Front and Rear "shock" replacement

4 Paw Drive Jun 12, 2018

  1. 4 Paw Drive

    4 Paw Drive New Member I am in scotland

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    Hi,

    I'm looking to put new "shocks" for the AHC suspension on my 2001, 100 HDJ . I am at this moment going down the road of putting Mr T ones back in so the AHC still works with confort/ sport setting, but may reconsider following others thoughts.

    I have been through the Max Ellery manual and this has conflicting info for front and rear removal and also trawled the Mud forum but still have concerns.

    The Ellery advice for the front removal is, to drop the ride height whilst the wheels are on the ground to low and switch off the engine. Then jack up and remove the 2 nuts holding the AHC linkage to the top of the shock then remove the top 22mm "shock" nut and then bottom nut, remove the old one put in the new.

    Question is, by dropping the vehicle to the low setting, will this release the pressure in the system or does it still require bleeding at the back of the spheres?

    Also on removal of the rear shocks, there is no mention of dropping the suspension to release the pressure which doesn't seem right?

    Any guidance would be appreciated.

    Thanks

    4 Paw Drive
     
  2. uHu

    uHu Well-Known Member I am in sri_lanka

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    Probably, the question is flawed and you don't need to consider it.
    There wouldn't be any reason to change the shocks unless they are leaking (in which case there wouldn't any pressure left) or they are rusted so badly that they wont last another month. Which reason is yours?
    And I suppose that with "shock", you mean the object that looks like a shock absorber, but actually is just a hydraulic ram for the AHC suspension system.

    But, to your actual Qs:
    First, forget about Max Ellery or Haynes for this car. They are so full of errors and inaccuracies that you are in great risk of destroying something. The Factory Service Manual is very good though.

    The pipes in the ahc system are under a very high pressure, and should always be bled off before undoing anything. In theory the pressure to the shocks is zero after letting it down to Low, but I would still open the bleeder before undoing any pipe, hose or sphere. (Although, after dropping to Low and then jacking up on the frame, would give a vacuum in the pipe actually). And it would be the same for front and rear, and also separate for front and rear btw.
    One thing that is good to know on beforehand, is that the tops of the rear shocks are very hard to get to. Some people actually drill a hole in the floor just above the shock to put a 22 mm socket through.

    But, back to the big question. Why would you want to change the shocks?
     
    GeekOKent likes this.
  3. Shayne

    Shayne Well-Known Member Guru

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    Its not something i know anything about but i believe some rather than fix the AHC prefer to remove it and fit traditional suspension instead .
     
  4. 4 Paw Drive

    4 Paw Drive New Member I am in scotland

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    Shane, uHu,

    The rest of the systems in pretty good nick so unless something is really untoward i plan to keep the AHC system, will know better when i start stripping bits off.

    uhu, you've pretty much nailed it, front drivers has had a leak, (basically misting for the last 5 years, it keeps coming up on its MOT as an advisory) usually wipe it clean with a cloth before she goes in and thats enough to get the pass, and keep topping up the AHC reservior.
    The rear passenger is about rusted right through to so although everything else is working fine just wanted to sort, once and for all.

    I'll bleed the system to release pressure and see how getting the rear one out goes. Not adversed to cutting the floor but will give the working from outside a shot first.

    Thanks for your replies.

    4 Paw Drive
     
  5. uHu

    uHu Well-Known Member I am in sri_lanka

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    That sounds good then. I do like the system as well, and have stacked up on spares to keep it going.
    Just remember to remove the spare wheel before attempting the rears. I have seen that some prefer to use a 22 mm flex-head rachet spanner for the top nut. It is also possible to lift the body from the frame an inch or so for better access. Rusted body-bolts can get in the way for that tho'.
     
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