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Blue Smoke

Right, been a day of learning....

I found the 10mm socket, so it was not that, would have been too easy.

So took it apart and lifted the cam cover. Nothing obviously wrong, no spanners or anything left behind.

Removed the injectors again, and #1 injector was covered in oil, as was number 1 cylinder. Clearly the engine was hydro locked, so no amount of cranking would have solved this. Cranked it over with the injectors removed and the fuel pump disconnected, which cleared the oil out
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That's from #1

So, cleaned it all up and started reassembly, when this happened

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At this point I was really glum. Just could not understand why the bolt had sheared, I was using a torque wrench set to 25nm....

After some head scratching, I sharpend up a old screwdriver and used that to drive a slot into the piece in the head, and managed to turn it out.... phew
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So, used one of the old bolts, and on examining the torque wrench I noticed it was set to 35nm, damn failing eyesight.

After this it was plain sailing all back together and running well. Took it for a drive and after a bit seems to have stopped smoking. Sounds a bit less tappity/ rattley than before.

So thinking about it and why it was hydro locked, I can only conclude that as the car is on a slope facing downhill whilst I cleaned all the injectors which took about a hour, oil must have slowly drained into #1...

Will drain the oil and do the pickup next week...
 
Awesome man, you sorted it!! Great result :thumbup:
 
Result ! Phew ! Sorry for the bad advice, I'm beginning to wonder now if that's what happened with me. Mine did turn over and start on the second turn of the key, and no smoke, so hopefully got away with it. Good recovery from the broken bolt !:fearscream::thumbup::thumbup:
 
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No worries, got there in the end. Broken bolt was a very low point.... I had to walk away and think long and hard as I was starting to look at the 4 pound hammer :laughing-rolling::laughing-rolling::laughing-rolling:

Oh and I forgot to mention I forgot to tighten up #1 injector HP line on the common rail... Needless to say it sprayed diesel everywhere..
 
You did well getting the broken bolt out. I can imagine it was a very low point when you felt that snap.:scared-eek:
Whats the verdict today? fixed I hope.

Oh yeah as my dad would say "its the joys of motoring" after hearing me swearing under the bonnet.
 
Glad to hear you (finally) got it sorted and the truck's running well. :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

You seem to have been through the wars, sorting the smoking issue. Looking at the pics, you're lucky that broken bolt didn't cause you more trouble.

How did you "fix" the broken bolt - I'm assuming you had to buy a new one from Mr Toyota, or is it just a off-the-shelf generic bolt?
 
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You did well getting the broken bolt out. I can imagine it was a very low point when you felt that snap.:scared-eek:
Whats the verdict today? fixed I hope.

Oh yeah as my dad would say "its the joys of motoring" after hearing me swearing under the bonnet.
Only drove it to the station and back, so less than a mile, but did not notice any smoke. Will park it facing downhill for the rest of the week and see what happens.

I am still pushing the Mrs to start thinking about a replacement, but at least we have some time now.

Glad to hear you (finally) got it sorted and the truck's running well. :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

You seem to have been through the wars, sorting the smoking issue. Looking at the pics, you're lucky that broken bolt didn't cause you more trouble.

How did you "fix" the broken bolt - I'm assuming you had to buy a new one from Mr Toyota, or is it just a off-the-shelf generic bolt?

They are described as stretch bolts in Toyodiy so I ordered 4 new ones to do the job. As it was Sunday I just used one of the old ones.

As far as parts used:
  • 4 x 90105-08374 - Injector Clamp Retaining Bolt
  • 4 x 96721-19017 - Injector Nozzle Injection Seal O-Ring
  • 4 x 11176-30010 - SEAT, INJECTION NOZZLE
  • 5 x 90904-30013 - Leakoff washer
  • 1 x 11213-30020 - GASKET, CYLINDER HEAD COVER
I would say the leakoff washers are important as they twist and can break when tightening. Could have re-used the gasket, but as it was cheap I chose to replace it.
 
Good job on the broken bolt removal:thumbup:
You did well to get away with no engine damage. Hydraulic lock can be a rod and piston breaker. Seen it twice on engines ingesting water on a ford crossing. Wrecked engine.
 
Well done with the repair, Was just wondering what kind of driving history your truck has, Long distance, short start /stop journeys etc... Hope its sorted now:thumbup:
 
Good job on the broken bolt removal:thumbup:
You did well to get away with no engine damage. Hydraulic lock can be a rod and piston breaker. Seen it twice on engines ingesting water on a ford crossing. Wrecked engine.
I guess the saving grace is that it was not running so did not get multiple cycles.

Well done with the repair, Was just wondering what kind of driving history your truck has, Long distance, short start /stop journeys etc... Hope its sorted now:thumbup:

Over the 14 years been a mix of short journeys and slightly longer commutes. Average of 9k miles per year. Last 7 or so years mainly to the station and back so less than 1 mile each way. With the mrs driving, no real appreciation of allowing some warm up time as she gets in starts and drives straight away :fearscream:

Always serviced (admittedly first 10 years main dealer) on time with only genuine Toyota filers etc used, even when I have done it myself.

What bothers me though is why the seals failed after 50k miles and 6 years. This is not long at all :rage::rage::rage: considering some LC's have pushed way past 200k miles with none of these issues...

One things for sure, I can now do these injector swaps easily, so if anyone needs some help let me know.

If it's a turbo swap, you're on your own :laughing-rolling::laughing-rolling::laughing-rolling:
 
Glad it’s sorted. And glad that nut on the common rail didn’t result in diesel injected into you! That can be very nasty! Cautionary tale to anyone reading, never undo a common rail nut with the engine running. (I know you didn’t :) )
 
Probably worth a filter change looking at the state of that if it hasn’t had one for a while.
 
Cleans the EGR valve today. Should really have taken off the inlet manifold, but that is quite a bit more work.

Before and after pics...

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Jeez is this still going on :think: maybe the advice should be when its one of them newer cars showing problems "just sell it"
 
Last job on this ever. Next problem it gets sold. Bored now
 
I blocked it off with a plate about a year ago, so shouldn't get any worse.
Did blanking plate have a hole in the centre of it or was it a full blanking plate , minimum hole size before engine light comes giving p400 code on is 7mm unless you have a Ozbush fuel mapper then you can have full blanking plate with no engine light or EGR codes ,the PCV flow (oil/gas vapours) through the intake helps the carbon coming through the EGR valve stick to the sides of the intake and build up from the EGR valve on wards . oil catch can vented to air under the truck via a filter stops the oil mixing with the carbon and sticking to the sides of the intake EGR onwards . engine breathes in just oxygen then making engine run smoother and engine oil staying much cleaner for much longer . the cost of the oil catch can ,silicone pipes and filter comes to a total of about £45 when got off ebay as separate items .
 
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