First problem.....auto box

[Steve-o1987]

Haven’t posted in a while due to lambing underway on the farm now

Anyway first problem on my truck 2001 collie 3.0 d4d Auto 164k miles. Once up to operating temperature and coming to a stop there is hesitation in the auto box for pulling away. Best way to describe this is it will rev for a few seconds then kick in OR it will crawl slowly a few seconds then kick down and away it goes.

just today I’ve finally got round to doing my service with genuine parts this included timing kit, water pump all usual filters. Fluids, greased the prop and usual parts. Drained out what I could of the ATF and new went in - this hasn’t solved problem. The fluid that came out didn’t look too bad.

things I can rule out 100% is the radiator is fairly new and there is no leaking contaminating the ATF.

I’ve pretty limited knowledge with this being my first cruiser, could replacing the suction control valves on the pump solve this? Or possible something to do with an Earth? Other than this I’m stumped with my knowledge and hope it isn’t a rebuild jobby as the truck is mint grrr. Any help massively appreciated chaps, thanks.

 

[Beau]

Is this just a problem on take off? Did the fluid change change the trans behavior at all? Does the car drive perfectly fine once moving?

There is a earth wire for the trans near the oil filter housing. At least this is the case on the 1KZ model. Make sure this wire looks good. I'd have a look at all wires whilst you're at it. You can check the torque converter by left foot breaking, and mashing the throttle. It should hold at a certain RPM, 1800? Someone can confirm this?

 

[wobbly]

It could be the clutchs have previously been contaminated.

Why does it have a recently new radiator, did you do this, or buy it like it?

 

[AdventureWagon]

Still the same behaviour (with reduced torque) if you try 2nd start? Still same if you move off in L instead of D?

TBH though I think you need to take it to a transmission specialist, one that knows old school autos instead of a CVT replacer!

 

[Steve-o1987]

Is this just a problem on take off? Did the fluid change change the trans behavior at all? Does the car drive perfectly fine once moving?

There is a earth wire for the trans near the oil filter housing. At least this is the case on the 1KZ model. Make sure this wire looks good. I'd have a look at all wires whilst you're at it. You can check the torque converter by left foot breaking, and mashing the throttle. It should hold at a certain RPM, 1800? Someone can confirm this?

yes just on take off, once going the car drives normally. Also after changing the atf still same behaviour. I’m gonna have a check about the earth wires tomorrow, clutching at straws it’s something simple!

 

[wobbly]

Did you replace the rad, or the previous owner?

 

[Steve-o1987]

Did you replace the rad, or the previous owner?

previous owner, there was a small crack on the radiator. This was found by Toyota, as part of pre sale checks and fresh mot the previous owner had done.

 

[Steve-o1987]

Still the same behaviour (with reduced torque) if you try 2nd start? Still same if you move off in L instead of D?

TBH though I think you need to take it to a transmission specialist, one that knows old school autos instead of a CVT replacer!

I haven’t tried that yet, will see tomorrow morning. Yeah I’m kind of thinking the same,

 

[AdventureWagon]

I haven’t tried that yet, will see tomorrow morning. Yeah I’m kind of thinking the same,

These autos also work in a kind of manual mode if you disconnect the three pin connector then it becomes a 3 speed manual, L is 1st, 2 is 2nd, D is 4th. Would not recommend using this for anything but testing, but if the box is ok in this mode you could have a solenoid, wiring, ECU, or earthing issue.

 

[Steve-o1987]

These autos also work in a kind of manual mode if you disconnect the three pin connector then it becomes a 3 speed manual, L is 1st, 2 is 2nd, D is 4th. Would not recommend using this for anything but testing, but if the box is ok in this mode you could have a solenoid, wiring, ECU, or earthing issue.

just tested this here now, pulled off no problem doing this after truck was fully warmed up. Hoping that’s a good sign the box isn’t done for. Looks like I’ll have to book in with a specialist come Monday for this

 

[AdventureWagon]

just tested this here now, pulled off no problem doing this after truck was fully warmed up. Hoping that’s a good sign the box isn’t done for. Looks like I’ll have to book in with a specialist come Monday for this

That's good news, any reason you waited until fully warm or just your modus operandi?

 

[Steve-o1987]

That's good news, any reason you waited until fully warm or just your modus operandi?

Well when cold the box shifts fine, it’s only once it’s had a good run and warm the hesitation starts after coming to a stop and pulling off again

 

[AdventureWagon]

Well when cold the box shifts fine, it’s only once it’s had a good run and warm the hesitation starts after coming to a stop and pulling off again

Sorry yes you did mention that.

 

[Steve-o1987]

Just an update on the Auto box incase anyone is interested and having similar issues. Booked into a specialist and their diagnosis was a full rebuild at a cost of £3k no explanation as to why or further details and this was from a supposed very reputable garage! Anyway I disagreed with this and looked for a second opinion which became very difficult ( thanks Coronavirus) nearly all garages near me are closed!

anyway managed to get it in with a guy who has experience working on cruisers and he confirmed he didn’t think a full rebuild was needed at all. After more investigation he’s diagnosis is a fault with solenoid A. He’s working on it tomorrow. So hopefully back in action in a day or 2 without a 3k bill. Fingers crossed

 

[AdventureWagon]

@Steve-o1987 that's good news to hear, think some people see an older car and then immediately assume the trans needs a rebuild. Well done for getting second opinion. Certainly worth trying the solenoids as you'll also get a trans service at the same time I assume, and will cost a lot less than GBP3k. Anyway good luck mate hope you get it back on the road soon and back doing some decent trips once the corona stuff is over.

 

[cbv8]

Hi Steve,
Did you get your gearbox sorted?

 

[Steve-o1987]

I did yes, one of the solenoids were bad. So whilst the transmission was in surgery I decided to get all them changed ( maybe overkill ) but thought at the mileage and since one was at fault thought I may aswell get them all done.
The guy that did the job said he’s seen on the same model minor things like bad earthing or wire harness etc can cause the same issues too.

 

[cbv8]

Hi Steve,
My collie had the same symptoms ie it would have reverse when cold then when warm would loose reverse all the forward gears work perfectly an auto transmission technician chap said try transmission conditioner as reverse seal/o ring goes sloppy and it may harden the seal up? It actually seems to have worked at the moment time will tell if you don't mind me asking was the work expensive and did the box have to be removed as for piece of mind i will probably get the repairs done as i travel on the motorway to Devon quite a lot so want all reliable

 

[ren]

Box does not need removing. You can access from the bottom. Easy to replace the solenoids. No idea of the price though. Sorry. I got gaskets for my valve body from here IIRC www.sussexautos.co.uk so they may do the solenoids. www.automaticchoice.com look like they probably do the solenoids.

 

[cbv8]

Thanks Ren