Product of choice for rust?

[Anwar]

I was wondering what is the preferred rust coating product. The obvious comes from Hammerite, either as paint or wax, and there is a rust treatment called Metal Ready. But I'd like to know what the forum favours.

Thanks, Anwar

 

[Rodger]

Hi Anwar,

I use POR15 and it really works but there is a lot of preparation involed which includes using Metal Ready but the process really works well. I've used Hammerite anti-rust products in the past and found them to be useless. POR15 is not cheap but with anti-rust products perhaps you only get what you pay for.

I've tried numerous anti-rust products over the years but the only one worth it's label is POR15.

Regards,

 

[clivehorridge]

Moons ago it was Jenolite. The rust turned a bluish mauve and you washed it off with water. After drying, paint with whatever you want and I never had problems with rust blistering through afterwards.

 

[Gary820]

Been looking at the por 15 products for cleaning and re painting the chassis etc.

 

[yogi]

Hammerite is rubbish, don't waste your time. It just seems to glue the rust together so it stops flaking. Looks pretty in the short term though!

 

[joinerman]

Product of choice for rust

A Mk5 Smiley Transit. lol

 

[clivehorridge]

http://prorust.com/jenolite-com/

I see Jenolite is no more, looks like they divert you to Prorust, whoever they are!

 

[Chas]

I've used for many years what used to be called Kingston Kurust I think they must have been taken over by Hammerite as it's now called Hammerite Kurust works the same as Clives Jenolite, it converts the rust to a bluish mauve rustproof finish. Can be painted or not, I never had any problems about rust returning. Rodger in what way did you find Hammerite products to be useless?

 

[uHu]

Rust Bullet. Works. Probably similar to por15.

Owatrol oil also works, but has to be reapplied. Probably similar to Lanoline products.

 

[clivehorridge]

As a born sceptic, aren't they all much the same? Gluegle says it's phosphoric acid that turns the rust mauve, so the chemists among us will know what's going on.

Purely scientifically, Iron oxide + phosphoric acid = mauve! There, how hard is chemistry!

Slap some paint on and sell it... Job done!

 

[Towpack]

Rust either has to be removed altogether or rendered inert by one of the rust 'converters'. This arrests the oxidising process so you can then paint on a protective finish to block air & water from getting at the metal which would start the rust process all over again. Any finish painted or sprayed directly onto rust is a waste of time IMO.

 

[Ben]

I've used for many years what used to be called Kingston Kurust I think they must have been taken over by Hammerite as it's now called Hammerite Kurust works the same as Clives Jenolite, it converts the rust to a bluish mauve rustproof finish. Can be painted or not, I never had any problems about rust returning. Rodger in what way did you find Hammerite products to be useless?

I used Hammerite Krust for quite a few years and it does work well in the short term, but I've always found the rust comes back through eventually and the new layer of paint flakes off.

I'm now using Dinitrol rust converter, which supposedly converts the rust and primes in one coat. So far so good, but I need to give it a few months longer to see whether any rust comes back through or not.

 

[clivehorridge]

Rust either has to be removed altogether or rendered inert by one of the rust 'converters'. This arrests the oxidising process so you can then paint on a protective finish to block air & water from getting at the metal which would start the rust process all over again. Any finish painted or sprayed directly onto rust is a waste of time IMO.

Agreed! It's strange, stainless steel (I'm told) oxidizes and that layer of oxidization protects it from oxidizing further, hence rust free.

Also, I remember someone on the forum saying that painting a chassis is illegal. Did I dream that or do I recall it correctly? I'm useless at websites and I've searched for that post, but can't find it. I wonder if it can be true?

 

[clivehorridge]

Ah, ha found it

Shayne if you paint the chassis in the UK, you go straight to Prison.... don't do it chap, don't do it!

Strange laws we have. You could work for a car manufacturer painting chassis all day, go home and put brush to chassis and it's porridge for breakfast!

 

[yogi]

Is that really true? What if you do a full bare metal rebuild on a classic car say? It doesn't really make any sense

 

[clivehorridge]

I don't know if its true or not, I'm not a lawyer. I could ask one I suppose, I work with plenty

I always find myself squibbing a drop of (clean) oil into the chassis vent holes. I like oil, it creeps a lot and in theory it would get into the corners and the welds, the first bits to rust it seems.

Luckily, my 80's chassis is not very rusty, so painting it wouldn't improve things much. There's a bit at the ends at the front where it's exposed where the bumper bolts to it, but I keep that oiled from time to time.

Sorry, I've drifted off thread a bit, I'll shut up now.

 

[Olazz]

Ah, ha found it

Originally Posted by Olazz
Shayne if you paint the chassis in the UK, you go straight to Prison.... don't do it chap, don't do it!
Strange laws we have. You could work for a car manufacturer painting chassis all day, go home and put brush to chassis and it's porridge for breakfast!

Sorry guys, my comment to Shayne was tongue in cheek. I thought he was asking the question as a joke, surely he wasn't serious????
I didn't think anyone would take the comment seriously!! Paint away to your hearts content, no prison awaits.

 

[majic79]

Purely scientifically, Iron oxide + phosphoric acid = mauve! There, how hard is chemistry!

It's a competitive reaction - to convert rust back to iron, you have to remove the oxygen. Pure Phosphor spontaneously combust on exposure to air, so it really wants to bond with oxygen. You paint phosphoric acid on rust and it competes with the iron for the oxygen and you end up with ferric phosphate (which is a lovely mauve colour) and can be left in place (it's relatively inert and protects the surface) or rubbed off to expose bare metal. Paint over with whatever you feel like using

 

[frank rabbets]

Ther is no cure for rust. "Cure" ? what do they mean by that? It does not make sense. I doubt whether any product guarantees rust removal. After having restored cars for 50 years now I can reliably say that if you have rust and don't want it any more it has to be completely removed either by sandblasting or dipping in hydrochloric acid. The problem with cars is that the rust is worst in the box sections and metal seams where water cannot dry out. These areas cannot be treated practically. What you can do is to use 50/50 waxoil/turps mixture and fill up all the box sections on a hot day then drain them out. This mixture tends to creep everywhere. Also on the next hot day the remains tend to turn liquid again and recreep. For exposed areas remove as much rust as possible and spray with boiling water to remove salt and dry quickly. Then use thick oil sprayed on. If you like a painted finish use etch primer first.

In 1980's I was restoring Aston Martins from the late 50's which were 20 years old. Their chassis were completely free of rust because of the good quality steel used. Then later on I was restoring the same construction of Astons from 1963 which were completely rotted out due to the very poor quality steel from the 60's. On these cars I had to manufacture new lower chassis then weld the two together.

Frank

 

[Cptsideways]

Phosphoric acid is all thats in those rust converter products, your friendly dairy farmer has gallons of the stuff - It known at Milk Stone Remover. it costs about £1 a litre or free if you know a farmer