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Power Window Motor/Mechanism

frank rabbets

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Mar 1, 2010
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My 1995 80 has done 150,000 miles. Should I strip and overhaul the power window motor and mechanism on the drivers side ? I see Chris, at least, has had trouble. Don't want to be left with window stuck down. I just wonder if they fail at a predictable age.
 
Frank., if it's working leave it alone. My theory is that the rubbers harden and successive owners do nothing about it. This puts a huge strain on the pinion gear on the motor and the teeth on the rack. Eventually, the bush that the pinion revolves in, wears resulting in the pinion 'weather-vaning' around as it spins. This causes extra load and occasionally jamming as the teeth get into bother. Having taken lots to bits, the motors themselves seem indestructible. They're very strong. But the pinion bush isn't. If you get them in time, changing the rubbers relieves the issue. But if the bush is stuffed (like mine) swapping the rubbers makes sod all difference. This week I bought a pair of new motors with regulators, all assembled, from Milner. No they are not OEM but two units was less than an original motor and give that the regulators and racks are 2 decades old, there seemed little point doing one without the other. As soon as I get one fitted, I'll post something up. Do I expect 20 years out of them? I don't expect to live another 20 years to be driving the thing so who cares.
 
BTW they don't really just fail one day. They get slower and stiffer and you end up pulling on the glass with the engine running and 2000 revs on
 
Can't get it done this weekend as I'm up in Scotland needlessly slaughtering the wildlife before we have to hand it back to the EU
 
Frank., if it's working leave it alone. My theory is that the rubbers harden and successive owners do nothing about it. This puts a huge strain on the pinion gear on the motor and the teeth on the rack. Eventually, the bush that the pinion revolves in, wears resulting in the pinion 'weather-vaning' around as it spins. This causes extra load and occasionally jamming as the teeth get into bother. Having taken lots to bits, the motors themselves seem indestructible. They're very strong. But the pinion bush isn't. If you get them in time, changing the rubbers relieves the issue. But if the bush is stuffed (like mine) swapping the rubbers makes sod all difference. This week I bought a pair of new motors with regulators, all assembled, from Milner. No they are not OEM but two units was less than an original motor and give that the regulators and racks are 2 decades old, there seemed little point doing one without the other. As soon as I get one fitted, I'll post something up. Do I expect 20 years out of them? I don't expect to live another 20 years to be driving the thing so who cares.
Out of interest chris, would the old motors fit the new racks?
 
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Looking at the part CG, they look like a direct pattern so there's no reason why gen motors wouldn't fit the bandit regulators. But for the money, I just went straight in with a complete pair. I have a bucket full of old motors and it took me an afternoon to make one decent one out of parts. In the end I used a left hand motor cross wired to run backwards on a right door. What a faff.
 
No no no Chris. Keep up Scotland is in the EU, we aren't, so you'll have to come back via Greece like everyone else.
 
Well I put the two new Milner regulators in today. And .....


Wowser. I have turbo windows. They go down super slick and smooth which is no real triumph I guess but coming back up? I can shut both at once with no loss of speed, straining, groaning or the alternator needing to hit max output to do it. In fact, they'll close without the engine running.

I pulled the old mech off one side and had a twiddle about. There's a fair bit of backlash in the quadrant and pinion. On the new one out of the packet - none at all. Nothing.

Needles to say, I am cock-a-hoop. As pleased as Mr Toad.
 
Well it's only a few bolts and plastic fittings Frank, not a real challenge. But thanks all the same. I'd say for anyone with window issues this is a fix in a packet.
 
Chris what's up with the original design do you think ? Weak motor or inefficient mechanism ? I've never believed in the stiff channel thing as mines been like it from nearly new at least. Power windows seam to get loose with time not stiff. OK you may get temporary relief if you change channels. I had thought it was the wiring not being thick enough as if I try and put both my fronts up at the same time they stall. One at a time is not too bad but there again I have to up the voltage with throttle.
 
Honestly Frank? I think it's about them being20+ years old. Firstly the window rubbers get harder. This adds strain on the motor and mechanism which promotes wear and failure. Just posted a new thread on the windows.
 
I know that it does but why does harder rubber make the glass slower? I would have thought that soft stickier rubber would make it slower.
 
Can't say Chas, but we all know that in sunny, warm conditions they go up and down better than on a freezing cold morning.
 
Can't say Chas, but we all know that in sunny, warm conditions they go up and down better than on a freezing cold morning.
Yes we do know Chris but it puzzles me as to why.
 
Toyota defect somewhere. Mine were slow from nearly new. i.e. 1998 when I bought my 80 with 30k on clock. I've had loads of electric window cars and have had no trouble.
 
Mine are most affected by rain. Cold they work, hot they work better, but if it rains, they stop half way at any temperature.

Like the look of the Milner units, at that price (assuming they work in my old rubbers) it's got to be worth a gamble.
 
Hey clive, I replaced the rubbers with new original items at great expense and it made no difference whatsoever, so I cleaned one of the old ones and put it back in drivers door, no difference !!! so I guess it is the motors, I'm going to do the same as chris and give milners a shout !!!!
 
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