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Found an LC4 But

Matthew1955

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Having been searching on line I have found an LC4 I like but it has a bit of a chequered MOT history with a few problem,could any of you good people out thee advise me on if I should be particulary concerned and what the replacment/repair cost might be,the car is a 2005 with 85K on the clock,it has a FSH.

2011 at 56K Pass with advisory
  • Rear Brake pad(s) wearing thin (3.5.1g)
  • Nearside Front Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c)
  • Offside Front Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c)
  • Oil leak
2012 at 65k Fail
Offside Front Upper Suspension arm has excessive play in a ball joint,Passed the next day
Advisory ATF Fluid leak
2013 at 72K Pass
Advisory
  • Nearside Front Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c)
  • Offside Front Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c)

2015 at 83600 Pass with Advisory
  • Nearside Front Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c)
  • Offside Front Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c)
  • Nearside Rear Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c)
  • Offside Rear Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c)
  • Front Exhaust has a minor leak of exhaust gases (7.1.2)
2016 at 83700 Fail
Nearside Front Upper Suspension arm ball joint dust cover excessively deteriorated so that it no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (2.4.G.2)
Advisory ATF Fluid leak
Passed the next day

So the car has had a number of issues most of which have been corrected but has had and still has the ATF Fluid leak and I am not to sure about the four slightly corroded brake pipes.

I look forward to hearing members thoughts,

Thanks Matthew
 
My only comment is, when I get mot advisorys I sort out the issues quite quickly, I want a reliable car
So I would personally avoid one where issues kept coming up in mot history and were not rectified, suggests owner hasn't looked after car as well as I would
 
Having been searching on line I have found an LC4 I like but it has a bit of a chequered MOT history with a few problem,could any of you good people out thee advise me on if I should be particulary concerned and what the replacment/repair cost might be,the car is a 2005 with 85K on the clock,it has a FSH.

2011 at 56K Pass with advisory
  • Rear Brake pad(s) wearing thin (3.5.1g)
  • Nearside Front Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c)
  • Offside Front Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c)
  • Oil leak
2012 at 65k Fail
Offside Front Upper Suspension arm has excessive play in a ball joint,Passed the next day
Advisory ATF Fluid leak
2013 at 72K Pass
Advisory
  • Nearside Front Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c)
  • Offside Front Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c)

2015 at 83600 Pass with Advisory
  • Nearside Front Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c)
  • Offside Front Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c)
  • Nearside Rear Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c)
  • Offside Rear Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c)
  • Front Exhaust has a minor leak of exhaust gases (7.1.2)
2016 at 83700 Fail
Nearside Front Upper Suspension arm ball joint dust cover excessively deteriorated so that it no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (2.4.G.2)
Advisory ATF Fluid leak
Passed the next day

So the car has had a number of issues most of which have been corrected but has had and still has the ATF Fluid leak and I am not to sure about the four slightly corroded brake pipes.

I look forward to hearing members thoughts,

Thanks Matthew

It doesn't surprise me, I looked at a 2004 LC4 with 40K miles and it looked like it had been in the sea underneath. There are tons of these for sale at any one time and they are all pretty old. Take your time and be picky, a whole raft of these are well overpriced so don't go mad.
 
It very much depends on how level of corrosion.

Of you think the car is what you want pay for a proper inspection from the AA or RAC. Worth it in the long run if you can't make the judgement.

For me I wouldn't say that was a chequered history at all.
 
The above said and accepted, brake pipes and ball joints are something basic which don't break the bank, and they're often a DIY repair if you're a but handy.

The killers are chassis and body rot, again not insurmountable, but undesirable if there's an alternative truck available.

As for an ATF leak, it depends on where it's leaking from. It could be as simple as a new copper washer on a drain plug, or a relatively simple oil seal change.

As said, you need more detailed advice, I'd also suggest an AA report or something similar, a knowledgable mate for instance.
 
It doesn't surprise me, I looked at a 2004 LC4 with 40K miles and it looked like it had been in the sea underneath. There are tons of these for sale at any one time and they are all pretty old. Take your time and be picky, a whole raft of these are well overpriced so don't go mad.

Also check every single electrical function works.
 
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Thanks for your replies guys,on your advice I will definitely get an inspection done especially as I would not really know what to look out for plus I am 250 miles away from where the car is .Having never had one done before is there any particuar one,AA,3 levels of insection or RAC again 3 level of inspection that I should go for.Sorry for all the questions but this will be the first used car I have had since I was in my twenties.

If I was to get a good deal and then had the brake pipe work done by my mechanic neighbour is there a good place to get LC parts from.

Thanks again

Matthew
 
Don't close the door on the lc5. You may find they are better looked after and have had an easier past life. Also the 120 is new enough that a lot of 1 prev owner options are still possible.
 
I have now found another car but in June 2013 it passed its MOT with no advisories,it had another MOT test in August 2013 so two months later and failed with a minor headlamp alignment and an advisory of play in steering rack inner joint,the car then passed 3 day and 17 miles later with no advisories.Can anyone advise why a car would have 3 MOT's within a space of 2 mths
 
Did the vehicle change ownership between June and August 2013 ?
 
For me, i need to go see the car, meet the seller. I normally can tell within the first five minutes if its a car thats worth bothering with. and if its advertised as full service history i expect to see full service history with all invoices for works carried out.
I know you are doing the ground work first to save traveling to a potential duffer. but you may miss a genuine LC too. Good ones dont hang around long.
 
For me, i need to go see the car, meet the seller. I normally can tell within the first five minutes if its a car thats worth bothering with. and if its advertised as full service history i expect to see full service history with all invoices for works carried out.
I know you are doing the ground work first to save traveling to a potential duffer. but you may miss a genuine LC too. Good ones dont hang around long.
I fully appreciate what you are saying but so far all the potential cars are at least a 400mile round trip.This is one of the problems with living in such a remote place,anything you want is always along way away.I really want to avoid driving 250miles,which this one is, to look at the car and find its a duff un and then the 250 home but I guess I dont really have a choice.
 
Hi,
I looked on AutoTrader for you and the nearest I could find for you is about 100 miles away with 106k on the clock for 10k. Price seems to be fairly proportional to mileage done, Lower mileage, higher price.

When you do get your LC get the underside/chassis treated and undersealed. I had had mine for about 5 years before I did and JUST caught it in time. In the end the rust treatment cost about £600 + vat.

It's a manual and is now due a new clutch. The release bearing is really noisy, but then it has been making a noise (not much) for 6 years. Toyota quote £1350 for the job. Overland Cruisers are doing the job for £250 in parts plus about 6 hours at £60/hr.

Bear in mind that 2006 and younger will cost you £520 in annual tax, whereas a 2004/5 will cost £305 per annum.
 
You can also ask on here if someone is local to the truck you want to see for a quick look to see if its worth the traveling to go and see it.
 
...or on the other hand, make a holiday of it. Get a list of vehicles that you are interested in and take a week or so to tour round looking at them. Takes the pressure off travelling to see a car and then shall I or shan't I buy it. Then if you decide not you are wondering all the way home whether you should have done.

I suspect that the cheaper vehicles are going to be at the extremities of the country i.e. up north or down in Cornwall.
 
Hi,
I looked on AutoTrader for you and the nearest I could find for you is about 100 miles away with 106k on the clock for 10k. Price seems to be fairly proportional to mileage done, Lower mileage, higher price.

When you do get your LC get the underside/chassis treated and undersealed. I had had mine for about 5 years before I did and JUST caught it in time. In the end the rust treatment cost about £600 + vat.

It's a manual and is now due a new clutch. The release bearing is really noisy, but then it has been making a noise (not much) for 6 years. Toyota quote £1350 for the job. Overland Cruisers are doing the job for £250 in parts plus about 6 hours at £60/hr.

Bear in mind that 2006 and younger will cost you £520 in annual tax, whereas a 2004/5 will cost £305 per annum.
Hi Bricomp,I appreciate your looking and will definitely take your advice and get it treated.Going on your experience it sound like it is well worth shopping around when getting work done.I really need to learn a different mind set when having an aged car.

Thanks again
 
You can also ask on here if someone is local to the truck you want to see for a quick look to see if its worth the traveling to go and see it.
Thanks for that suggestion and I may well ask if and when I get to that stage.I have been having discussions with one particular dealer and it sound promising so will post how it goes.
 
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