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LJ70 Build Thread!

A standard KZJ70 was tested at 99mph. I reached a speedo indicated 109 mph, which, adjusted for speedo error would tend to agree with this. This equals 4,000 rpm. This was on road tyres.

The tyres Ben has fitted will probably begin to throw tread at much more than 85mph.

Roger
 
As a comparison at 3000RPM my KZJ70 will be doing about 80mph, thats with similar setup to ben (2" lift and 33" tyres) so the different diff ratios only give an extra 10mph. Id did see a higher 5th gear for sale somewhere think it was for the R151 box, is that the right box?
 
the temp gauge works fine and normally sits at half way all the time once warm, but i noticed a few times when off road going up steep hills that it got to about 3/4 up the gauge. :thumbdown:

put the heater on full and with in 5 mins the temp had come down to halfway again! 8-)

so 37" tyres seem like the way forward then! :twisted:

the speed i recorded was all done with a satnav and not using the standard speedo as obviously that will be out after fitting 35" tyres. :think:

might get the suspension changed when i get it to OZ, thinking of fitting dobinsons next time.

the truck puts a huge smile on my face every time i drive it, but just driven it 12 miles back from the pub and it doesnt feel to safe being driven fast on the roads. :roll:

thinking of changing the suspension and changing all the bushes for poly bushes. oh and fitting castor correction bushes, im sure that would make it handle a lot better! :)

i also want one of these:-

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Return-Centr ... 2189wt_982

had a few problems with my truck today. :thumbdown:

for the first time this year ive been caught out running on veg oil.

ive been running 70% veg to 30% diesel, with a tiny splash of petrol.
i thought the petrol would have been enough to stop the veg from waxing up, but the -5 conditions must have effected it a lot.

ended up having to stick £20 of diesel in the tank to dilute the veg oil down a bit so i could drive home from work. :oops:

im looking forward to being able to run on 100% veg oil all year around in OZ! 8-)
 
ModelMakerMan said:
As a comparison at 3000RPM my KZJ70 will be doing about 80mph, thats with similar setup to ben (2" lift and 33" tyres) so the different diff ratios only give an extra 10mph. Id did see a higher 5th gear for sale somewhere think it was for the R151 box, is that the right box?

The R151 is the box fitted to the KZJ70.

Roger
 
had a few deliveries waiting for me when i got back from site today...
I had a tube just like that yesterday with my cross struts in for underneath :thumbup:
 
Be careful with the temp gauge. In most cases where the engine gets hot it wont show, so if it is actually moving then the engine must have been very very hot.

Putting on 37" may be the way forward for a little bit more top end, but remember this will also put more strain on the engine. I would recommend fitting a external temperature sensor so you could monitor your engine...
 
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why not change the diff ratio's?, the 2.4 70 has 4.88's where as the 3.0 has 4.56's, may help with motorway journeys
 
ModelMakerMan said:

Sounds so good doesn't it but, being the cynic I am, when a manufacturer displays there wares in such a fashion, and can't be bothered to get the spelling right, then I get a nervous twitch.

I fitted 33" dia tyres and I now have a 4 speed box plus overdrive.

A higher geared 5th. You don't need it. It will make the jump from 4th to 5th to big.

And what's an armoured Landcruiser?

Roger
 
got home tonight and got the truck as high as i could on axle stands, and then drained the gearbox and transferbox oil.

transfer box oil didnt look too bad, but the gearbox oil looked quite muddy still. :thumbdown:

not as muddy as last time, but still quite bad. maybe it will take a few changes to get all the mud out. :think:

really not looking forward to taking the gearbox out tomorrow in the -degree temperatures, lying on my back on a gravel drive! :thumbdown:

oh and the weather forecast said the Midlands will be getting 4" of snow tomorrow! did i mention that i despise winter in this country? :(

Beau said:
Be careful with the temp gauge. In most cases where the engine gets hot it wont show, so if it is actually moving then the engine must have been very very hot.

Putting on 37" may be the way forward for a little bit more top end, but remember this will also put more strain on the engine. I would recommend fitting a external temperature sensor so you could monitor your engine...

thanks, i have been meaning to fit a temp gauge for a while, but couldnt decide on which one to get. i would like a madman one but there not cheap. :think:

hairyguy4 said:
why not change the diff ratio's?, the 2.4 70 has 4.88's where as the 3.0 has 4.56's, may help with motorway journeys

it is an option but im not sure how easy it would be to get a KZJ70 ring and pinion. :think:
 
ben said:
thanks, i have been meaning to fit a temp gauge for a while, but couldnt decide on which one to get. i would like a madman one but there not cheap. :think:


I've been wanting a madman guage or similar for a while but just can't justify the price. Jon's Arduino device would also be spot on but is beyond me to build etc. Although only a temp guage and alarm, these are the best I've seen for the money and I am going to order one
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0815948233
 
thanks for the link Lorin! :thumbup:

that does look good, especially the price! im going to order one later! :clap:
 
those look like a simple solution :thumbup: the Arduino version would have been easy for you to do Lorin, I was offering to build them if you supplied the bits ;) ODBII version next :)
 
Those look like simple industrial electronics measurment systems. There must loads of different types of them around. Good find though, especially a 12v version
 
so ive taken a day off work today so i can get the gearbox removed.

8am i made a start. first thing i noticed was the bucket that contained 5-6litres of dirty gb oil last night was now empty. so im guessing the bucket must have had a small split in it! my dad really isnt going to be impressed if/when he finds out! :thumbdown:

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first job was to remove the gear stick surround and gaiters.

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decided to remove the surround because ive never had it off before and thought it might give me a bit more light underneath.

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removed the exhaust down pipe next.

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this is an example of why i dont trust garages to do any work on my truck. over £500 for a stainless exhaust system and theyve used the old flange and bodged a load of silicon around it where it mounts to the turbo! :roll:

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im yet to find anywhere i trust to do work on my truck as i always seem to get f*****D over! :angry-banghead:

next i unbolted the rear prop.

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followed by the clutch slave cylinder and starter motor.

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removed all the bell housing bolts.

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2 vacuum hoses to disconnect.

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removed the 4 bolts that go through the cross member into the gb mounts.

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jacked the gb up slightly to take the weight off the cross member.

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and unbolted the cross member.

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pulled the rubber boot up on the gear stick.

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and removed the stick.

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unbolted the front prop.

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found a ratchet strap.

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and used it to hold the gb up while i repositioned the jack and board it was sitting on.

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jack in position.

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while pushing the trolley jack towards the back of the truck with my knee, i was able to use my hands to push the bell housing from the engine.

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once it was clear of the clutch and fly wheel i lowered it down.

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eased it off the jack.

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and dragged it out.

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set it up on some crates.

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re-fitted the gear stick and used some duck tape to make sure it was water tight. the rubber gaiter doesnt look to great and im wondering if this might have been where the muddy water got in the box.

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taped any other bits i didnt want getting wet off.

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used some engine de-greaser and a scrubbing brush and pressure washer to get the box as clean as possible.

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sat it on an angle and drained the last trace of oil out.

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so that was the box out! :dance:

2 hours and 45mins, getting soaking wet and covered in mud and oil, lying on my back in the snow and rain, on my own! really wasnt much fun, but at least its out. :thumbdown:

im hoping it will go back in without any problems. :pray:

rear recovery point.

P2100043.jpg


when i got ridiculously stuck at buildwas and was recovered using 2 12,000lb winches and snatch blocks, the standard toyota recovery point never showed any signs of damage, unlike the rear cross member that ended up being shaped like a banana!

viewtopic.php?f=38&t=11533&hilit=buildwas

new one bolted on.

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started measuring up for the bearings for the drawer system next.

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im away on a camping and laning trip next weekend so i really want the drawers finished for the trip. :thumbup:
 
Ben
why are you removing the gearbox?
Read prev posts but missed why you are actually removing it
 
keep up Andy! :lol:

because when i went to Rogers a few months ago so he could help me try to get the X-ENG handbrake working, we discovered that the output flange on the back of the transfer case, where the prop bolts onto has got a lot of play in it.

went into my local main stealer and they quoted me over £300 for the 2 bearings and shims which i need. fast forward a few months and Ian started selling parts again! :dance:

so after a few pm's, and a week or so later i had the new bearings, gaskets, seals and shims ready to fit into my gb.

i then got in touch with Roger who kindly said hed help me strip the box down and fit the new parts, as ive never stripped a gb before and wouldnt be confident doing it on my own.

so the plan is:-

Friday- day off work so i can remove the gb.

Saturday- drive down to Rogers house in Worcestershire, in the vectra i will borrow off my mum. strip and re-build the gb.

Sunday- providing we havnt found any nasties in the gb, that we dont have parts for, and it all went back together ok i will re-fit the gb ready for work on monday morning. :pray:

not having any luck finding suitable bearings online, for the drawer system, so might nip out and try and get some locally. :thumbup:
 
Sounds like a well oiled plan to me Ben, fingers crossed for you m8 :)

Gone are the days that I could commit so much time to the truck myself :| Well, for a couple of years at-least, children eh :roll: :D ;)
 
Plenty of online places you can get bearings ben... but to be honest, for what we actually need, I ended up popping down the local skate board shop! ... £1.50 each. I expect they won't last forever but... £1.50 each! :thumbup:

The skate ones are all a standard size for skateboards, skates, bikes etc (22mm with 8mm hole). and they're sealed too. Can pay more for tougher skate ones or even more for bigger industrial ones... but I'm going with normal skate ones. If they fail after a while..... £1.50 each.

I'm sure there are industrial special jobbies that will take anything... but skate board ones are made to go really fast with big kids jumping all over them... so I'm sure they can handle a drawer?
 
sae70 said:
Sounds like a well oiled plan to me Ben, fingers crossed for you m8 :)

Gone are the days that I could commit so much time to the truck myself :| Well, for a couple of years at-least, children eh :roll: :D ;)

thanks Steven. :thumbup:

im :pray: everything else will be ok inside the gb.

i wish i could commit more time to working on my truck, then i might actually get it finished! but work and sleep keep getting in the way. maybe another 50 pages and it might be some where near. :lol:

Sam said:
Plenty of online places you can get bearings ben... but to be honest, for what we actually need, I ended up popping down the local skate board shop! ... £1.50 each. I expect they won't last forever but... £1.50 each! :thumbup:

The skate ones are all a standard size for skateboards, skates, bikes etc (22mm with 8mm hole). and they're sealed too. Can pay more for tougher skate ones or even more for bigger industrial ones... but I'm going with normal skate ones. If they fail after a while..... £1.50 each.

I'm sure there are industrial special jobbies that will take anything... but skate board ones are made to go really fast with big kids jumping all over them... so I'm sure they can handle a drawer?

thanks Sam. :thumbup:

i called in at a local bearing place this afternoon, but they wanted over £2 per bearing. £70+ on bearings was more than i was willing to pay. :thumbdown:

your skateboard bearings sound like a good idea. :clap:

looking at the bearings in the ironman video on youtube, they dont look very big at all.

i measured up what size bearings i ideally wanted, this was to suite the alloy box section and the cable tray. i came up with 38mm overall size with an 8mm centre hole. width anything from 8mm-15mm.

im now thinking of buying whatever bearings i can find at the right price.

i will then have all the bottom bearings mounted through the existing holes in the cable tray, and i will drill new top holes to suite the bearings i get. :think:

my mate swung by and helped me lift the gb into the boot of the vectra. its now a low rider!

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did a bit more on the drawer system this afternoon, after getting back from my failed bearing shopping trip!

started drilling and bolting the smaller drawer together.

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had to cut the end piece, so out with the circ saw again.

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little drawer almost done.

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need to change all the bolts that connect the 2 sections of cable tray together for smaller ones, and make sure there all thread locked upon reassembly. cut the alloy runners to length.
bolt the bearings in place and then bolt the alloy runners to the drawer boxes. then cut the fronts so that they cover the runners, and so that the smaller drawer will open with the bigger rear door shut. then bolt some of the 75mm tray to the sides of the bigger tray where its bending slightly at the front. then bolt the whole lot in place, and then fix a top on, with hinged lift up sides to access the area over the wheel arches. :thumbup:
 
YYY
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