First LC - HJ60 or LJ70? (update)

[Arild]

My new license plates will arrive this week so i can finaly hit the road. My first trip wil be to a small local garage for 4x4 toyota's only. It's still a 40min drive so we'll see how he hold on beyond 70km/u.

I called them and they can provide me the parts i need.

 

[StarCruiser]

Hi Arild and (a belated) Welcome. There’s quite a few 4 Runners over here as imports known as Hi Lux Surf.

For your electrical issues it may be worth checking the drivers door wiring at the hinge as that’s a possible place for broken wires being the most used door. If you mean the very back (tailgate) window then again, check the wiring through the hinge area. If it’s the same as others there will be a connector on the main body side of the wiring that will pull through the hole for the rubber if you remove it carefully. One test is to get someone to hold the switch and wiggle the wiring. Nick probably has the answer but if not check the wiring at the hinges.

 

[Arild]

If you mean the very back (tailgate) window then again, check the wiring through the hinge area. If it’s the same as others there will be a connector on the main body side of the wiring that will pull through the hole for the rubber if you remove it carefully.

I totally forgot this one! The are ton's of topics on the internet about a broken tailgate window and an equally amount of fixes. It's not the wiper, not the switch, not the window lock, not the motor, and no rust on the inside... So i was out of options.

Checking now... I hope it's not a faulty grey relay box.

 

[StarCruiser]

Fingers crossed. It could even be a wrong connector used in the loom as Ben found on his 70. No idea if that’s possible on yours. Make sure wiring is disconnected both ends if you get around to checking continuity with a multimeter on Ohms as you can get back feeds through the motors etc in the door.

 

[Arild]

I removed the drivers-side door panel and the wires seem to be ok. But i noticed a 'flickering' in the door-lights (the one under the arm rest) when i open and close the door. This could indicate in faulty wires after all.

Also, since yesterday none of the windows work. No power windows in front and rear. The fuse is intact so i'm going to remove the door panel and dashboard panel under the steering wheel to inspect the wires and fusebox more thoroughly.

 

[moggy1968]

I removed the drivers-side door panel and the wires seem to be ok. But i noticed a 'flickering' in the door-lights (the one under the arm rest) when i open and close the door. This could indicate in faulty wires after all.

Also, since yesterday none of the windows work. No power windows in front and rear. The fuse is intact so i'm going to remove the door panel and dashboard panel under the steering wheel to inspect the wires and fusebox more thoroughly.

Main relay?

 

[Arild]

Nop, not the main relay. I found something else...

And some sloppy wiring from PO.

So i spend the morning cutting and soldering wires. The windows work again. I'm happy.

 

[StarCruiser]

Nice one Arild. Where was the break in the first photo located?

 

[Arild]

Like you said, at the hinge on the left drivers door. Spot on.

Next thing: transmission. He jumps out of 1st sometimes.

 

[Arild]

Ok, it has been a while but i'm back with a new question.

A lot has changed since i had this light 4runner truck:

- fixed all electrical problems but one (still can't get the back-window down with key)
- completely new cooling system/hoses
- installed new radiator
- removed A/C system (i need maximum airlow for radiator)
- cleaned air-intake valve, circuit, hoses, things... (don't know the english term)
- some other little things
(more on this on T4R.org)

But we're not there yet

This is a guestion for all 2L-T owners:
I made a good deal on five 16" rims with '2000km-new' BFG T/A. Size of the tires is 235/85/16 which is +80cm in diameter.
Is the 91hp 2L-T powerfull enough to get this tires spinnin?

Thanks,
Arild.

 

[nielsc]

Depends on the gearing the 4 runner has? The LJ’s have 4.88 and I know a lot of people that run 35” with their LJ70. You’d want to turn up the fuel and boost a bit, and adjust the boost compensator tough.

 

[Arild]

Yeah, about that gearing... It's something i not fully understand yet. I know the 3vze and 2lt share the same gearbox (r150f).

edit: I think it's 4.56 diff ratio but i need to confirm that.

 

[nielsc]

Don't worry, you'll be fine

 

[Arild]

Back from our first 2000km trip with the new old 4runner and it was great. Engine is running fine. No overheating problems, only a little smoke in the alpes (italy) with cold engine at 1800m and 8c outside temp.

You can read all about it at toyota-4runner.org forum if you want.

So, with the engine running fine, it's time to focus on suspension. I need new shocks and rear coils anyway so I have a 2" suspension lift in mind.

I need new:
2 rear coils
2 rear shocks
2 front shocks
2 heavy duty torsion bars
2 ball joint spacers

I have every thing sorted out but i can't find the BJ spacers in Belgium. Why are these so hard to find in Europe? Or are my search-skills that bad? There are many, many websites that sell BJ spacers but they are all from america.

Can someone please provide me with some info on where to find ball joint spacers for a 1992 LN130 4runner?

Another option is a 2" body lift and keep the suspension at stock height.

 

[Shayne]

Same suspension as the 90 series i believe and we all run a 2" lift without ball joint spacers no problems at all .

I wanted more lift so i run +2" suspension and a 2" body lift on my 90 .

 

[Paddler Ed]

Same suspension as the 90 series I believe and we all run a 2" lift without ball joint spacers no problems at all .

I wanted more lift so i run +2" suspension and a 2" body lift on my 90 .

Not that generation - Arlid's generation is the same as the same era Hilux with IFS on the front (rears are unique to them as they're coils)

Next one is the same as a 90 series Land Cruiser

 

[Arild]

Indeed. IFS in front with Cools in the back.

They sell lift kits without BJ spacers and just heavy duty torsion bars with extended shocks so i'm not sure if i need the spacers at all.

 

[Shayne]

Beau where for art thou for you know more about Surf to 90 compatible parts than anyone me thinks .

I have front upper control arms designed an American 4runner which is the earlier model Surf we got i think . And yeah the 90 is IFS front coil rear , front diffs are interchangeable to , but alas i don't have the confidence to say for sure what year of surf/4runner is the same as the 90 (which are all the same regardless of year) .

 

[fbnss]

Beau where for art thou for you know more about Surf to 90 compatible parts than anyone me thinks .

I have front upper control arms designed an American 4runner which is the earlier model Surf we got i think . And yeah the 90 is IFS front coil rear , front diffs are interchangeable to , but alas i don't have the confidence to say for sure what year of surf/4runner is the same as the 90 (which are all the same regardless of year) .

I think is was the third gen surf which was similar to a 90. The 2nd gens were based on the hilux

 

[Arild]

It's a Hilux with a trunk instead of a bed, 5 seater and some more luxurious (for that time) interiour. Rest of the hardware is almost exactly the same as the Hilux.

But how do i lift that IFS? I need to replace the shocks and coils. The rear is sagging a lot. So why not lifting her at the same time...

As i said, the goal is a mild 2" lift so i can fit my 32" tires (235/85/R16)
Basic questions:

I don't need BJ spacers if i buy upgraded torsion bars.
I don't need to drop the diff if i stay at/under 2" lift.

Are these statements correct?

This is the lift-kit from roughtrax i had in mind.