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Jack/spare wheel winch handle.

Dave2000

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spain
Yesterday I picked up a puncture on the motorway, long story but the short version is the winch that lowers the spare had seized, (insert screaming icon here), a few months back I had tried to get a spare wheel winch but was unable, I took mine out and cleaned and oiled and put back, all working fine. Of course when needed NOW it refused to budge, I did hurl foul language (report is in my MUD thread) anyway, the main issue that the piece of tube with the squared end actually collapsed under my attempts to free the pulley, I now need to replace this POS. If the 80 has any weaknesses then this is one of them!

First thoughts are I need a replacement handle and the three segments that bolt together (someone pm me if you have a spare you want to flog) but, has anyone thought about fabricating a stronger handle and extension to replace the thin piece of tin in the tool bag?

Or perhaps thought about some kind of extension that allows the winch/hook attachment to be brought nearer to the hole in the back panel? If you have never used the wheel lowering device then think of a gynaecologist wallpapering his hallway through the letter box and you will know what I mean when I say I think this is a poxy idea of Mr 'T's.

Thoughts?

regards

Dave
 
When I first bought my truck I went round everything familiarising myself and thought that this area could be improved.

I thought to put a length of plastic waste pipe over the slotted jaw of the winch where the handle goes and somehow fix the other end by the slot in the rear. That way the handle would be guided into position.

IIRC it is possible to get the hook of the jack handle in the wrong place so it jams solid. Once it is in the winch it works a treat but of course when you're at the side of a busy motorway, it's not an easy task.

For the ultimate in gagetry, an old windscreen wiper motor could perhaps be fashioned with a part to mate with the winch for push button raising and lowering, though after years of salt it would probably be powder and seized solid when you wanted to use it.

I've seen the winches on eBay but haven't checked for handles. I guess, as always, Karl's your man.
 
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There is a one piece Mr T winding handle available,usually second hand nowadays.Obviously its the one I keep in the Cruiser I drive. That said when ever I have a Cruiser on the ramp I give the winding mechanism a good dose of chain lube ( and everything else which moves). In all the Cruisers I have had I've always made freeing the spare wheel mechanism a first priority. They can always be freed no matter the state even if you have to heat them up.
 
Mine was as grotty as you could imagine when I got the truck. First stop was to dismantle it and dose it with heavy grease. It always worked well after that.

I did make a point of not cranking it too tight, because I found it was prone to jamming. I used to keep it just tight enough to cause some depressions in the tyre, then stop.

Since going with bigger tyres, I've removed it all, but I want to keep the handles because I find the bottle-screw-jack handy and the handles are shared for the jack.

Agreed, it is a weak point on the old 80s.

I would have thought a local fabricator could make you a better version than the OEM bits.
 
I have to agree that accessing the underslung spare wheel on the 80 isn't the easiest of tasks when you're stranded roadside in the pi**ing rain, crawling round on hands and knees and groping around trying to unhook the wheel from the chain but I've never had an issue with the mechanism itself operating. As has been said, a good lubing now and again keeps the thing free. Whenever I'm under the back of the truck I always give it a squirt of something while I'm down there. Many vehicles with spares stored underneath carry them on a hinged rack affair which lowers at one end, easy to use on smaller wheels but probably not with the weight of the wheel/tyre combination of an 80. Shouldn't be difficult to fab up a one piece handle, it's only a length of steel rod with a hook on the end. You could possibly weld a nut, the same size as the wheel nuts, onto the winch drive and use an extended wheel brace/spider but would it be any easier to locate?
 
Take it off and leave it in a bucket of diesel for a week. Then fill it with grease. I bought a new one when I fitted my sub tank and had all the spare wheel parts blasted and plastic coated. I think you would soon make up a better bar dave, on the other hand a better bar isnt needed if the winch is working ok.
 
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Thanks for the replies thus far guys. I knew it was not the best system in the world, I tend to check these things once or twice a year and did think to myself when checking it earlier this year it was getting rusty and nasty. Karl did not have one at the time so I went for remove/strip/clean/grease/reassemble. It all worked fine but for some reason it decided to become stuck. The problem is exacerbated by the hook continually dropping out of the winch slot and getting jammed between the winch and the under body. As mentioned, my continual attempts to free the winch resulted in the handle/bar assembly falling apart. Having to lie under there to see the hook end locate in the slot in itself frustrating, I was unable to apply the force needed to release the winch from underneath, jumping out and having it fall out......repeat...go under repeat was pissing me off! I think a wide flexible tube run from the winch attachment to behind the hole in the body might be the way to go, at least you would not need to get under to align the hook each time it came out.

regards

Dave
 
They can be a pain. Ill have another look to see if I can dig one out as I'm doing some sorti g at the min.
 
Cheers mate, the winch I can suffer, just need to keep an eye in it and drown it with dubleudeeforty! If you can find one and the four piece handle you could drop them in the post to my mothers home in London, I am in the UK over the Xmas/New year period.

Many thanks

regards

Dave
 
I made a one piece one with a cranking handle on the end to get good leverage. I ditched the POS original a long time ago. And swapped the jack for a small hydraulic one.
 
I made a one piece one with a cranking handle on the end to get good leverage. I ditched the POS original a long time ago. And swapped the jack for a small hydraulic one.

Good idea Chris, with the handle, I like to hide and pack things away so would prefer a collapsible version. Re the jack, I did use the hydraulic version on my old Land Rover which was very good, the 'cradle' welded on top in particular, but one day I reached in and had a handful of oil.

The 80 OE version is pretty compact and will never leak so will stick with that, when off roading I used to take a spare hydraulic type but now take a couple 'high lifts' which can be used for many things.

regards

Dave
 
The jack I have isn't a trolley jack, it's just a straight telescopic one that fits in the OEM cradle

The long handle just slides in the top of the rear tool compartment inside the plastic panel
 
Trolley jack, now you have lost me Chris? :icon-biggrin:.

The handle tucking in there is good, the OE LR jack is a straight up type and would work great with the 80, I just did not like the leaks.

I am sure there is someone out there that could fabricate an adaptor, perhaps a tube guiding the handle to the winch?

priced sensibly I am sure it would sell well.

regards

Dave
 
i dropped the spare wheel a couple of days ago to do some wiring on the rear cross member. i left the first section in the winch so i wouldnt have to guide it in again. so, why not just leave the first section in? cut the end shorter so it just sits behind the aluminium tread plate,and grind the hex shape on again. or weld a 1/2 inch drive socket on there if you want to use a bar and knuckle bar etc. put a piece of fuel hose over the first section where it meets the guide to stop rattles and paint damage. then attach the hook shaped end in the winch housing by welding it maybe? i didnt study it for too long as my mind was else where..
 
What a great idea. Leaving part of the handle permanently attached. Never thought of that! I'll give it a go. Thanks
 
There maybe two downsides to this.
1, if you live in a country that uses salt on the roads in winter then the bit you leave attached could rust to such an extent that it becomes worse than useless, both being too weak to operate the mech and preventing other attempts from operating it.
2, you need that bit to operate the jack so would need an extra bit to do that.
 
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I cant see the first point being a problem, the first section is solid bar, but yes provision would have to be made to use the jack. If i was going to do it i would buy a second hand first section, or see if i had an old 1/2 " drive bar etc in the shed, cut to length and see if that works.
 
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