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God help this truck
- Thread starter JakeM
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Axle turrets are on the buyers checklist as a known issue - which you have now corrected .
I'm not sure how the prop could fail even with broken turrets because it's designed to move with the pretty extreme flex the rear axle is capable of so i have to imagine a UJ is on its way out , and if its been that way for a while the resulting vibration might have caused the pinion seal to fail . A new UJ is about 20 quid and an inexperienced first timer could change it in an hour .
Brakes is brakes - pull it apart and have a look .
Roll bar bushes are very likely to be your front end clank and changing them couldn't be easier than it is even if it was made by Lego .
I'm not sure how the prop could fail even with broken turrets because it's designed to move with the pretty extreme flex the rear axle is capable of so i have to imagine a UJ is on its way out , and if its been that way for a while the resulting vibration might have caused the pinion seal to fail . A new UJ is about 20 quid and an inexperienced first timer could change it in an hour .
Brakes is brakes - pull it apart and have a look .
Roll bar bushes are very likely to be your front end clank and changing them couldn't be easier than it is even if it was made by Lego .
Gav missin
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Gav missin
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I had what seemed like small amount of play on my hilux Ujs Jake and that caused terrible backlash on the clutch leading me to think far more was wrong than actually was. As Shayne said there easy to change and can make a world of difference. The whole truck would vibrate as certain revs.Could not believe the difference a new set made. Keep the faith
Gav missin
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No
not something I've come across to be honest. The prop should as I'm sure you know be tight fitting on the splines. Definitely worth whipping the prop off to have a look. Not a massive job. Wonder could internal wear on the slider also cause transmission issue you are having
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I'm not sure what you mean by play and you will forgive me for not going out into the rain wearing a bathrobe to have a look at mine i hope .
The point of a prop is that its a fluid thing , a mechanical elastic band if you like , if it were solid your axle could not move without smashing your transfer box so all it is is a a solid splined bar inside a hollow splined tube with a swivel at either end .
Unless you bend the thing by landing on a big rock it really can't fail in any major way . But because it spins so fast a minor imbalance can convince you there is a major problem somewhere .
When my uj began to fail a sixth sense told me something was wrong and 4 hours at 70+ on a motorway made objects in the rear view mirror a blur so obviously it was getting worse . On arrival at my destination i greased the uj which helped a bit then made the same journey home .
I bet your uj's are as old as your truck , and the broken axle mounts have recently had them working harder than ever before .
The point of a prop is that its a fluid thing , a mechanical elastic band if you like , if it were solid your axle could not move without smashing your transfer box so all it is is a a solid splined bar inside a hollow splined tube with a swivel at either end .
Unless you bend the thing by landing on a big rock it really can't fail in any major way . But because it spins so fast a minor imbalance can convince you there is a major problem somewhere .
When my uj began to fail a sixth sense told me something was wrong and 4 hours at 70+ on a motorway made objects in the rear view mirror a blur so obviously it was getting worse . On arrival at my destination i greased the uj which helped a bit then made the same journey home .
I bet your uj's are as old as your truck , and the broken axle mounts have recently had them working harder than ever before .
You say the garage have 'pulled the prop apart and greased it'. This can only be the splined slider as you'd never get the UJs out and back. Have they aligned it correctly when putting it back together? You say it has play side to side? The only movement it should have is fore and aft like a bycicle pump which would be limited by what it is attached to. Any play in the spline rotationally or transversely would indicate wear. Sounds to me like you need a second hand one. I think the guy to talk to is @karlwebster on here who is in contact with a chap called Steph (I think). Steph does Collie parts.
diggerdave
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Jake, if you do need a new propshaft because the sliding joint is FUBARed there are a few on ebay at ok prices, but I would prefer to check it in person and make sure the double-carden joint at the transfer box end - which is non-replaceable - is smooth and flexible OR buy from a trusted source as StarCruiser says. If it is just that the rear UJ needs replacing and you've never done one before there are loads of guides all over the internet. One of the most comprehensive is Bob Murphy's on the 'other site'
I've not done a pinion seal before so I can't offer advice on that except to say that some of the leak-stop style stuff worked when I had a weep from there (although I doubt it would be much use for a gusher
)
Regarding your clunk/twang in the steering: You may be right about the anti-roll bar. If not, I suffered something similar (intermittent, starting on full right lock with the suspension stressed but becoming more frequent when the suspension wasn't under stress and with left lock).
I fixed it partially by tightening the steering rack tensioner and fully by replacing the steering rack bushes (a common requirement now these trucks are getting older). Some details here
I've not done a pinion seal before so I can't offer advice on that except to say that some of the leak-stop style stuff worked when I had a weep from there (although I doubt it would be much use for a gusher
)Regarding your clunk/twang in the steering: You may be right about the anti-roll bar. If not, I suffered something similar (intermittent, starting on full right lock with the suspension stressed but becoming more frequent when the suspension wasn't under stress and with left lock).
I fixed it partially by tightening the steering rack tensioner and fully by replacing the steering rack bushes (a common requirement now these trucks are getting older). Some details here
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I think you would have to search very hard indeed for a knackered shaft so buying used shouldn't be too daunting , but while its out i would change the UJ anyway .
Bob Murphy is holier than Jesus when it comes to repairs , save yourself lots of time and just cut through the old UJ and it will fall out with a toffee hammer tap (i wasted a good hour trying to do it the "proper way" and got nowhere) .
When you have a new universal joint in your hand the whole job will become as simple as a toddlers jigsaw . The only thing you need to know is once the prop is off , if you pick it up by one end , the shaft will slide out leaving you with two pieces and it will lose balance if it doesn't go back together the way it was , so mark both ends before you remove it so you can line it up again .
I would also , while it's off blast all the old grease out of the tube with a jet wash because the top end of the tube can fill with grease over the years which is a bad thing , though i imagine its uncommon as most have never been greased . A new slider grease nipple only costs a few pence , i think its metric 7mm spanner size ?
Unless it was really bad i think i would take a chance on the pinion leak sorting itself out once the prop is good , some fully synthetic diff oil might breather new life into the seal and if not as Dave said some transmission stop leak sorted a leak in my front diff .
Bob Murphy is holier than Jesus when it comes to repairs , save yourself lots of time and just cut through the old UJ and it will fall out with a toffee hammer tap (i wasted a good hour trying to do it the "proper way" and got nowhere) .
When you have a new universal joint in your hand the whole job will become as simple as a toddlers jigsaw . The only thing you need to know is once the prop is off , if you pick it up by one end , the shaft will slide out leaving you with two pieces and it will lose balance if it doesn't go back together the way it was , so mark both ends before you remove it so you can line it up again .
I would also , while it's off blast all the old grease out of the tube with a jet wash because the top end of the tube can fill with grease over the years which is a bad thing , though i imagine its uncommon as most have never been greased . A new slider grease nipple only costs a few pence , i think its metric 7mm spanner size ?
Unless it was really bad i think i would take a chance on the pinion leak sorting itself out once the prop is good , some fully synthetic diff oil might breather new life into the seal and if not as Dave said some transmission stop leak sorted a leak in my front diff .
Yup - should have bought a Landcruiser (80 series, that is). I'll get me coat...
Ha ha, you beat me to it Dave, buy a real land cruiser
...........
As for the moans and groans from the front, isn't that a symptom of a lower ball joint about to let go?
As Shayne says, take these jobs one at a time, some you'll be able to sort yourself if you have time, or you can get help if you have the money
As you've seen, there's plenty of willing advice flowing on here, you're never alone on this forum
Thanks gents
Awesome advice as always.
'Should have bought a landcruiser ' was a regular quip heard when I used to frequent LR forums!
P.s I'm not sure buying an 80 will help.. maybe a 100
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Yeah get an 80 then when something goes wrong , if you can afford it , and if you can find one , you can pay a proper old school mechanic to fix it . Finding used parts won't be a problem though because for every 80 still being driven there are at least 3 being broken for parts !
Shane - the lady doth protest too much...
I'm completely convinced there will be 70, 80 and 100+ series still running about when the 90s are in the dust. They were Yota's response to the Shogun and built smaller, light and to a budget.
But hey, whatever ;-)
I'm completely convinced there will be 70, 80 and 100+ series still running about when the 90s are in the dust. They were Yota's response to the Shogun and built smaller, light and to a budget.
But hey, whatever ;-)
Gav missin
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Not sure about the 100 s . Seen a lot of what you would think fairly young ones with some serious rust. Have to say I had a collie for a few months while I waited for my 80 to come up,and really liked it.
To be fair, I am taking the piss, to some extent at least.
Genuinely (and I'm waiting for the wrath of ..... ) not all Landcruisers are equal. To the same extent not all Landrovers are equal (so no one with half an ounce of sense compares a Freelander with a Defender, say).
I'm sure the Collies are good Yota trucks, and if you love em, more power too you. Me, I prefer the old school stuff - 70 and 80 series in Landcruisers, Defenders in Landrovers, etc, etc.... but that's me - my choice, my preference. ;-)
Genuinely (and I'm waiting for the wrath of ..... ) not all Landcruisers are equal. To the same extent not all Landrovers are equal (so no one with half an ounce of sense compares a Freelander with a Defender, say).
I'm sure the Collies are good Yota trucks, and if you love em, more power too you. Me, I prefer the old school stuff - 70 and 80 series in Landcruisers, Defenders in Landrovers, etc, etc.... but that's me - my choice, my preference. ;-)
