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DIY Drawer System - Gonna have a go.

Sam Jan 12, 2012

  1. Ben

    Ben Well-Known Member Guru I am in australia

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    not sure how much further youve got with this Sam, but ive come up with a much better solution that cutting V's in the corners.

    my idea is much easier to do and crates a much stronger corner. also got a few tips for bending the corners which might help. :thumbup:

    viewtopic.php?f=22&t=11591&start=690
     
  2. Sam

    Sam Well-Known Member

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    Thanks ben - that looks fantastic! Wish I'd seen this sooner!!! Your corner method certainly looks like the one.

    2 hours you say? :shock: I'll keep my times to myself then! :lol:

    Good looking workshop too. My workshop consists of a small toolbox with a hammer, a pen and a little wooden bench/chair in the garden. So clamps and other such manners of magic were not available to me. Still, I'm quite happy with my rounded corners. And the hours it took trying to fight against the spring and hold it square while trying to rivet some stabilisers on, were.. well.. educational. Not an easy task on your own at minus "silly cold" :shock:

    Got the frame together though. Hopefully getting first placement into the LC today. Fingers crossed. Just need to find some 1 3/4 inch ally box section to make some struts underneath to bolt it down. The arches in the 120 are quite high so need that little extra lift.

    Probably get the box section here... seems pretty cheap.
     
  3. Ben

    Ben Well-Known Member Guru I am in australia

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    im sure once youve finished it will look great Sam. :thumbup:

    having the right tools for the job does make it a thousand times easier and quicker though. :)

    thanks for the link. ive just ordered 2 2.5m lengths for mine from them. :thumbup:
     
  4. Sam

    Sam Well-Known Member

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    Finally an update. Just not enough hours in a day at the moment... and the trip looming ever closer :shock:

    Anyway... the progress. It was clear that due to the systems curvy corners I couldn't be sure just how square it would or wouldn't be until it was in place - so I held off on drawers. Instead I spent a long time pondering how I was going to bolt this thing down! My original plan was to use the tie down D rings as this would give a nice firm front and (almost) back edge to handle the weight. So sure was I of this, that I didn't think to even look at what bolts were holding the D rings in. Then I looked. They were no good. Veeeery short screw type bolts - and no depth in the hole for longer ones. So... plan B was needed.

    P1010161.jpg

    I decided that with a few brackets and a bit of clever positioning I could get just enough distance between a couple of cross struts (Inch and 3/4 to get height above arches) to support the front and back (without needing something right at the front and back). :pray:

    I took off the plastic seat fixing surrounds (waiting for a new home in the top right of the pic) and fixed the brackets (2" from SrewFix) to the seat fixings like this (had to cut carpet a little bit)...

    P1010157.jpg

    Note that they are pointing at angles because of the bumps in the floor - it wasn't another Sam special - they're still to come! :lol: )....

    Couldn't find any longer bolts than the ones holding the seat bars in - turns out they are a "special" metric-fine-and-a-half thread. Suppose it's to stop people replacing them with steel ones. Anyway, used the originals with 3 big washers underneath to get the height. Height was important because the thick carpet made it hard to get the cross struts low enough to meet the holes in the brackets... you can only drill them so low when its 3mm thick tubing... more on that later!

    The struts are bolted from behind through bigger holes made with a hole saw to get a socket through. Some of which are round. See, I didn't use a hole saw on the first strut... but I learnt fast and did on the second!... I wont show you the back of the first one ;) , but here's the second in place...

    P1010166.jpg

    Most important tool for the whole job on the left there. The white one with the handle! Here's another shot of the big holes... can you spot the problem?

    P1010164.jpg

    :clap: Well done Sam. But never mind... if they were all in line it would have been boring :roll: ... at least the important bolt holes at the front were spot on!

    There is a bigger problem to watch out for here though. The floor in the back of the 120 slopes a lot. In odd ways. Most noticeably for this point, it slopes upwards from the seats towards the back door - a lot more than it looks. Even between these two struts it's really noticeable. Mostly it meant that I had to stand on the rear strut to push the carpet down enough to be able to bolt through. BUT... and here's the real Sam special... I got a bit too concerned about the problem and drilled the holes in the strut too low. High enough that the bolt goes through ok - but too low on some to get a small washer in there with the bolt - and worse - just too low to get the socket in!!!! :shock:

    Fortunately though - the ones that were too low were "too low enough" that the hex head (with the help of a wedged washer) held itself in place while I did up the nuts. :dance: ... close call. I'll probably swap the strut out at some point because I know it's there - but for now it's bolted tight and will be fine.

    By the way... look what I got :thumbup:

    P1010173.jpg

    My workshop is growing. It might look like just a toolbox that acts as a table and a clamp - but I'm catching up Ben :lol:

    The clamp is what's curing the curvy corner problem. As you can see the bends prevented the 2 units from sitting tight. Solved the problem at the bottom by bolting a couple more 2" brackets through to act as drawer stops (the bearing bolts did the rest along the bottom) and used my new clamp for the top. I'll bolt through where the clamp is when I get round to it.

    So, with struts in place it was time for a quick position check....

    P1010170.jpg

    The thin strips riveted across the top, front and back, are the main fix for the springyness from the curvy corners. Works a treat. The thin strips at the front across the bottom were temporary just to keep it in shape while I moved it about.

    Another shot of the first fitting...

    P1010168.jpg

    From here it was a case of seeing just how many times I could take the whole unit out, put it back in, take it out, put it back in... you get the picture. And I mean including struts. Quite often because the socket had fallen off on the last bolt - INSIDE the effin' tube. Joy. :|

    Next was to bolt the system to the struts. This is the bit I have been dreading. If the curvy corners were going to cause a big problem it was going to be now - what If I couldn't get it square??? :shock: I carried on one hole at a time. Measure measure measure. It's not easy finding the middle in a 120 as the sides are different shapes from each other. Finally I decided the most important point was getting the front straight. I centred it by eye using the markings on the plastic carpet holder-down-erer and jumped in.

    I marked a hole (starting in the middle), took the whole system out, drilled the hole, made a bigger hole in the underside of the strut and put everything back in. Then I moved onto the next hole. I'm so glad I slowed down and did it this way. It was the tiny adjustments that helped get the whole thing square in the end.

    Here it is... square! :thumbup:

    P1010171.jpg

    Out came the beer.

    The bar that looks like its hanging off of the front was my next plan. I'd already put a sheet of ply on top and sat on it - and wiggled a lot - and nothing moved - so I didn't need another support at the front - but I would need something to latch down into to keep drawers closed. Either to attach an eye for a locking bolt on the front face - or maybe a slam latch through a hole in the top face. Either way I've really been trying to make sure these went in as 2 independent units. Just in case something comes up and I need to ditch one... or simply because I decide I want something different on one side or the other. So I decided to make a front bar in 2 halves.

    Remember the screaming dinosaur hacksaw? Out it came.

    P1010172.jpg

    Once cut I clamped it in place to mark up for some holes. Made the holes. Bolted it in. For this I just used a long bolt going straight through both sides of the box section (held bolt underneath with spanner - socket on top).

    P1010176.jpg

    And a final shot with both front bars in place! :dance:

    P1010177.jpg

    Screaming dinosaw sneaking into the background there.

    Oh one more thing. Remember I got myself 30 bearings? Guess who needs 32. :lol:

    So far so good. Hopefully I'll get some time over the weekend. Still need to get all the bearings back in, make drawers and carpeted tops... then handles and locks I suppose. Taking a while - but worth it! :thumbup:
     
  5. fridayman

    fridayman Well-Known Member

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    Good thread. The trial and error that I go through on my truck makes me laugh sometimes. My current project is the rear door table - I am almost finished, got it all bolted in and looking fairly neat, except the top right corner catches on the pillar trim and now I can't open the door properly any more... but I have the whole weekend ahead of me and a new router to play with :)
     
  6. Sam

    Sam Well-Known Member

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    Cheers :thumbup:

    If you can't laugh about the mistakes it's just not worth doing - it's half the fun and the only way to "really" learn.
    At least that's my excuse :whistle:

    I'm planning to make the internal drawer dividers in the right drawer slightly lower than the left. That way I can sit a sheet of something inside the drawer - and hey presto - a table.

    It might work... :think:
     
  7. Ben

    Ben Well-Known Member Guru I am in australia

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    very impressive, looks spot on Sam! :clap:
     
  8. TonyP

    TonyP Super Moderator Supporter I am in uk

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    Looking good Sam, I can't wait to see the finished product, both yours and Ben's
     
  9. Gav Peter

    Gav Peter Well-Known Member I am in england

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    You've done well to hide all the blood stains Sam...

    :lol:
     
  10. Sam

    Sam Well-Known Member

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    Look what I got today...

    ply.jpg

    Getting closer. Had no time to do anything with it yet, but will be in the back everywhere I go this week. So whenever I get 5 mins I'll be marking and trimming :thumbup:
     
  11. fridayman

    fridayman Well-Known Member

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    With my door table pretty much done, you and Ben have inspired me to start on my drawers too. I've had a bit of a play on Sketchup, and got this far last night:

    RearDrawerssketch.jpg
     
  12. Sam

    Sam Well-Known Member

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    Looks exciting... another one in the mix... :thumbup: any progress on this FridayMan?

    Sorry for the delay... just not getting any time... but I have made a little bit of progress and here it is.

    On a side note first though... I bought a grinder yesterday! Exactly 24 hours after I cut my last bit of metal for the drawer system with my 4 quid hacksaw :lol: ... won't go into why I needed it because it's not LC related - but the irony! Got one now though so well chuffed playing with sparks for the first time in years :clap:

    Less words more pics... I hear ya :lol:

    Next step was building the actual drawers... basic shapes in place...

    P1010223.jpg

    As you can see... so far everything is in line... I left the "temporary" straps across the front because they have been proving useful for the time being as I'll show in a bit... next up another one of the same thing from a different angle... because... well because I can :lol:

    P1010215.jpg

    I'll probably replace the bolts holding the runner on with something a little less intrusive inside the drawer - but I was getting desperate to see something take shape... getting tired of the irony that is a whole load of stuff rolling around in the back that's supposed to be a drawer system to stop things rolling about in the back!!!!

    Proof that they basically work...

    P1010217.jpg

    Yup.. spent a loooooong time standing there just opening it, smiling like a fool, closing it, smiling like a fool, opening it... you get the idea :roll:

    Here's why I left the "temp" straps in place at the front... simply a happy accident that they sagged when I fixed it all in place making a make-shift drawer stop for while I was working... I'll replace them eventually with something "proper"...

    P1010221.jpg

    Fronts needed next so on they went...

    P1010226.jpg

    In line and everything :thumbup: :lol:

    P1010227.jpg

    Ok not the screws - but there's gonna be carpet on them there beauties!

    Just to make sure they were strong enough I stepped the back of the drawer (and the bottom) in a little bit. I put enough screws in the whole thing to sink a ship - but thought a few extra furniture blocks for added strength wouldn't hurt - belt and braces and all that... the ply is thick but still pretty soft.

    P1010228.jpg

    And that's about as far as I've got. Did get the jigsaw out and cut one of the wings to contour around the side but I'll post pics of them when they are finished. Just out of curiosity... how do you fellas draw that line? I'll show you what I did in the next post and see how much I complicated things!

    Sat what will become the tops in place just to get a feel for it - but it's going to look a whole lot better when the wings are in flush up to the edges :thumbup:

    P1010230.jpg

    ......................

    Which brings me to the "where's the Sam special mistakes" bit.

    Well, :lol: the bendy corners in the frame did get me. Whatever you do follow Ben's technique for this. Or at least something more reliable than standing on the cable trays "hoping" for a tight bend. One the drawers were in place I realised I had not accounted for the curved corners when I bolted it all down - resulting in the back being slightly wider than the front.... by slightly I mean exactly 3.5000001mm each side. That adds up to exactly .000001mm wider than a bearing once you push the drawer all the way over to one side at the back. It fell off the bearing. :lol:

    Not a problem though. Simply added a couple of washers behind each bearing at the back and all is well in drawer land. :dance: Once the second back stop bracket is in place (you can see one in the pics) it will stop the drawers from being able to twist anyway so probably would of been ok anyway... in fact - putting the fronts on probably solved it :think:

    Anyway - that's solved... I'm sure I'll find something else to add to the fun - but for now.... I'm pretty pleased!

    Unless I've missed something obvious of course???? :whistle:
     
  13. Justin_Elliott

    Justin_Elliott Well-Known Member Supporter I am in great_britain

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    Looks very tidy...

    Are you planning on sealing the drawers prior to putting the carpet on?
     
  14. Sam

    Sam Well-Known Member

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    Yes probably am... if for no other reason than to seal in some of the ply glue fumes radiating around now :lol:

    All suggestions of best stuff to use are welcome. I'm thinking simple low odour wood varnish at the mo... any takers on something better? Paint?
     
  15. Gary Stockton

    Gary Stockton Super Moderator Supporter I am in zimbabwe

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    Very nice, Sam - you taking orders yet? :cool:
     
  16. Sam

    Sam Well-Known Member

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    Yeah of course Gary - all orders welcome!

    Haven't worked out the exact price yet but I will need your truck for approx. 6 months for fitting :lol:

    In all seriousness though, starting from scratch this system would be really pretty cheap, fast and easy to knock up - as Ben proved straight off! Don't know what all the fuss was about :lol:
     
  17. Gary Stockton

    Gary Stockton Super Moderator Supporter I am in zimbabwe

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    yeah, well, you know - I managed to pull the front off my one drawer in the Pyrenees, so I'm pleased to see you've used plenty of screws :clap:

    I'll have another go in the summer - I like the metal frames though :thumbup:
     
  18. Justin_Elliott

    Justin_Elliott Well-Known Member Supporter I am in great_britain

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    I was looking for ideas... :lol: - I'd have thought an oil would work best, like Danish oil? I'e soak into the wood rather than add to the surface... but may not help you stick stuff to it (like carpet). But having not used anything like this for years, I would take that suggestion with a pinch of salt.

    Where did you get the no-hole cable track from again? Ok, I'm sure its been mentioned, and yes I've tried to see it in the previous posts, but its not jumping out at me.... :roll:

    Tempting, be careful for what you offer... :think:
     
  19. Sam

    Sam Well-Known Member

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    Cable trays came from City Electrical Factors after a tip from Chris. www.cef.co.uk

    Just phone up your local one and ask them to supply one without holes. Costs a couple of quid more but not much. They will supply them to be picked up from your local CEF within a few days.

    Think before you jump though. Ben implemented it using the normal ones with holes very successfully. If you use the ones without holes you have to be really precise with drilling for the bearings. I drilled mine using a tiny bit then worked up through the sizes 'til I got big enough holes.... and just got lucky :lol: ... If you use the trays with holes pre-drilled most of the work is done for you.

    If I started again I'd still go with the ones I've got - but that's just a preference thing really. Not sure there's any real benefit - just like 'em!

    @Gary - Yeah could see that one coming with the fronts so doubled up :lol:

    Getting excited about making some kind of slam latch fitting into the bars across the bottom front. No idea how or with what yet but just got a feeling it's going to be cool - or at the least funny!
     
  20. Justin_Elliott

    Justin_Elliott Well-Known Member Supporter I am in great_britain

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    :thumbup: I did see the recommendation from Chris, but I didn't realise they did them without holes!

    Thanks!
     
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