Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them

MOT failure

OK to put this to bed.

The workshop manual for the 80 states:

'When performing low-speed type brake tester measurements,
observe the following instructions.
(1) Put the center differential in FREE position.
• Shift the transfer select lever to H position.
• Turn the center differential lock switch to OFF and
check that the center differential lock indicator light
goes off.
(2) Shift the transmission shift lever to N range.
(3) Idle the engine, operate the brake booster and perform
the test.'

There is also a graphic showing the front wheels rotating whilst the rear are stationary.

regards

Dave
 
Last edited:
Can't say fairer than that Dave. I'll tell them next time and hope all is well!!
 
Can't say fairer than that Dave. I'll tell them next time and hope all is well!!

Funny when something like this bugs you, NOW I can go to bed, it has gone eleven and God knows I REALLY need my beauty sleep, night mate.

regards

Dave
 
I know what you mean Dave. I had always had a bit of trouble with it being a no go on the roller testers but never argued the toss.

Sleep tight…[emoji6]
 
First you need to get your head around the fact that your car is only 4WD not 'permanent 4wd',
I hope that helps?

regards

Dave

Cheers Dave for the 101 4wd explanation. Helped clear up some confusion. Being an early 80 I've no VC and by permanent I was meaning full time as opposed to selectable part time set up I had in an old Patrol.

Could be wrong but pretty sure the old owners manual describes never have the car towed with the front wheels off the ground while rears on the road. Probably mistaken. Too many Guinness, memory not what it used to be and you are right, this thread could go on forever...

Anyhow, I'll certainly be showing the next years tester your FSM instructions.

Thanks again.
Dave.
 
Last edited:
My viscous coupling must work then as the rev it up considerably and it suddenly flies forward off the rollers. I've had the same tester for 17 owning the 80.

Why can't anyone do their even basic jobs properly? ANSWER they did not go to my school when you were caned for dropping a pencil?
 
Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them
My viscous coupling must work then as the rev it up considerably and it suddenly flies forward off the rollers. I've had the same tester for 17 owning the 80.

Why can't anyone do their even basic jobs properly? ANSWER they did not go to my school when you were caned for dropping a pencil?

I think that is just the 'dismount' process off the rollers Frank, as they have to overcome the rotation to get traction. Happens with Lynn's front wheel drive car when they do the front wheels.
 
Yes could be resistance of the rollers not involving the centre did and VC although the rollers do seem to sped up a lot.
 
It may be that they just try to overrun the rollers whereas my testers run the rollers and drive out of them against the motors. Lord knows what it does to the local power factor but let's not go there here eh. [emoji6]
 
Referring to my MUD thread I recall when the gear and transfer boxes were fitted. During the house move and the car being off the road working between three garages blah blah, I had lost the new nuts and bolts for the front propshaft so decided to get the car off the ramp anyway and sort it later. I selected reverse and started to back off the ramp, no problem out of the garage into the road, put it in first to pull away and loads of revs and the car crept forward, immediate thought clutch fault, it was exactly the same feeling. Then I remembered no front prop, as I have the centre diff lock button I simply pressed that and locked the differential, drove the car as if both shafts were there.

The centre switch (from the early 80's) is a great 'get you home' mod if you break a diff/drive shaft/CV/prop and so on, you simply drive home as if it was a typical rear or front wheel drive car. Another thought, as I decided to do a bit of running around in the 80 I left the diff lock on and used it for a couple of days. Pootling around town the car felt the same as it was prior to the transfer box failure but, I had cause to use the coastal road for a few miles and found that being on a road that I have driven on for over ten years the car was running wide as I pushed it through the quite open bends, then it dawned on me, the car was under steering because there is no 4wd! I eventually got the front propshaft on and drove the same road again, the car had returned to be as sure footed as it has always been.

regards

Dave
 
Could be wrong but pretty sure the old owners manual describes never have the car towed with the front wheels off the ground while rears on the road. Probably mistaken.
Thanks again.
Dave.

No you are not mistaken but it depends HOW the front wheel are off the ground. If the front of the car is lifted by the 'old fashioned' method of lifting the body and letting the wheel hang then no problem but, if it is the 'specs' type lift where the front wheels are sitting in a cradle and cannot rotate then this can be a problem, if there is a VC then it will overheat and seize, if there is not one then (and this is a guess) I would assume it is more about lubrication of the centre differential than anything else, the thrust would be on the wrong side of the differential coming from the wheels as opposed being driven from the engine, the fact that the distance of towing is restricted to 50 miles and no more than 30 MPH might be the clue here, you can do it for a little while but not too long before damage occurs.

Here in Spain where your breakdown recovery cost is factored into your car insurance, when you call a 'grua' he will not turn up with anything less than a flat bed, winch the car on and call it done, never seen any other kind of recovery vehicle here.

@ Frank.....you are soooo right...I remember when we yoosta live in shoe box at side o road.......

regards

Dave
 
I have always loved the way such a big truck has that feeling of driving on rails round bends.
 
I have always loved the way such a big truck has that feeling of driving on rails round bends.

You may be surprised at the amount of people discard the AWD and go for a part time kit, and then try and tell you RWD is better than AWD, when you have over two tons going in a straight line it does not want to change direction, it is easier for 4 wheels to help it than 2, but they will then counter with 'it suits their driving style', fine if you like hanging the a*se out on a bend in your cruiser and do it day in and day out.

regards

Dave
 
That's the thing, whenever I've had a new vehicle, i've taken it somewhere to get a feel for it when it's about to get slippy. The Mk1 Shogun I had was so beautifully balanced with all my tools in the back it was very forgiving and I was able to fish tail it on RWD through a patch of black ice that caught out the car in front of me.
When the 80 came along I wasn't able to get it to slide…, at all!
 
Last edited:
Yes they will understeer with just rear wheel drive.

We only could afford the lid Dave.
 
Back
Top