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My Split Charge Thread

I feel like I am almost ready to start buying bits. HERE is what I have planned so far.

I have one manual cut-out switch at the back, but think I might add two more to the batteries (to make it easy to disconnect them for shipping).

Also not sure if I need to fuse the cable from the smart charger?

Any tips / comments are welcome.
 
Which smart charger are you planning on using? I'd have thought it would still need to be fused :think: Eitherway, you can't have too many fuses...
 
Justin_Elliott said:
Which smart charger are you planning on using? I'd have thought it would still need to be fused :think: Eitherway, you can't have too many fuses...

It's a 3 phase marine charger (Dolphin Reya). The charger is fused internally (25A). Had another look at the instructions and they suggest a circuit breaker. If this is a 20A charger I assume that the 20A is on the DC side. What size circuit breaker will it need on the AC side (instructions don't say)? 1A?
 
If the instructions don't say is there a label on the device, maybe stating input wattage? Bit unusual for a mains powered device not to state its power usage I think? If it really doesn't say, then assuming a worst case of it being 20A at 14.4V and 95% efficiency with a 240V nominal AC supply that would be 1.8A or there about so I'd go with a 3 amp fuse.
 
Cheers Jon. Found a French sticker on the charger - 1.6A.
 
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Some advise needed. Do I do the underbody protection (with cavity treatment) before or after I do the wiring (with cables running in the chassis rails)? Or does it not really matter?
 
I've found some excellent quality 185W Sharp mono-crystalline solar panels. I want to plug 2 in at a time (in parallel), to increase the charge current. While each panel is rated at 7.7A so theoretically could deliver up to 15A with 2 in parallel, it seems that I need a 30A/360W (at 12V) controller. If I was happy to use a regular PWM controller, no problem. But because these panels can deliver up to 24V I would rather use a MPPT controller to convert the extra voltage into extra current. While 30A MPPT controllers aren't impossible to find, the search becomes a hole lot more difficult when I want a 30A MPPT controller for AGM batteries. Anyone in this game that can point me in the right direction? I would prefer to keep it under £150 for the controller if possible.
 
Why not just use 2 separate controllers?
Keep the 2 systems separate?

You have a degree of redundancy then

Gra.
 
At the risk of being dof because I've only looked at some of this, have you considered the Cetek offerings - the CT250 I think. It has a partner unit too whose name I can't remember now. May be too expensive a set up though

Cheets
 
Graham said:
Why not just use 2 separate controllers?
Keep the 2 systems separate?

You have a degree of redundancy then.

It is something that I am considering as I will have a leisure battery in the trailer and another one in the truck - so it would allow me to charge them independently. However, I prefer a simpler solution i.e. 1 or 2 linked panels, with a single lead back to one controller mounted in the truck (the trailer battery will have a lead to the truck anyway, for alternator/mains charging). These units typically have a 10 year warranty, so I don't expect to have trouble with it. It does look like I can get 2x 20A AGM MPPT controllers for less than 1x 30-40A controller though :think:

Gary Stockton said:
At the risk of being dof because I've only looked at some of this, have you considered the Cetek offerings - the CT250 I think. It has a partner unit too whose name I can't remember now. May be too expensive a set up though

I'm assuming that you are refering to c-tek chargers rather than controllers? I already have a 20A mains charger as well for powered camp sites. The solar setup is for when we are totally off grid for a few days at a time e.g. NW Australia.
 
Yesterday I started phase 4 of my split charge installation - the first 3 phases being 1) research, 2) more research, and 3) buying stuff (quite a lot of stuff).

Phase 4 was converting from dual (parallel) batteries, to a single start battery.

I decided to keep the start battery on the driver side as this is where the fuse box is - this seemed as good a reason as I could think of. The passenger battery has very few connections: both +ve and -ve run into a sheath that drops almost straight down before they separate again at the other end, with the -ve bolted to the engine and the +ve carrying on backwards to the starter motor. Both the engine -ve bolt and starter motor +ve feed nut where tricky to reach, and required the wheel and bash plates to be removed for access. The +ve terminal is also connected to the +ve terminal on the driver side battery via a cable running over the rad fan shroud. These are the only 3 things connected to this battery, and with them undone the passenger battery loom comes out easily (there are 2 large cable ties that hold it in place).

I then ran a new 60mm2 sheathed cable (I had bought some previously out of curiosity) from the starter to the driver side positive battery terminal - routed the same way that the old cable ran up and over the rad fan shroud. I also ran a new 40mm2 sheathed cable from the -ve engine mounting point (on the left) to the start battery using the same route up and over the fan shroud.

Passenger side battery removed:

IMG_0583.jpg


On the driver side there was a short chassis earth that was now too short - the battery terminals on the new Odyssey battery are on the opposite side compared to the previous battery (toward the front rather than back, but still correct right vs left) - so I made a new 16mm2 sheathed lead. There is also what looks like a second engine -ve lead from the starter battery down to the bottom right side of the engine/gearbox - I re-attached this lead as it was getting dark and it could reach the new battery terminal, but I will replace this with a new 40mm2 sheathed cable as well.
On the positive battery terminal I connected the +ve feed for the fuse box, the new starter cable, the +ve for the new headlight loom, and the +ve for the Econokit relay. There will be more cables attached in a later phase e.g. the vsr.
I bought new marine grade battery clamps as well as an isolation terminal clamp. I was going to attach the positive marine clamp onto the isolation clamp (to have a quick disconnect in case of smoke), but the post on the isolation clamp is smaller than a battery terminal. So I connected the +ve cables directly to the isolation clamp.

Mounting the batteries looked like it was going to be a challenge. The Odyssey battery is longer, narrower and not as tall as the stock battery. The extra length meant that it didn't sit flat on the stock battery tray. Fortunately the Odyssey battery comes with its own battery box, so I drilled a few holes and riveted the battery box to the wheel arch. I'm not 100% happy with how secure it is, so will come back to this at some point to make it more secure. I'm also waiting for a rubber battery strap to arrive which, if attached in the correct places, could give the extra security that I want. (When I mount the leisure battery on the passenger side, I will probably have a local fabricator make a new battery tray for me.)

Battery box mounted:

IMG_0578.jpg


Once everything was hooked up, I put the isolation knob back and gave the starter a go. It started first time, on the button and no smoke :dance: And having driven it some more today, I'm think it runs slightly better too :thumbup:

Phase 4 complete:

IMG_0582.jpg


The hydraulic crimper that I bought is definitely worth a mention - what an amazingly easy to use tool, and does what it is supposed to, every time. The job would have taken twice as long without it. It comes with a range of dies for different thickness of cables / ring lugs - I used the 8mm, 35mm and 50mm dies for this job. Perfect crimps every time.

IMG_0581.jpg
 
Excellent. !

The hydraulic crimp tool can be very good value.
Must be careful not to "over crimp", but I am sure you know that any way.

Gra.
 
fridayman said:
Gary Stockton said:
At the risk of being dof because I've only looked at some of this, have you considered the Cetek offerings - the CT250 I think. It has a partner unit too whose name I can't remember now. May be too expensive a set up though

I'm assuming that you are refering to c-tek chargers rather than controllers? I already have a 20A mains charger as well for powered camp sites. The solar setup is for when we are totally off grid for a few days at a time e.g. NW Australia.

I've only just understood what you were talking about :doh: . The CTEK D250S is a DC-DC charger that looks like it might be exactly what I need.

UPDATE: It seems the DS250 cannot accept anything over 22V so won't work with my solar panels.
 
fridayman said:
The hydraulic crimper that I bought is definitely worth a mention - what an amazingly easy to use tool, and does what it is supposed to, every time. The job would have taken twice as long without it. It comes with a range of dies for different thickness of cables / ring lugs - I used the 8mm, 35mm and 50mm dies for this job. Perfect crimps every time.

IMG_0581.jpg

Fridayman

I’m also in the market for a crimping tool like the one you have. Which one did you get in the end and was it expensive?

Marius
 
I bought the £22.00 (I think) crimper off fleabay and it's been brilliant so far ... Comes in a red plastic case with different crimp dies and works a treat. Think that's the same as the one referenced above.

Just used again this last weekend to do my 12v power distribution ring-main. :clap:
 
Marius De Kock said:
Fridayman

I’m also in the market for a crimping tool like the one you have. Which one did you get in the end and was it expensive?

Marius

I got the same one as Ebay Item number: 180612516845
 
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