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Latest 80 with slight engine noise
- Thread starter karl webster
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It's an auto Glen.
I have been thinking similar though that the noise could be box/flywheel or something with the noise being transferred. I'm still leaning towards the engine itself though.
I've got a faint tippy-tap too, on the 1HZ.
Thought it needed a tappet adjustment and the service had a go at it and changed one of the shims. They weren't happy about doing it because they thought the old shim was more in tolerance. They asked me to report any change in the running of the engine.
The noise went away, but there was a marked decrease in power. When I told them that, the whisked it straight back in the shop and put the old shim back.
Tippy-tap came back, and so did the original power.
I'm ignoring it now, does no harm. At least I think I know what it is now, and that it's harmless.
Thought it needed a tappet adjustment and the service had a go at it and changed one of the shims. They weren't happy about doing it because they thought the old shim was more in tolerance. They asked me to report any change in the running of the engine.
The noise went away, but there was a marked decrease in power. When I told them that, the whisked it straight back in the shop and put the old shim back.
Tippy-tap came back, and so did the original power.
I'm ignoring it now, does no harm. At least I think I know what it is now, and that it's harmless.
Towpack
Well-Known Member
That's an interesting thought SC and one I've also considered even though there is no OP problem. Given that the valve and spring are cheap and easy to replace I might just check/change them.
I'm no expert, and haven't heard the sound of course, but from what I recall it was oil viscosity related. Could be any number of inconsequential things but I seem to recall it going away with the 10W40 oil.
Yes i always maintained the tap/tick was oil related, if i used 15/40 i got it, 10/40 gone !
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I'm using 10W40 oil BTW...
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If it's oil viscosity related it will be piston slap.
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For anyone that's interested.
The sump was taken off to inspect the bebs. Num 3 had picked up. These were acls that had done 30-40k.
The damage to the bearing was minimal and couldn't have been making the noise.
Next was to have a look at the timing gears. We had a washer with a chunk out of it and a load of bits in the sump. A new washer was fitted along with new bebs and beb bolts. Still had the same noise when she was fired up.
Long story short. Second hand set of timing gears in it and she's up and running again. I guess a small bit of metal bent one of the cogs in the timing gear set up causing the tapping noise.
Nice getting to the bottom of something.
The sump was taken off to inspect the bebs. Num 3 had picked up. These were acls that had done 30-40k.
The damage to the bearing was minimal and couldn't have been making the noise.
Next was to have a look at the timing gears. We had a washer with a chunk out of it and a load of bits in the sump. A new washer was fitted along with new bebs and beb bolts. Still had the same noise when she was fired up.
Long story short. Second hand set of timing gears in it and she's up and running again. I guess a small bit of metal bent one of the cogs in the timing gear set up causing the tapping noise.
Nice getting to the bottom of something.
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Good feeling mate
You did well with your noise. I thought you had lost the plot and were hearing things lol.
You did well with your noise. I thought you had lost the plot and were hearing things lol.
Nice one Karl. Lots of time and effort spent there by the sound of it.
Pretty sure I've narrowed my vibration down to (an) injection delivery valve(s). The FSM says the pump is unlikely to give trouble but that any trouble is likely to be injectors first and if they don't cure it, pump delivery valves.
My theory, FWIW, is that a delivery valve is letting by, thereby allowing the column of diesel in the delivery pipe to relax back, taking up some of the next injection to repressurise, and therefore delivering fuel either less, later or both.
Just got to prove it now. That means removing the pump for test. Then £600 or so in delivery valves and fitting.
Pretty sure I've narrowed my vibration down to (an) injection delivery valve(s). The FSM says the pump is unlikely to give trouble but that any trouble is likely to be injectors first and if they don't cure it, pump delivery valves.
My theory, FWIW, is that a delivery valve is letting by, thereby allowing the column of diesel in the delivery pipe to relax back, taking up some of the next injection to repressurise, and therefore delivering fuel either less, later or both.
Just got to prove it now. That means removing the pump for test. Then £600 or so in delivery valves and fitting.
Last edited:
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Hmm interesting Rich.
I was talking to bill westey the other day. Msteese he is on here. It may be worth you having a chat with him. He's been having similar issues as you have. Think he would be interested if you get to the bottom of it.
I was talking to bill westey the other day. Msteese he is on here. It may be worth you having a chat with him. He's been having similar issues as you have. Think he would be interested if you get to the bottom of it.
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Read the rest of my post dave !
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I hate getting to the bottom of my pint...
There are some bottoms that would be an exception... 
Great that this got sorted Karl!
Great that this got sorted Karl!
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The comments about 10w40 vs 15w40 have caught my interest.........
A legacy from previous employment of getting 15w/40 for free (at 250ltrs per time
) meant I always put 15w40 in. I have 10ltrs left (so one oil change) before I need to buy some in years 
My question is with the 10w or 15w making a noticeable difference - I thought the first part of the grading was at cold start - as soon as the oils get up to temperature then they will perform as the same (the -40 part).
I appreciate that 10w is more fluid at cold temps than 15w and would initially be quieter but at temperature surely they are the same?
A legacy from previous employment of getting 15w/40 for free (at 250ltrs per time
) meant I always put 15w40 in. I have 10ltrs left (so one oil change) before I need to buy some in years My question is with the 10w or 15w making a noticeable difference - I thought the first part of the grading was at cold start - as soon as the oils get up to temperature then they will perform as the same (the -40 part).
I appreciate that 10w is more fluid at cold temps than 15w and would initially be quieter but at temperature surely they are the same?
The comments about 10w40 vs 15w40 have caught my interest.........
A legacy from previous employment of getting 15w/40 for free (at 250ltrs per time
My question is with the 10w or 15w making a noticeable difference - I thought the first part of the grading was at cold start - as soon as the oils get up to temperature then they will perform as the same (the -40 part).
I appreciate that 10w is more fluid at cold temps than 15w and would initially be quieter but at temperature surely they are the same?
I have to agree with you on this, at normal running temp. The idea of the lower viscosity at lower temps is just to reduce oil starvation at the extremes on start up at cold IMO.
Cams suffer because spray-bars drain out overnight and on a cold morning, the cam would run relatively dry prior to the oil getting through.
