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Nissan well and truly stuck!

Now, I know as much about vehicle recovery as I do the precise atomic structure of penguin feet.. but I reckon even if I tried really really hard, I couldn't F that up any more with help !!! :lol:

Made a nice play pen for an LC though? :clap:

:character-kermit: :character-oscar: :character-grover:
 
LFN said:
Now, I know as much about vehicle recovery as I do the precise atomic structure of penguin feet..
:lol:
penguin-002.gif
:lol:
 
first:
NEVER tow with a chain or cable. :snooty:
then:
the driver of the skid steer should be re-educated. no traction = no action. easy on the go-pedal. :naughty:
the diffs are hung up so pull at an angle. :idea: 45 degrees causes the body to lose the suction and the vehicle becomes MUCH easier to recover. :!:

true rednecks in action :whistle:


a proper tugg'm kenetic rope does wonders when recovering a stuck vehicle in a gentle, controlled application. if you have never tried one, give it a try someday. you will never go back to a chain and probably never use a strap either.
 
Its a good job JC was not involved, he would have been slated for ruining the delicate land a water structure, look ate all the wildlife that has been killed off ! :violin:
 
Damn those poor Russian farmers for not having the correct kinetic recovery equipment to go with their ancient farm machinery - or the combined mental intellect of a web based forum to draw on out in the wilderness. :roll:

What were they thinking?

Comrade Chriski
 
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True, a bit easy to point and judge.. but I think even I would've tried it forwards first... the way it was pointing and path of least resistance. Don't misunderstand.. I probably would've slipped over and drowned in the mud just to add to the calamity... at least they got through without anyone dying :thumbup: ... still feel the theme tune to the muppets would've made a good soundtrack though :lol: ... anyone else think it looked a little staged?
 
I rather thought that too. Not got the wit to pull a car out but excellent camera work and editing skills?

Don't worry, LFN, this isn't the serious part of the forum. if they were real Russian farmers they A wouldn't have any diesel and B would be too smashed on vodka to have turned up.
Pulling out forwards was waaay too obvious.


Chrisminski
 
Chris said:
Pulling out forwards was waaay too obvious.

Not always, when I was doing recovery work for a living. We were trainned to pull them out they way they went it. So in this case it would have been out backwards.

I use to be able to work how more "pull" would be needed for the depth it had sunk into and type of ground. Cannot remember it now.

Paul
 
Oh it's something like:

Density per M2 of earth Hours of daylight left Sq rt of who gives a f***
-------------------- x ------------------- x ------------------ = pull forwards on ground like that
Rated line pull degree of panic Number of options left


I'm pretty sure anyway. Or it might be pull backwards. Now I can't remember


Chris
 
:lol: :lol: :lol:

... off to remove coffee from my nose!
 
yah, silly russians ...
:auto-driving:
a little sensitive eh?
<especially since i am a poor Canadian farmer's son> ;)
Chris said:
Damn those poor Russian farmers for not having the correct kinetic recovery equipment to go with their ancient farm machinery - or the combined mental intellect of a web based forum to draw on out in the wilderness. :roll:

What were they thinking?

Comrade Chriski
 
Try this, from Pirate 4x4

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavist ... index.html

Surface resistance

A pull of 1/10 LW will cause a free wheeling truck to move on a hard, level surface.

A pull of 1/3 LW will cause a free wheeling truck to move on a softer surface, such as grass or gravel,


Damage resistance:

A pull of 2/3 LW will be required to move if the wheels cannot rotate (as if the brakes were fully applied), the pull required to overcome the resistance (drag) the truck id 2/3 or 67% of the LW. Damage resistance includes surface resistance (i.e. you only use one or the other)


Stuck (mire) resistance:

A pull of 100% of LW will be required if the truck is stuck to a depth of the sidewall on the tires.

A pull of 200% of LW will be required if the truck is stuck to the hubs.

A pull of 300% of LW will be required if the truck is stuck to the frame..

Mire resistance includes damage resistance (i.e. you only use one or the other)


Grade (slope) resistance:

Upgrade (vehicle has to be recovered up a slope or grade)

15 degrees - add 25% of LW

30 degrees - add 50% of LW

45 degrees - add 75% of LW

Vehicle recovery on level ground - no correction

Downgrade (vehicle has to be recovered down a slope or grade)

15 degrees - subtract 25% of LW

30 degrees - subtract 50% of LW

45 degrees - subtract 75% of LW
 
Damn. Sorry, my bad. I must have been thinking of something else.

Stuckness > pulling power = still stuck
Stuckness < pulling power = not stuck any more; off to the chippy

Or is that too simplistic? :ugeek:

Chris
 
Chris, yes just to pull is simplistic as you can do more damage and still not get it out. We use to use up t 4 x 35T (2 on each lorry) and a 25T winch on a 3rd. Also a lot of people with winches do not know what a pully block is.

I lot of damage can be done if I winch is not used right.

Paul
 
Paul. It wasn't a serious thread. Please tell me you knew that.

C
 
I know Chris, that is why I did not use your name in my reposts ;) But some people are a danger to themselfs even when left in an empty room!!! ;)

Paul
 
Where's the door, WHERE'S THE DOOR??? :shock:

Oh, sorry, I'm outside :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops:

See what you mean Paul.

But Mudd's Law does hold true here. And that states, for every body that is more stuck than you have force available to get you out, it's always further than 3 miles to the nearest farmhouse. And that's science!

Chris
 
ummm, if you are stuck to your frame then your diffs are mired underneath the mud (not the water on top of the mud but the actual mud)

their reasoning is flawed.

unless you want to leave your diffs under the mud and just have a frame and body to take home it would be best to jack the vehicle up and stick (something) under the diffs ... we usually use de-limbed trees as slide ramps. this keeps the suction away from the drivetrain and body and allows for a much more gentle tug.

no one on this site actually uses chains to retrieve a stuck vehicle ... do they? :doh:
 
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