Chassis Rust Removal -- Recommended Tools for Awkward Areas?

[Tractionman]

You're brave, starting that in November. Yep the needle gun would certainly show up any rot/weak parts.

Haha, yeah I had white skin with red 'hole' pattern and outline of crocs.
If you think that was daft, eons ago, I had on a string vest while out in the yard tinkering with the lawnmower.
Imagine the pattern on me then, and the piss taking at the gym !!
String vests and gym are just a distant memory now !

 

[AndyCook]

Having tried angle angle grinders and drills with various different attachments I found the air powered needle gun has been best tool for the job for removing flaky rust under my Hilux.

 

[Geoff 28]

You're brave, starting that in November. Yep the needle gun would certainly show up any rot/weak parts.

Haha, yeah I had white skin with red 'hole' pattern and outline of crocs.
If you think that was daft, eons ago, I had on a string vest while out in the yard tinkering with the lawnmower.
Imagine the pattern on me then, and the piss taking at the gym !!
String vests and gym are just a distant memory now !

I was lucky enough to have the use of a workshop with a ramp and there weren’t any neighbours to annoy either so November worked out ok!
I’m just struggling to get the image of your string vest incident out of my head now

 

[Tractionman]

A proper workshop with ramps is perfect for that, no wriggling around on your back on the ground, or a creeper under axle stands/ramps, and able to work at arms length with a better view of what's going on, - lucky you !
Don't dwell too much on the image of me and a string vest - not a pretty sight !!
Red skin with white chequer board lines front and back, the guys down the gym wanted me to lay down for a quick game of draughts every visit, it took months to disappear !

 

[stuzbot]

Well, so much for getting myself all tooled up and ready to start sanding that chassis to within an inch of its life this weekend.....

The First Days of Spring, eh?

 

[Tractionman]

It's dry underneath though.

 

[Springate’s]

Are you guys working under ramps/axle stands or a lift?

 

[MisterCruiser]

The air needle scale rust removers are absolute class, they're not too aggressive if on good steel, but if there's a weak spot where you don't want to make a hole or enlarge a hole for moment then don't put the needle on it. But for removing rust on good steel they're brilliant. One of the best tools I ever bought and, I cleaned heavy rust off of my entire 120 with it, chassis, fuel tank, sills, etc..
I was using mine with a 200L compressor, worked fine.

 

[Tractionman]

Drive up on 4 extra wide plastic type ramps well within the weight limit. Belt and braces axle stands being moved around to suit work.

 

[Springate’s]

Drive up on 4 extra wide plastic type ramps well within the weight limit. Belt and braces axle stands being moved around to suit work.

I have a couple of metal ramps. Is there a particular reason for recommending plastic ones?

 

[Tractionman]

Standard metal ones are narrow and need very careful manouvering, not something I'd want to do with all 4 at a time, 2 is enough, even with my modest standard 265 65 17 tyres.
I've had a pair of the standard metal ones for years, now redundant, and when I say plastic ramps, there must be more to the type of used, (mygeneric term) and these are wider, cleverly designed and structured, well within weight limits, don't rust and are lighter.
I think I paid about £40 pr, certainly no more, they are much more now if you can find them.
4 axle stands used are just a secondary, and are not in contact, just to the nearest ratchet, so I can move them about while still under.

 

[Springate’s]

Standard metal ones are narrow and need very careful manouvering, not something I'd want to do with all 4 at a time, 2 is enough, even with my modest standard 265 65 17 tyres.
I've had a pair of the standard metal ones for years, now redundant, and when I say plastic ramps, there must be more to the type of used, (mygeneric term) and these are wider, cleverly designed and structured, well within weight limits, don't rust and are lighter.
I think I paid about £40 pr, certainly no more, they are much more now if you can find them.
4 axle stands used are just a secondary, and are not in contact, just to the nearest ratchet, so I can move them about while still under.

That makes sense, had a few hairy moments using the metal ones before!
I’ll look out for some wider, plastic alternatives.

 

[Tractionman]

Karl2000 has them too.
Make sure you get the high rise and not the low.
The high rise give about the same as the metal 7" ? Which is loads when your under a cruiser on a creeper.
The low ones at about half will give you little advantage, so worth spending the extra.

 

[karl2000]

+1 for plastic ramps and axle stands backup

Get loads of working space underneath and much quicker than jacking up for 4 axle stands... Once you learn to line them up that is!

 

[Juddian]

I have two extra long extra high ramps and two standard ones, all steel.
Long ones for the front smaller jobbies for the rear, guesstimate the shorter distance of the smaller ramps, position mine roughly 12" in front of the rear wheels, engage low range and climb up all 4.
The motor's absolutely solid and plenty of room to slide about underneath, no need for axle stands.

Take a tip, spread cardboard and if poss an old room size rug underneath before you start, rustproofing is a filthy job, after treatment you can leave the vehicle to drip for days after without the woman of the house kicking your arse due to one filthy drive.

 

[thelal]

anyone real world experience with the dry-ice/freeze method

 

[Springate’s]

I’m going to attack the rust on mine in a month or so. In addition to some ramps for access and various brushes/wheels I’m planning on applying Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 and cavity wax before using Lanoguard.
Does this look like a reasonable plan??

 

[Tractionman]

Yes, as a basic, but bear in mind the plan might change as you get into the prep work - i.e. tools and method of attack depending on what you find.
It's a long and filthy job done properly !

 

[Springate’s]

Yes, as a basic, but bear in mind the plan might change as you get into the prep work - i.e. tools and method of attack depending on what you find.
It's a long and filthy job done properly !

I’m giving myself 3-4 days but I’m aware its going to be an ongoing issue. I’m going to treat it like a new hobby

 

[Tractionman]

IMHO, and based on my own experience, 3-4 days is nowhere long enough for a thorough job start to finish to do everything bottom side, even without problems. A good detergent pressure wash/rinse/blow dry to get any loose shite/grease off will eat into your time.
Weather will be a big enemy too. When I did mine it was blistering, so able to put in full succesive days.
Remember that when your successive and final coats of whatever go on, anything missed and painted over will be a waste of time and money.
Thats not to say that it can be absolutely100% guaranteed anyway, but I'm sure you get my drift. Good luck with it !!