Mar 2, 2018
That's what I use after much researching to see what others did.
Some pictures during the job...
Water is coming
That is a beautiful piece of fabrication mate! Really looking forward to seeing it if you ever make it over to a meet
did you fab that water tank up yourself? Very nice job.
I used cable chain on its side underneath the Fridge drawer on 2 x L brackets. Looks like you have even more room than I did so should be doable if you bracket it off the back of the Fridge drawer to avoid hurting that front cross bar. Like this, search for cable chain or cable drag chain on eBay.
That all looks superb, you clearly know what you are doing and your way around sheet ally and vehicle electrics. That D line trunking is very neat but expensive for what it is.
Just one thing, tell me you’ve added some fuses for your metering wires off your shunt and something at the battery to protect the main battery cable. It’s the only thing I could see that wasn’t perfect. It’s very easy to miss these but they are essential to prevent a fire if the smaller (smaller than 50mm anyway) cables get damaged. Hope you didn’t mind me saying, the rest of it is aircraft standard, which I’m guessing is what your work is.
I'm not so expert, I'm learning with this job... anyway, I fitted a fuse between the battery pole and the wires. (You can't see it from the pictures)
Instead of use a single big wire, I used 2 smaller wire, they have a total section of 15mm (2 for + and 2 for -).
They seems too be more than enough, I've a max consumption of 50 amps.
Do you think a need also a fuse between the matter switch and the shunt??
That look really professional... I'll see if I've the space to fit it!
Unfortunately I can't weld... so I'm paying to have the welding done
Hope to meet you soon and the job done
As long as there is a fuse that protects the cables each time they change to a smaller size, rated for that size cable then that’s ok. For example, you have two skinny wires coming from the shunt without fusing. These wires will be fused at whatever you have fused the man battery cables at so if they shorted at your meter for example, they almost certainly would catch light and not blow the fuse.
Using two wires in parallel should be avoided too really. If one of them is pinched and shorted then you have to be sure the fuse will blow.
As long as your cross sectional areas of the cables are the same up to the fuse box, and protected by a suitable fuse at the battery terminal you should be ok.
Really the installation is no longer as the picture also because I fitted the shunt on the positive, but it must be fitted on the negative, so I modify it after the picture.
I managed just few amps by the fuse box,I don't need so much current... I'm speaking about 50 amps just for the compressor.
The compressor source is not under the fusebox, I took the power directly from the the master switch and I fit a relay that is managed by a switch I fit on the rear console. Is it ok?
The shunt will be better on the negative and not require fuses as long as the skinny wires cannot come into contact with a positive which is extremely unlikely. Far less likely than if it were on the positive.
As long as each and every cable is protected by a fuse at or as close as practically possible to the positive source then all will be ok. To be clear, I’m thinking of the current draw of each item as well as them all together, but mainly to protect against short circuit. There’s two ways to prevent fire by short circuit.
1, Correct fusing for the size, length and routing of the cable and
2, Protection against chafing or anything else that may cause inadvertent contact.
You’ve protected your cables well in the trunking but of course this is part way through and I can only assume you’ve protected ed the main wires etc. As I say, your workmanship and design is superb. It’s these little things that can creep up on you so we have to plan for the worst case scenario. In your case, a heavy rear end shunt to that corner.
Thanks a lot Rich
Marco, it looks like you’ve made your drawer unit in a similar cassette style to how I’ve done mine. Do you know the weight of it without drawers in, just the drawer carcass? I made mine from birch ply and weighed it. I drilled lots of holes in it and saved 10% weight but it still came out at 50 kg. (I’ll need to check if that was before or after the holes )
Only the rails I've used are 42kg, the rest of the structure isn't so heavy, but I didn't weight it.
I'm going to do it later, but probably for the entire assembly.
If I'll have the opportunity, I'll weight it and I let you know!
Witch material you used?
I used alloy for the drawers, but the structure is a steel angular 30mmx30mm 3mm thick plus
Few plates with same thickness to attach the rail and provide rigidity.
I’ve used a combination of 15mm birch plywood and 3mm ally. I’ve constructed my own drawer runners out of ally rod fitted with shower door runner bearings and steel mounting channel. They run quite nicely but aren’t as strong as your runners. They seem to take the weight though and are mounted below the drawers to save on space. Bit of a faff really as the mounting channel is a bit uneven but they seem to work ok.
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