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Programming a replacement remote fob on a 3.0TD version Colorado

I think the one I've got is a genuine Toyota spare. It's a full key, not just the fob bit, looks the same as the original and has the Toyota logo on it. Not that that's any guarantee of authenticity. The £3 eBay ones probably come with whatever logo you fancy..
If its got a dot near the top of the blade (near the plastic bit), I think its probably genuine.
 
Nope. No dot on either key. So, if you're right, that means my 'proper one' is a copy too.
 
That procedure looks about what I used...

OK. I've just tried that lot and didn't even get past the first hurdle; programming the remote. I've highlighted the bits which aren't clear. Perhaps someone who's done this can advise:


*Please program remote first before cutting key --why does this matter? My key has already been cut by the looks of things

- Remote Programming Steps:

1.Program remote once received (Central locking will work now)

2.Take key to locksmith shop and get them to cut your key to code

3.Program transponder chip (this will now start car)

- Remote Programming Procedure:

1. Open Driver side door

2. Put the Original key in and out of ignition 2 times --I'm just putting the key in and taking it out twice. Not turning the ignition to ACC or ON or anything?

3. Close and open driver door 2 times

4. Put Original Key in and out of ignition once

5. Shut and open door twice

6. Close door

7. Insert key Turn ignition on --is this the original key or the new one?

8. Turn ignition off and remove key

9. Door locks will cycle

10. Press lock and unlock together for 1 second then lock button --on the original key or the new one?

(To delete remotes turn the key on and off 5 times, door locks will cycle 5 times. Turn the key on then off. Open shut door)

11. Locks will cycle put key in ignition turn to on then off --new key or old one?

12.Remove key from ignition, close door and test remote

<snip> The rest is about programming the key itself. But I've not even got that far!



EDIT: I've just tried again, substituting the new key for all the steps in red above, where it wasn't specified which key was being referred to. Still no joy. At step 9, the door locks don't cycle. Incidentally, my spare key does unlock the ignition, as in I can turn it to ON and the dashboard lights up. But I'm presuming the truck will refuse to start because of the immobiliser. I didn't want to try that before consulting the forum, in case it completely fecks up trying to pair that key and makes he truck go into lockdown mode. Last thing I need is Boris Johnson turning up to tell me to 'stay safe'.
 
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OK. I've just tried that lot and didn't even get past the first hurdle; programming the remote. I've highlighted the bits which aren't clear. Perhaps someone who's done this can advise:


*Please program remote first before cutting key --why does this matter? My key has already been cut by the looks of things

- Remote Programming Steps:

1.Program remote once received (Central locking will work now)

2.Take key to locksmith shop and get them to cut your key to code

3.Program transponder chip (this will now start car)

- Remote Programming Procedure:

1. Open Driver side door

2. Put the Original key in and out of ignition 2 times --I'm just putting the key in and taking it out twice. Not turning the ignition to ACC or ON or anything?

3. Close and open driver door 2 times

4. Put Original Key in and out of ignition once

5. Shut and open door twice

6. Close door

7. Insert key Turn ignition on --is this the original key or the new one?
OLD (remember new one isnt necessarily cut yet)
8. Turn ignition off and remove key

9. Door locks will cycle

10. Press lock and unlock together for 1 second then lock button --on the original key or the new one?
NEW
(To delete remotes turn the key on and off 5 times, door locks will cycle 5 times. Turn the key on then off. Open shut door)

11. Locks will cycle put key in ignition turn to on then off --new key or old one?
OLD
12.Remove key from ignition, close door and test remote

<snip> The rest is about programming the key itself. But I've not even got that far!
 
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PS remember I've no idea if this works on a 90, I've only done it on a 120 and that ebay advert says the key works on a 120....
 
...
 

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PS remember I've no idea if this works on a 90, I've only done it on a 120 and that ebay advert says the key works on a 120....

Oh yeah. I noticed that in the ad. Maybe the 90 has a different procedure?

Re the dots on the keys: yes, now I see there are two very faint dots. I didn't even notice them before. they just look like your everyday scratches or dents. But there is one on each key. Though not in the same place.
 
OK. Partial success. I found this, which worked to programme the fob part of the key. I can now lock and unlock the doors with my spare key:

2000 Toyota Land Cruiser Keyless Entry Remote Fob Smart Key Programming Instructions - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]
1. Start with key out of ignition, drivers door is open all others closed and drivers door is unlocked.

2. Insert key into the ignition (Do NOT Turn) and Pull key out.

3. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.
A. Using the power lock switch on the drivers door, perform 5 lock/unlock cycles starting with lock. Use an even pace and try to go about one cycle per second. (1Cycle = 1 lock and 1 unlock).
B. Close, then open drivers door.

4. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.
A. Using the power lock switch on the drivers door, perform 5 lock/unlock cycles starting with lock. Use an even pace and try to go about one cycle per second. (1 Cycle = 1 lock and 1 unlock).
B. Insert the key in the ignition cylinder.
C. Turn the ignition to ON (Do NOT Start) then back to OFF.
D. Remove the key from the ignition.

5. Within 3 seconds the power door locks should cycle automatically indicating successful entry into programming mode. Return to step 1 if the locks do not cycle at this point.

6. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.
A. Press the lock and unlock buttons on the remote simultaneously for 1 second.
B. Immediately after letting go of the lock and unlock buttons, press the lock button by itself and hold for 2 seconds. Within 3 seconds, the door locks should cycle once indicating successful programming. If the door locks do not cycle, or cycle twice. repeat steps A and B in step 6 as your remote has not been accepted.
C. Repeat steps A and B in step 6 for each new remote.

7. Close drivers door.

I didn't have as much luck with the follow-up part, for programming the actual ignition key itself. Could be user error but I prefer to think yet more unclear instructions. The set of instructions for programming the remote are quite clear that you begin the procedure sitting in the car with the driver's door open. This second set don't give any info about that at all. I tried following these instructions with the door closed and the alarm went off two or three times. So thought I'd retire to the pavilion to think things over, before the neighbours came out and lynched me. After I managed to get the alarm to shut up, the new key would turn over the engine, but it wouldn't start. So presuming still immobilised:

2000 Toyota Land Cruiser Ignition Transponder Chip Key Programming Instruction - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]

Use this procedure to add a key to the system

Must have your master Toyota key ready (black key)
1. Insert black programmed key into ignition.

2. Press and release accelerator pedal 5 times within 15 seconds of inserting key into ignition.

3. Press and release brake pedal 6 times within 20 seconds of step 2.

4. Remove black key from ignition switch.

5. Insert new unprogrammed key into ignition within 10 seconds of step 4.

6. Press and release accelerator pedal once within 10 seconds of step 5.

7. Once these steps are performed properly you will see the immobiliser warning lamp begin to flash and after one minute the lamp will stop flashing. Once the immobiliser warning lamp stops flashing you will have 10 seconds to insert an additional key to be programmed.

8. Within 10 seconds of inserting key into ignition press and release accelerator pedal once.

9. Immobiliser warning lamp will flash and after one minute the lamp will shut off.
 
Yeah. But I can't understand why the alarm kept going off. I was in the car with my original key and the new key, which had just had the fob part of it successfully programmed on me. So surely their proximity [especially that of the master key] should have disabled the alarm --even if I did cock up somewhere along the lines, while trying to programme the new key?
 
Don't think it's clever enough to work off proximity for the alarm, I think the alarm and immobiliser are different systems - on the 120 anyway.

Did you get the immobiliser light flashing as described? Are you sure you didn't press the lock button by accident while getting the keys in and out? At what stage did the alarm go off?

I've been in the same situation trying to do this lot with neighbours wondering why your slaming doors 5 times etc so I can sympathise!
 
I'm thinking now I may have caused it by locking the doors while I was in the vehicle and then moving about. I'd just programmed the fob part of the new key and was testing it worked, while sitting inside. so may have ended up with the doors locked. I did notice a wee red light come on near the radio, which I now believe is the 'alarm is armed' indicator.

The alarm then went off just as I pressed the accelerator pedal as part of the "Press and release accelerator pedal 5 times within 15 seconds of inserting key into ignition." stage. However, pretty sure that my original key was still in the ignition at this point, so I'm surprised the alarm triggered. Maybe locking the doors with the new key still set the alarm, even though the original key was in the ignition at the time?

Believe it or not, this 20+ year old truck is the most modern vehicle I've ever owned. So, all this electronic jiggery-pokery and alarm/immobiliser shenanigans is all new to me.
 
I recently had two transponder fold away key spares made by Murray Storm (he also new provided keys for my Subaru) and could not get either the keyless entry or ignition sequence to work then remembered my Collie came with two keys. Having swapped over my original keys It looks as though both the sequences will only work with a 'master' and not a secondary 'valet' key.
 
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