bearing. The Atacama desert is now only the 2nd driest place on Earth.
 
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These were certainly clicking. Under normal driving and a good maintenance regime (and who's going to do that?) where they get pulled every 60k, cleaned out and repacked, I bet you could go a long way on a set of OEM CVs.

Problem is that whilst the 80s were relatively new, there was nothing in the service schedule about the hubs and but the time the 80 reached say 150k miles and half a dozen owners and 20 years, the damage was already done. It's only vehicles that were owned by enthusiasts from almost new or barn finds that have done few miles that are going to be in good shape inside the hubs I'm afraid.
 
Ha ha, I think you're right Frank. The centering on the other side was unbelievable. Seriously it was like the hub was on a spring loaded detent. It literally 'snapped' back into the straight ahead position.

This is going to be one smooth puppy when finished
 
These were certainly clicking. Under normal driving and a good maintenance regime (and who's going to do that?) where they get pulled every 60k, cleaned out and repacked, I bet you could go a long way on a set of OEM CVs.

Problem is that whilst the 80s were relatively new, there was nothing in the service schedule about the hubs and but the time the 80 reached say 150k miles and half a dozen owners and 20 years, the damage was already done. It's only vehicles that were owned by enthusiasts from almost new or barn finds that have done few miles that are going to be in good shape inside the hubs I'm afraid.

I also rebuild the front and back axles on the 75 two years ago when they mentioned there was some play on a bearing during the MOT. I am no mechanic at all, and I must say that this felt like doing brain surgery for me :grin:. At the end I was really happy to have done it, was a great experience and although the vehicle had done about 230k KM and the bearings were still okay it is a relieve to do it. Like you say, who the hell goes through all the effort just to clean the bearings and replace the grease! You might as well change everything while you are there, right?

All in all, I only had some issues with replacing the axles - apparently you need to lock the diffs prior dismanteling? Many claim that the axles are the 80's weak point, but what is a weak point if a mech nobody like me can rebuild everything himself! Awesome vehicle!

Good luck with the rest!
 
As you know Chris that snap back to dead ahead is caused by a combination of wear grooves in the bearing and any remaining preload. Once the bearing is worn too much the preload is gone and steering feedback from wear neutral again. When I did mine there was no corrosion and plenty of grease and with self centering on both sides it would drive down the road hands off quite happily. I don't think a Toyota garage would do as thorough job as you do.
 
Good luck Chris. What condition is the outside of the housing, does it need any work?
 
If you wanted to grease the hub no need for a grease nipple. There is a plug which unscrews. Problem is if there is water in there it lies under the grease permanently and corrodes the lower bearing. I did mine as a precaution really as the steering was sprung to dead ahead position so I knew sumut was up.
 
A timely post...about to experience this front axle joy with @Trevor tomorrow. Trucks on 130k but its been maintained by the 'local garage' so I'm expecting the worst. Theres a grease/oil mix all over the front outer n/s wheel so I might be able to give your picture 2 a run for its money in then dry stakes.
 
Yeah plenty of puddles on the nearside. They sometimes cause more wear and corrosion on parts and body especially if they are brine puddles lol.
 
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Sorry Ben, which housing. Do you mean the actual axle casing? That's not bad. And about 3000% better than the rear one. If you mean the swivel housing, well here's a before ..

Screen Shot 2017-11-16 at 16.46.58.jpg


And an after .....


Screen Shot 2017-11-16 at 16.48.18.jpg


Magically, I seem to transferred all the filth to my garage floor, walls and windows.

But good progress today, although I didn't quite get the diff out. Light stopped play.

However, the cleaning paid off.

Screen Shot 2017-11-16 at 16.50.40.jpg



Next couple of days should go easy enough for the rebuild. Lots of new parts. All new bearings, CVs, backing plates seals, nuts and so on.
Screen Shot 2017-11-16 at 16.52.41.jpg



Only snapped on wiper seal bolt. But that was easily remedied.

Screen Shot 2017-11-16 at 16.53.20.jpg
 
I should have added that all threaded holes were cleaned and restored with thread chasers ready for reassembly.

I couldn't be without these.

Screen Shot 2017-11-16 at 16.56.02.jpg
 
Can grease nipples not be fitted to these?

Although I've said it before when I got my 1st 80 ( 2 years old) I drilled and tapped the plugs and fitted grease nipples, I put 2 or 3 pumps every time I greased the front prop (4.5K). When I sold it 16 years and 12oK miles later the swivel bearings were perfect, no play, no "grenading". Although what I had done wasn't taken as a good idea generally I figured if Toyota hadn't thought it was a good idea to put grease in then they wouldn't have put a removable plug in the swivel housing with a hole the size of a grease gun end and mentioned it in the handbook.

So in a word AM yes.
 
I agree with Andy on refreshing the grease for the swivels but don't expect that grease to migrate into the CVs because it simply won't.
 
Its the external surface of the big ball shaped housing that the scraper seals work against ... sorry not sure what the name of it is. Wondering if its pitted or rusty as exposed to the elements
 
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