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FZJ80 dies going round corners!!!

cmcmill01

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Folks got a problem with the truck, starts and idles ok, I drive off and the truck warms up, and drives ok for a while.
Soon later, if I brake and slow so the revs drop the car stalls, this has happened a few times how, losing the power steering around a corner is a nightmare!!!

It looks like the truck if it warmed up and I don't have the foot on the accelerator it will idle very rough and then die.

I have noticed this happening since the return from Iceland but a short drive tonight scared the bejesus out of me!!

Any ideas would be very welcome, remember it's a petrol.
Cheers
Craig
 
First thoughts would be fuel starvation. Dirty filter, dirty pick up or perhaps air getting in? Not familiar with the 4.5 petrol engine but those things are pretty universal.
 
Iceland. River crossings. Petrol engine..

water related maybe? Ht leads, dissy cap? Other things petrols dont like when water is added.
 
Thanks Guys, my thoughts are maybe air getting in somewhere, but also Iceland has definitely taken its toll, a few other problems as well, but will try and get this one sorted first!!

The hose going into the engine at the top is showing a oil leak and a small crack, but it's been like that for a while!!
 
As said check for an air leak, engine breather pipes etc. Split air intake pipe after the air flow meter. Have you picked up some rubbish fuel/ water in the fuel tank, taking a fuel sample from a fuel line and letting it settle should show that.
Idle air control valve sticking.
There's a little valve in the cam cover, it's for the engine breather which goes to the inlet manifold they can cause problems.

After it stalls will it re start, how does it run above idle?
 
I think I would replace the distributor cap and arm first. Make sure you dry out any moisture in there. I've successfully used WD 40 in the past. You can look for HT lead faults in the dark (sparks) and a fine water mist from a garden sprayer can induce the fault if sprayed in small areas to isolate it.
 
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Lots of good ideas, need to get sometime to check them out, any good advice on removing the dist cap??
 
So replaced the 2 hoses on top, I knew one of them has had a crack for a while as it has leaked some oil over the engine.

IMG_3516.JPG

The throttle cable cover is slightly damaged but again it's been like that for a while.
IMG_3517.JPG
IMG_3518.JPG


Car is throwing up code 21, which means O2 sensors, but I am nearly sure they have gone a long time ago and some weren't even connected.
 
As said check for an air leak, engine breather pipes etc. Split air intake pipe after the air flow meter. Have you picked up some rubbish fuel/ water in the fuel tank, taking a fuel sample from a fuel line and letting it settle should show that.
Idle air control valve sticking.
There's a little valve in the cam cover, it's for the engine breather which goes to the inlet manifold they can cause problems.

After it stalls will it re start, how does it run above idle?
Gary,
Where is the idle control valve? And also the valve in the cam cover??
If you keep the revs above say 1200 rpm it sits there fine, as soon as you take your foot of the accelerator it goes low on the revs and then dies.

Could the idle position be set incorrectly??
 
O2 faults can be caused by air leaks.

On the pic I've highlighted the breather valve and the idle control valve.

20170916_131414.jpg


Idle valves are good at sticking or getting gunked up. Worth a look if runs ok off idle
 
Thanks Gary, replaced the cable on the breather valve which had gunk around it, so will have another look, also the idle valve.

I have looked at the Dist cap all nice and dry inside, and also the TPS works mechanically well and nice spring back to position. Was think that the throttle cable could also be an option, as it looks in bad state.
What is the cable beside the throttle cable??
 
the 2 pipes that go from the cam cover to the inlet manifold, make sure not blocked at the manifold end.
Pipes from the fuel tank breather canister to manifold for splits.
Egr valve for sticking. Would start with the idle valve though.

Other cable is cruise control

Just to add if change the little breather in the cam cover, the seal will most likely be hard and brittle, watch for bits dropping in.
 
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Found this, now the question is, did this happen when I removed it, or is this the problem!!!
Don't think I did it, need to get a new 1 on order!!

IMG_3520.JPG
IMG_3521.JPG
 
Fitted the new hose and everything is running again, idle rpm is still a little low but will pull the fuse on the ECU to see if that changes anything, thanks for the help folks, now onto the next issue rust!!!
 
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