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LJ70 Build Thread!

I'm certain an electric motor won't work, not sure if a welder may be different.

What I meant in my Noddy way was if a single phase motor was wired to one of the phases on a 3 phase supply, then it would work (would it not?). The 4 pin plug would just be for the sake of continuity of plugs/sockets only.

I'm assuming that the welder is actually single-phase, meaning I see your point that no 3 phase equipment will work on a single phase supply, full-stop. (period as the Americans would say...)
 
I'm assuming that the welder is actually single-phase, meaning I see your point that no 3 phase equipment will work on a single phase supply, full-stop. (period as the Americans would say...)
The welder must be 3 phase why would it have a 3 phase plug fitted otherwise? unless of course it's only there to plug in at Bens workplace, in which case Ben didn't need to make an adapter he could just replace the 3 phase plug unless it would still be used at work. I'd like to know how Ben wired it to a three pin plug. You are right about the motor it would work tapped off one phase.
 
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The welder is a very advanced piece of machinery that will run on any voltage!

Right from 110v in the USA to 500+ in Russia! :icon-cool:

Which was one of the major selling points as it means I can use it at work on 3 phase 415v and use all 200 amps of power!

Or I can bring it home and plug it in to single phase 240v and get maybe 120amps out of it.

I've only had it up to about 110amps so far and it worked great and the plug didnt get hot etc. :dance:

Its difficult to wire a 240v plug straight to the end as the cable is far too thick, so having a 3 phase plug then an adapter to bring it down to 240v single phase works well. :icon-smile:

More info here:

https://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/spec_sheets/AD4-8.pdf


Nice set up Ben, I like key-hole chain restraint and the locator/restraint at the base of the bottle and I'm surprised to see BOC, thought Australia would have had its own "AOC" or something:lol: :thumbup:

And, as well as a chair, I think you should have installed a bed so you can practice welding in your sleep :lol:

Thanks. :icon-smile:

BOC used to be called CIG (Commonwealth Industrial Gas) ASFAIK. :icon-ugeek:
 
The welder is a very advanced piece of machinery that will run on any voltage!

Right from 110v in the USA to 500+ in Russia! :icon-cool:

Which was one of the major selling points as it means I can use it at work on 3 phase 415v and use all 200 amps of power!

Or I can bring it home and plug it in to single phase 240v and get maybe 120amps out of it.

I've only had it up to about 110amps so far and it worked great and the plug didnt get hot etc. :dance:

Its difficult to wire a 240v plug straight to the end as the cable is far too thick, so having a 3 phase plug then an adapter to bring it down to 240v single phase works well. :icon-smile:

That sounds a great bit of kit, I had no idea something like that could be used on different phases. :icon-cool:
 
I started a big job on a customers Suzuki this week.

The car.

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I've got to do an engine conversion to replace the tiny 1 litre with a slightly bigger 1.3. The first job was to fit a bonnet from a 1.3 which has a bulge to allow for the higher engine.

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I pulled the old engine and gearbox out.

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With that done I got it on the hoist for a full front end rebuild of the axle, with all new bearings and seals.

While on the hoist I've got to change all the suspension and remove and clean the fuel tank out.

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On Friday I finally got a day to work on the Jimny project.

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First job was to alter the A frame on the rear suspension setup.

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Removed the A frame.

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Pressed the bushes out.

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I could then put it on the Brobo saw to cut mounts off.

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22.5 degree cut in order to turn the mount 45 degrees.

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I could then turn the ends around.

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To ensure a really strong weld I ground the ends of the tube to ensure I would get full root penetration.

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Got my TIG setup.

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Welded it in 2 passes, a root pass first.

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Followed by a capping run.

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Got some new bushes.

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Cut the old mounts off the chassis.

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Bolted the A frame in position.

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I cut some 6mm thick steel.

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Clamped the 6mm flat together and stack drilled it on the pillar drill.

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Welded a piece of flat on the end of each piece of angle.

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I bolted the other pieces of flat in position using the old bushes and welded the flat to the angle.

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Bushes removed and ready to be welded to the chassis.

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I could then test the articulation.

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There isnt any weight above the rear springs so I think thats why their not compressing. With the cage, fuel tank, batteries, winch, seats etc. it should work better, if not we can source some softer springs.

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The next major job is the roll cage but in order to design it I need to know the position and height of the drivers seat and steering wheel.

I fitted the steering column, steering wheel and dash board loosely in position.

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I cut and welded some angle together.

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Tacked them to the chassis.

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And bolted the dash in position.

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I could then work out the height of the seat.

Clamped a small pallet to the chassis.

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That raised the seat up high enough.

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And thats as far as I got.

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I've started designing the cage and I want it be the exact shape and size of a Jimny body. So the front hoop will follow the angles and rake of the windscreen. :icon-biggrin:

And finally LJ............

The replacement instrument cluster I fitted and tried to connect, fried the oil pressure sender gauge on my engine as the instrument cluster was from a 24volt car and not 12v. Or atleast thats what the auto electrician thinks.

Removed the old one.

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Ordered a new one.

I'm not convinced its exactly the right one, but I'm fairly certain it will work.

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I've not been happy with how high LJ is for a while now, its sitting far too high which compromises the handling and means I run the risk of getting stopped by the police.

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I've used springs which are readily available here (79 series fronts) but they are too high.

If I owned an 80 it would be easy with loads of companies making suspension, but LJ being a reasonably rare model and with 70's with this suspension setup only being sold for about 5 years and never in Australia, options are limited!

A few companies make springs and shocks for earlier LJ70's which have a different suspension setup but AFAIK only one Australian company make suspension for the later square headlight models like LJ.

Dobinsons!

http://www.dobinsonsprings.com/4x4-vehicles/toyota/landcruiser/70-series/bundera/toy-65-a/

My boss spoke to Mr Dobinson himself and got me a great one off price! :dance:

So hes ordered me the +60mm lift kit.

Hoping to get it all fitted before my Easter High Country trip. :icon-biggrin:
 

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Dobinson and King Springs are both pretty good; I've got a mate who does performance suspension for (old) Volvo's and King Springs do a custom spring rate for him, which is different to their normal lowering springs.
 
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Hi Ben can't wait to see the jimmy in action! Looks like a good price of kit!!
 
Also got my 1kzt engine in this weekend all runs fine just getting a new hydrolics hose made up for powersteering on Monday plus having my 2.4 rad reworked to fit the kzt engine so should get that back on Tuesday.
Did u use the 4runner slave cylinder? Or 2.4?
Also having problems with oil pressure switch too which on did u buy to do the job? I can't wait to drive it now will be working on it on nights after work to get it done this weekend! :icon-biggrin::icon-biggrin::icon-biggrin::icon-biggrin:
 
Thanks Craig. :thumbup:

Awesome news on the 1KZ-T, just had a look at you're build thread. :clap:

You in love with the new found power and torque? :icon-twisted:

I'm pretty sure I used the 4-runner one. It mounts to the bell housing doesnt it?

If it does then I will have used the 4-runner one. :think:

Regarding the oil pressure I've had a few issues trying to get mine setup and working properly, a lot of this was down to me connecting it up wrong in the first place and frying the control box which is mounted above the glove box under the dash. It also melted my gauge slightly. Then I fitted a new set of clocks I got from Karl, but as they were out of an import 24volt 70 they fried my oil pressure sender gauge. :oops: :doh:

But after some more work by the auto electrician at work and the purchase of some replacement parts I think I should have it working this week. :pray:

I will make a note of what coloured wires go where and get some pics and that might help you get yours connected properly. :thumbup:
 
Thankyou Ben

yeah if you could that would be great as don't like the idea of not being able to see the gauge moving lol like looking at temp and oil gauges always
many thanks
 
Use the oil pressure sender from the 2.4 engine as this matches your gauge. Threads are the same .
difference between the 3.0 sender is that the sender also has a warning light, the 2.4 is only used to indicate the pressure.
 
Ok then that's handy to no thanks Garry

maybe a dumb question but how far do I do it up all the way or half way?? Cheers
 
The thread on the sender unit is tapered . Therefore apply a small amount of PTFE tape and tighten until half to three quarters of the way into block. Don't over tighten or you could strip the threads.
 
I got to do some work on the project this week, but just for one day.

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The first job was to work out where the front hoop of the cage would be.

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The old body mounts needed removing.

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I decided to trim the back off the Jimny dash board in order to mount it closer to the engine rather than wasting space now the buggy wont have a heater matrix and ducting.

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I could then work out exactly where the front hoop would sit.

I want the cage to bolt on and off so we can get it powdercoated.

12mm plates drilled and taped to weld to the chassis and 6mm plates to bolt to the 12mm plates.

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12mm.

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All the plates bolted to the 12mm ones ready to be welded to the chassis.

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I tack welded 2 of them on to the front of the chassis.

I could now work out the first hoop.

Marked it out on the floor with chalk.

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Bent some tube.

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The next bends proved to be a bit tricky as I was trying to bend the tube on a bend.

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This meant as I started bending the tube it was trying to rotate the tube towards the other bend.

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I did get it eventually though after ratchet strapping the tube to the pallet racking to stop it rotating as I did the second bend.

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More bending.

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I had to cut the ends off the hoop so I could bend it more.

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Tacked in position.

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Another little project I've been working on is another wire rack.

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Unfortunately welding the diagonal pieces on the front was enough to twist the whole thing out of square and make it so that the upright section was leaning over forwards. :doh:

However I remembered something I learnt at TAFE about metal distortion.

That if a piece of metal bends after welding, heating the other side of that piece of metal with a torch will pull it back the other way as it cools down.

Worked a bloody treat! :dance:

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I picked up some heavy duty castors.

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And drilled some 6mm plates for them to bolt to which will be welded to the bottom of the rack.

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I cut a load of pieces of 30mm angle.

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And started welding them to some 50mm flat.

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Thats as far as I got on that project as I dropped everything to work on the other project. (I've just updated that thread :icon-wink:)

http://www.landcruiserclub.net/foru...ness-World-Record-Attempt?p=422426#post422426

And finally a little project I've been working on regarding tool storage!

The spanner set my tool box came with isnt bad.

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But it hasnt got some of the bigger sizes above 19mm and often its useful to have 2 spanners the same size when undoing/doing up certain bolts rather than using a socket and spanner.

So I thought it would be nice to have one of my other spanner sets in one of the other drawers. Only issue was that the box they were in wouldn't fit in the drawer.

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My plan was to use some hardwood to help store them like one of my work mates has done with his spanners.

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Brought one of the drawers home.

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Got some 1mm thick alluminium that fitted snugly in the drawer.

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A bit of trial fitting and measuring up first.

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Then I could cut some Tasmanian oak into 20mm wide strips.

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Cut to length and the correct angle.

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Used my little chop saw to cut some notches.

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Screwed through the alluminium into the oak to hold the wood in position.

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I cocked up slightly by fitting the angled piece of oak too far over for one of the spanners to fit in properly. :doh:

Moving it over, left a couple of holes but oh well.

Moved over and screwed in position with the blue film removed.

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I will probably use the left over space to store my double ended ring spanners and I might buy some stubby spanners and flexy headed ratchet spanners too. :icon-smile:

I'm still waiting on the delivery of my new Dobinsons suspension and I'm hoping I will have it Monday/Tuesday.

I'm really hoping I can get it all fitted before next weekends 3 day High Country 4wd trip. :icon-biggrin:
 
Blimey that's organised having drawers labelled! Can't beat having everything laid out neatly, I even have all my screw drivers with the snap on label facing upwards lol, quite ocd about it tbh.
 
Thanks guys. :thumbup:

Blimey that's organised having drawers labelled! Can't beat having everything laid out neatly, I even have all my screw drivers with the snap on label facing upwards lol, quite ocd about it tbh.

Yeah definitely makes putting your hand on the right tool quick and easy!

You can also see almost instantly if a tool is missing when it comes time to pack up. :icon-ugeek:

I think you're on your own though with having to have the labels all facing up! :icon-rolleyes: :lol:
 
Thanks guys. :thumbup:



Yeah definitely makes putting your hand on the right tool quick and easy!

You can also see almost instantly if a tool is missing when it comes time to pack up. :icon-ugeek:

I think you're on your own though with having to have the labels all facing up! :icon-rolleyes: :lol:

Keeps it neat and tidy, usually an indication someone been in my tool box as never put back right! Usually a bloody salesman if feeling brave.
 
Hey Ben is there any reason my truck should feel like it's holding back atal? Have I missed a piece of wiring or anything?? Thanks
 
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