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No heating

Rich, IF a previous owner has resorted to an overdose of liquid head/gasket fix in the past, that MAY block the matrix, or impede flow. Some of them claim the products will seal cracks in blocks too, so could easily play havoc with matrix/heating system.
I have seen some parts/hoses that look like your pic, although there are normally traces in the header tank, which is a giveaway.
Hope it's an easy(ish) fix.
 
I'm inclined to agree with TM. If there is flow through the heater without a lot of heat extraction then it does point to the matrix being compromised. If there had been proper coolant strength there shouldn't be any rusty deposits on the inside of the hoses.
IF it comes to having to take the matrix out I'd tale it to a radiator specialist to see if it can be re cored, Toyodiy is showing the cost of a matrix at 413 euros (if they are available) . I was quoted £660 for the 80 series but they are no longer available.
As I've said before, I got away with a second hand one so that may be an option, TonyToyota on here could well be your saviour, he's breaking a Collie and I know he has the dash already out.
 
Roughtrax is showing £142 for a new matrix, though they're out of stock. The labour to get in is a bigger concern tbh.
 
I tried an aftermarket heater matrix for the 80, it was similar but not dimensionally the same, therefore didn't fit in the heaterbox snugly so I sent it back. Side by side with the real thing it wasn't made with the same precision. First I'd get yours out and see if it can be cleaned out somehow, second option would be a complete second hand unit.
 
Ran some water through the firewall hoses, flowed just fine. I'm now wondering if it needed a top up as the water was a little below the top of the radiator. Heater pipes are clean inside.

Found why there's no rear heating, the heater has been bypassed by a small loop of tube. I assume there was a leak and they couldn't be arsed to fix it.

Pulled the expansion tank, full of gunk. Seems to be fine metallic particles, they do look like copper.
IMG_20220102_124258.jpg


Radiator is out, not on that bad nick but since I have a replacement it's getting changed.
IMG_20220102_124154.jpg
 
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To me it looks like your car has been run without anti freeze. Anti freeze also has anti corrosion capabilities and stops the inside of your engine rusting up and protects your core plugs from rotting out.
flush the block through before fitting a new radiator and then use some good quality anti freeze.
 
I have flushed it out today after the rain stopped. Going to fit the new radiator and have big bottle of red antifreeze on go in.
 
Rich, don't want to piss on your cornflakes, but that copper residue is not oxide/rust (obviously) and found in some of the quick fix head/block sealers, and as said previously residue of that in header tank is giveaway. I would investigate further before using your new red coolant.
 
Investigate what though?

I don't think I'm losing coolant currently, no overheating issues, and I can flow water through the heater matrix just fine.

In other news, trying to get the new radiator in and the atf fitting is the wrong size and also not like the old one (so I can't just use that).
IMG_20220103_123723.jpg


It looks like it's an AN-6 fitting from the size (measured at 0.51"), so I'm thinking I can just swap it out for one with larger tubing.
IMG_20220103_124433.jpg


Oddly the fitting on the other side of the trans cooler is the correct size for the hose.
 
Rich, cant help with the fittings, but have you reverse flushed the whole system, and matrix in particular on its own ? You want ALL that copper gunk/shite out of it before you contaminate your new red coolant. As your rear heater has been bypassed from a leak as you suspect, that stuff couldve been poured liberally in the system to stop it and didnt work, hence the bypass.
 
I fully flushed my matrix and block with a hose. Which probably means there's a ton of tap water in there now but I'll just have to cope with that. Matrix water was pretty manky but it ran clear after a good flush.
 
Ahh, got you now Rich.
Sometimes folk think a one way flush and that's the lot, good to see you're on the ball, mate.
 
To wrap this up, I got the new oil fitting this week and installed it today. Everything tightened up, water filled. Atf filled.

Gave it a run down the road to get some warmth and circulation. Heating is red hot. No leaks. I am a happy camper.
 
Looking at a 97 1KZ-TE Parado today for a customer ( the same one I changed the thermostat on up thread ) and the heater is warm but not boiling hot.....
Took it for a thrash around the tracks and couldn't get the temp gauge to get more than under 1/2 on the gauge ( about 3.30 on the clock face if you like )
It's a full spec import with climate etc and all that seems to work fine with the exception the A/C light stays on but doesn't engage the A/C at any time even with the dial turned fully cold .
Heater valve is being moved full travel so next option will be reverse flush the matrix as both supply and return metal pipes to the matrix get hot .
Not being a 90 series man I'm unsure where the temp gauge would normally run but to me it seems low .
Thermostat we fitted was genuine Toyota ex Roughtrax and coolant is clear Red although that I would expect as previously we have fitted a new cylinder head and rad due to the dreaded head crack syndrome......
Any ideas ?
 
On my 5VZ 90 the temperature gauge stays just below 1/2 way - I've heard it only goes higher if you seriously overheat it.
 
Engine temp gauge is lazy bored and useless if yours ever passes 3.30 its probably going to shoot into the red in the next minute .
 
I've seen instructions on how to make this gauge more linear like an old school temp gauge. I think they were on IH8MUD but were for a 4Runner. If my knock sensor repair works I might attempt this
 
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