Can't fit wheel spaces - Gutted !

[Shayne]

Looking at the bumper and grill vents i think i have a more direct airflow now than i did before but Grant your news is disconcerting to say the least . Is it not the auto's that are prone to over heating given that rad failure at around 100k is a known problem for auto's but doesn't seem to effect the manual trucks ?

 

[grantw]

I think any after market gauge is actually better. At least one that moves under varying loads

Shayne - I'm far from a 90 expert but I think you're correct. The radiators seal between the water cooling and transmission fluid cooling breaks do you end up with water in your auto transmission resulting in a rusty mess. I think most fit an AT fluid external cooler, which helps keep the engine and the transmission cooler.

 

[grantw]

In a 2.4 litre surf I had I fitted an orange warning light when the factory fitted electric thermo fan kicked in ... just reminding me to back off a little until the temp came down to a point where the fan stopped again. Of course the temp gauge hadn't moved when the light had come on.

 

[Trevor]

Got to disagree with that Shayne, yes the auto's rad design does have it's prone points. However, even though that isn't the case on the manual you need to be very aware of how hot the engine is getting. There are plenty of warped and cracked head stories all over the net for the 1KZ-TE engines on manual trucks.

As Chris says, if you have the aircon rad you will soon find yourself overheating if you've been playing in mud or muddy water. The aircon rad gets blocked as well as the cooling rad, trouble is you can't clean the cooling rad easily as the space between the two is really tight and the shroud hides a lot of muck around its perimeter.

I had exactly this problem coming home after a play site session and had to have Mrs Trev tow me home in the 120, to that end I'm going to remove the aircon from the truck which means I can carry a pump sprayer and wash out the cooling rad after playing.

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

"That would be the logical thing to do Jim", oh ah sorry I meant Trev.

Andy

 

[Trevor]

She cannae take anymore.

 

[Shayne]

I'm going around in circles here and getting nothing done . I started out just planning to make the bumper fit a bit tidier after the body lift . Where i'm at now is thinking my simplest option is to remove the real bumper (the steel one that hides behind your pretty plastic one) cut the brackets off it and use them to refit the plastic bumper for a cosmetically better finish . As i see it the steel bumper is now redundant as it must be moved so high to prevent blocking airflow that it won't be of any use in a collision anyway.

With that removed the radiators actually have more open air access than it did as standard . With regards to the air con cooler preventing my cleaning the rad i'm sure your correct but unless both the cooler and the rad are completely submerged in mud wouldn't the cooler actually act as a splash shield keeping the rad fins clear and allowing the fan to do its work ?

 

[Chris Green90]

TBH Guys after all the reading I have done on this it does appear that having a manual does improve matters, and even more so if you are lowly and poor like me and have no aircon as well. After fitting my body lift I had dabbled with dropping the rad back down to its original position but as Shayne has already said I think that the airflow through the rad is better where it is. aside from the fact that i have no determinable front bumper now the rad sits right behind the winch so leaving it where it is give me an extra 40mm above the top of the winch. need to refit the cowl at some point but I have done a couple of laning trips and a play day since the lift and everything looks to be fine and dandy (touch wood).

 

[Chris Green90]

With regards to the air con cooler preventing my cleaning the rad i'm sure your correct but unless both the cooler and the rad are completely submerged in mud wouldn't the cooler actually act as a splash shield keeping the rad fins clear and allowing the fan to do its work ?

Not difficult to get them both submerged in mud

 

[Shayne]

Yeah i've seen the vid Chris made me think I WANT A GO !

Helen was stood behind me while i watched it on com and said before i even opened my mouth , "Don't even think about it"

 

[Shayne]

Will it ever end !
Deciding i need to do something to tidy up the rear end (with vague ideas about a receiver hitch and maybe some kind of skid plate) i removed the fuel tank guard and tow bar . As a result of losing all the weight the gap between tires and wheel arches looks much more even . Obviously the fuel tank guard has to go back on and i need a tow hitch so it looks like i will have to source some better springs to keep the gaps even .

I rarely carry much weight inside the truck so the new springs would only have to offset the weight of tank guard and Tow bar and so run the risk of turning my truck into a boneshaker if i get the wrong springs so i would welcome any suggestions .

Perhaps i should mention i have 40mm coil spacers in the rear .

 

[Chris Green90]

I reckon you will probably get away with just standard new ones

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Roger Fairclough]

I think any after market gauge is actually better. At least one that moves under varying loads

Shayne - I'm far from a 90 expert but I think you're correct. The radiators seal between the water cooling and transmission fluid cooling breaks do you end up with water in your auto transmission resulting in a rusty mess. I think most fit an AT fluid external cooler, which helps keep the engine and the transmission cooler.

I removed the standard fan and shroud and fitted a 16" Kenlowe elecric fan. I use a thermo switch to activate it with a manual back up switch next to the instrument panel. If the fan comes on a warning light on the dash switch illuminates. This tells me if the engine is warming up, irrespective of the temp. gauge.

If you wanted to, you could fit a thermo switch just to activate a light to tell you if the temp. was rising.

Roger

 

[Chas]

I removed the standard fan and shroud and fitted a 16" Kenlowe elecric fan. I use a thermo switch to activate it with a manual back up switch next to the instrument panel. If the fan comes on a warning light on the dash switch illuminates. This tells me if the engine is warming up, irrespective of the temp. gauge. Roger

I had exactly the same set-up in my 80, purely for driving through mud and deep water, but suffered a lot of overheating, especially on long slogs uphill. When the original fan and shroud were put back I had no more problems.

 

[Shayne]

True Chris , my rear spacers ended up being 10mm short as well coz i was ripped off by an ebay seller who asked me to send him a bumpstop to use as a template then when i politely asked his wife or girlfriend how progress was going i got lie after lie , almost 2 weeks after the promised delivery date i finally got hold of the man himself i spoke to him with an attitude disappointed acceptance as i expected even more delay . His response was angry and insulting and he refused to speak to me again .

I guess new standard springs would allow me to increase the spacer size as well for that forward lean i liked when i first bought the truck .

Obviously SAM ROLFE has some sort of inferiority complex over the fact he can wear a G-string back to front without anything falling out . He also trades as "Well Spaced Out" on the web so avoid this seller folks .

 

[Shayne]

need to refit the cowl at some point but I have done a couple of laning trips and a play day since the lift and everything looks to be fine and dandy (touch wood).

I think you should refit the cowl Chris , the benefits of it are impossible to gauge on a radiator fan but cowls are often added to boat propellers and there can be no doubt the cowl improves things significantly .

 

[Roger Fairclough]

I think you should refit the cowl Chris , the benefits of it are impossible to gauge on a radiator fan but cowls are often added to boat propellers and there can be no doubt the cowl improves things significantly .

Because the engine moves on it's mountings and would inevitably chew into the rad, a cowl is used to channel the air through the rad and then the fan without loosing to much air to the sides. My Kenlowe is mounted in front of the rad and the fan blades are only about 4-5mm away from the fins, plus the Kenlowe has it's own cowl anyway.

If you are using just the original fan, then I agree with Shayne that you should re-fit the cowl.

Roger