After a little pallet of goodies arriving last week from Steff I finially started my manual conversion today. Had the box and everything out in less than 4 hours today so not bad going. First job in the morning is to set the manual box in and do some minor fabrication to tunnel as the shifters appear to sit in slightly different locations. Hopefully have box in and all plumbed up tommorow night. Wish me luck!
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Auto to Manual conversion
- Thread starter L18 CGL
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Good luck!! Well you did ask!
Very interesting though, do we get a blow by blow account? Are you re gearing? Lets have the whole story as I am sure others may follow this route in the future.
Andy
Very interesting though, do we get a blow by blow account? Are you re gearing? Lets have the whole story as I am sure others may follow this route in the future.
Andy
I will take a few snaps and keep you's posted of any problems I have along the way. I don't think there should be any need for a re gear as I am running 35's and on auto diff's with manual box and matching transfer so effectively it would be like somebody with a manual putting 4.44 diffs in which effectiveliy is a re gear in a round about way???
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somehow I thought that was the answer on its way, thanks.
Andy
Andy
Made good progress today. First issue I ran into was thegearbox mount and cross member. The mounts on the manual box sit approx 1 inchcloser to the engine than auto. Cross members are identical between auto andmanual so the 2 mount bolts fit the mount okay but the 14mm bolts then are outfor the chassis rails. So rather then start drilling and tapping holes in railsmy friend cut a section out off the cross member and welded in some nice thickbox section to extend it by a small amount. we then drilled some new holes forthe 2 gearbox mounts into the box section and everything lines up perfect now Ican still use all my original chassis rail holes.
Got box up into car and had to trim the tunnel slightly atthe front to allow the gear stick to sit correctly and also a small amount offthe left hand side next to the transfer shifter. Only thing with that is noneof the original holes line up to tighten down the rubber seal. So have drilledthe new holes to match manual set up and was considering tacking some nuts tothe underside for the bolts to tighten to but then decided to use rivetsinstead of a nut and bolt set up as it will save me welding the nuts onunderneath.
Next issue I think I will encounter is reverse lights. I amthinking just take the feed directly from the gearbox switch into the car andwire it up to the plug that used to go to the Auto shifter. That way it willfeed into the ECU the way it used to and is just taking it switch from thegearbox switch rather than the switch on the old shifter.
Also the Auto feature for the Parked location to allow thekey to come out and engine to start will need looked at. I am not sure butassume I can just complete that old circuit and make it think that it in Parkedamen.
Any suggestions for a better method of getting some reverse lights and Parked issues would be very welcome cheers
Got box up into car and had to trim the tunnel slightly atthe front to allow the gear stick to sit correctly and also a small amount offthe left hand side next to the transfer shifter. Only thing with that is noneof the original holes line up to tighten down the rubber seal. So have drilledthe new holes to match manual set up and was considering tacking some nuts tothe underside for the bolts to tighten to but then decided to use rivetsinstead of a nut and bolt set up as it will save me welding the nuts onunderneath.
Next issue I think I will encounter is reverse lights. I amthinking just take the feed directly from the gearbox switch into the car andwire it up to the plug that used to go to the Auto shifter. That way it willfeed into the ECU the way it used to and is just taking it switch from thegearbox switch rather than the switch on the old shifter.
Also the Auto feature for the Parked location to allow thekey to come out and engine to start will need looked at. I am not sure butassume I can just complete that old circuit and make it think that it in Parkedamen.
Any suggestions for a better method of getting some reverse lights and Parked issues would be very welcome cheers
Why not use rivnuts?
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Graham
Well-Known Member
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How about a simple white illuminated switch on the dash, which turns on the reversing lights?
Gra.
Okay so made some more progress today got bulk head drilled, clutch pedal bolted in and all plumbed up. Tried to start it and as I thought dash lights come on but when turn key nothing only the relay noise you hear when trying to start in D when auto. Tried plugging auto shifter back in to test it but still no joy and the P lights or any shift lights. Does anyone know where it take the signal from because I am thinking now that it possibly comes from auto box itself and not the shifter?
The lights are driven by a fan shaped quadrant on the side of the auto box I believe. This is where the neutral start position sensor is. Inside is a series of copper tongues that make contact with an electrode moved by the shift lever. There isn't anything to the shift lever other than the lever, lock button and OD switch.
Quadrant is on a multi connector - I think.
Chris
Quadrant is on a multi connector - I think.
Chris
You got me there. I'm guessing it's a simple open / closed circuit, probably twisting the right wires together would do the trick. It's not something I'd ever thought about. You seem to be doing fine so far, I am sure that you'll figure out a work-around now you know what's connected to what.
C
C
I may be remembering wrong but I thought the neutral start switch is connected to the 2 pin round connector by the starter? Haven't checked the wiring diagram and it's a pretty distant memory ...
That would be neat Jon. Only two pins to deal with. But the contact itself is in the quadrant, isn't it? I remember having to set that up when I replaced the transmission. It's a tricky little operations to get right.
Chris
Chris
the actual switch is in that quadrant, yes, but there are 2 or 3 connections in the loom just by the starter motor that the gearbox and transfer looms plug into and my memory is of a round connector being the one for the neutral start but it is quite a few years since I messed with that so I may be remembering wrong.
No I think that you are right Jon. I am having starting issues and it's not batteries and the starter is new. But I do know that the plugs down there are damaged. Including the one that you mention. At times when I turn the key I get the same as if the shift lever was in gear. Well sort of. I think there is a loose connection so sometimes it fires, sometimes it doesn't and sometimes it sort of limps. That would be a good place to bridge the loom.
Chris
Chris
Yes Jon there is a round plug that joins into the loom beside the starter I will have a look at the plug that comes from the quadrant and follow it back to see if it does goes to that round plug if it does I will bridge it and give it a go!
on your were 100% on the money, the round 2 pin plug bridged that and it fired straight up. Also got the tunnel tidied up and the gaiter boots riveted in. Everything seems to be working fine but there is a small noise when starting it. It sounds like the started is catching so took it off and sprayed some plus gas around the wheel in case it is sticking. From my research all 80 starters are the same? Also 5ltr of oil didn't cover the box + transfer so have to get another litre. Hopefully get it out on the road tomorrow!
Excellent. Yes, pics needed. I thought about doing this to mine some while ago as I have a spare manual box sitting here. It sounded like it would be too much trouble though. Obviously you've made it work
Well done
PICS PICS PICS
Chris
Well done
PICS PICS PICS
Chris
