Intercooler install

[567simons]

Evening all, I'm installing a PDI front mount and would like to know which vacuum and boost hoses can safely be removed when the crossover pipe is taken out. Some pics from someone who's done it would be really useful!! Cheers

 

[Michael Montgomery]

Shouldn’t think that is an issues when I’ve done this before and put back accordingly again.

 

[Grimbo]

You will need to have a boost pipe connected..... you don't say if it's a 12v or 24 valve ... the 24v has the take off on the alloy housing just above the turbo that you will probably be removing... your new intercooler kit should have a suitable take off point on the piping or you will need to make one .

 

[567simons]

Thanks Grimbo it's a 24v

 

[Grimbo]

In that case all the EGR bits will go when you take the cross over pipe off ..... check the thread about EGR removal because it can put a light on in the dash... I think it's a separate ECU that could be taken off.... but you will still need the boost pipe to the boost compensator on the fuel injection pump .

 

[Iwan]

There's also a vac pipe that goes to the fuel pump below the boost compensator that when the egr is activated it adds a vacume to the lower side of the boost compensator... this really needs to be removed also as it works the opposite to what the engine needs.

It will make the 24v engine more responsive.

 

[chapel gate]

Where is this vac pipe of which you speak?

 

[Iwan]

I've taken a look over the pics on my laptop and can't find it, but will take a new pic tomorow.. Defintitely a vac pipe and not the opposite as it would smoke black if blowing air into that area of the top of the pump under the diaphragm.

 

[Iwan]

A bit of info of what I mentioned on the thread.

The pipe in question is at the end of the pencil with the injector return removed.. when I got the original truck with the 24v in it... I really didn't like the vac setup and as the 12v of mine doesn't have any of that, then why should they be there.? This pipe was connected to an ecu?powered solenoid open or closed.

This engine only runs with the boost pipe thats above the pencil.

So looking at a normal pump without an egr, this one has a rubber cap on it and is open to air which when the boost actuator is operating it allows air into the area below the boost actuator.

So I came to the conclusion that air needs to enter this area to allow circulation in and out of this lower area to stop it from creating a vacume below the boost pin/compensator/actuator and causing drag.

So I used a vent cap off one of the solenoid on the end of the original pipe to cap it off and breathe as the pump does on the middle pic.

 

[567simons]

Thanks all for your replies, I'll see what it's like if I remove that hose below the boost compensator. I've got the glow plug/engine light on since the cooler went in. On the plus side EGTs won't go above 450 pre turbo

 

[Grimbo]

The glow plug/engine light issue is what I alluded to in my first post .....
Someone on here has found the answer ...maybe just remove the ecu ?
Unless you plan on going to Polar regions it will be happy to start without using the grid heater that also is controlled by the EGR ECU I think..... as it will energise the heater for some time after the engine is running to help emissions....

 

[Grimbo]

Have you turned the fueling up post cooler fit ?
Have you noticed an improvement in power just by fitting the cooler ?

 

[chapel gate]

Thanks all for your replies, I'll see what it's like if I remove that hose below the boost compensator. I've got the glow plug/engine light on since the cooler went in. On the plus side EGTs won't go above 450 pre turbo

thats because you have removed the EGR connectors when you took off the cross over pipe. im sure its just a broken circuit that could be looped back in.

my light is on also.

that bulb wont last forever...

 

[Towpack]

All I'll add to what's been said is that you will loose some boost pressure through the intercooler so connect a boost pressure sensor hose on the engine side of it as close to the intake manifold as possible to get a more accurate boost reading. I removed all the EGR mechanical gubbins, valves and manifold etc but blanked off the vacuum actuator pipes and left the wiring connected which means no engine light. I have also kept the intake heater but have a manual overide switch fitted.

 

[567simons]

Iwan, did as you suggested. Difference is like night and day

 

[Iwan]

Nice one man! That pipe is so wrong!

 

[Firewout]

maybe just remove the ecu

The tacho won't work anymore when you just remove the ecu.
Ignore the +12V text. It's actually a sawtooth signal to the tachometer.

 

[Towpack]

A bit of info of what I mentioned on the thread.

View attachment 173667

The pipe in question is at the end of the pencil with the injector return removed.. when I got the original truck with the 24v in it... I really didn't like the vac setup and as the 12v of mine doesn't have any of that, then why should they be there.? This pipe was connected to an ecu?powered solenoid open or closed.

This engine only runs with the boost pipe thats above the pencil.

View attachment 173668

So looking at a normal pump without an egr, this one has a rubber cap on it and is open to air which when the boost actuator is operating it allows air into the area below the boost actuator.

So I came to the conclusion that air needs to enter this area to allow circulation in and out of this lower area to stop it from creating a vacume below the boost pin/compensator/actuator and causing drag.

View attachment 173669

So I used a vent cap off one of the solenoid on the end of the original pipe to cap it off and breathe as the pump does on the middle pic.

So, I thought I'd try this mod this morning on the way to ADSA and it absolutely killed the bottom end. Virtually no pull below 1500rpm especially in higher gears, the difference is unmistakable. Reconnected it for the return trip and the low end grunt returned so not really sure why given that it worked on other 24v cruisers. Is there some other mod to do in conjunction with the pipe removal?

 

[Iwan]

Interesting Towpack, I remember that when my 24v was in the original truck with all the supporting electrics it seemed pretty low on pull but as the brake lines were corroded I didn't take it too far. But when installed in the 12v body all of the egr etc kit had been removed.

I wonder if you block the pipe that you removed by fitting a bolt in it to give the usual resistance, would that make a difference to the supporting electronics and change of behavior?

 

[chapel gate]

if its a vacuum wouldnt it assist with fuel pin travel rather than hinder it?

i have searched high and low for that manual we mentioned ages ago. the one on the egr electrics and vacuum piping.
i cant find it anywhere..