Question about engine replacement

[Adrian North]

Hi people again

Well I have had my cylinder head taken off, tested and skimmed to make it flat but the cooling system is still overpressurising It only blows out of the overflow tank when the engine goes over 3000 rpm. Whilst in the UK I can more or less prevent that from happening but offroad that probably won't happen.

I am now wondering what to do to be honest - I could replace the head but am worried in case that doesn't fix the problem and then that would be more money down the drain. Since we want a vehicle for our expeditions as far as I can see I have a few options

1. 1) Fit a new reconditioned engine

• 2) Buy another vehicle[/list:2wl9zf71]
  
  The latter would probably be the best but more expensive and, apart from the engine, I love the Colorado so my question(s) is/are
  
  • a) What do people think about changing the engine?
  • b) Can I take out the 1KZ engine and put in the D4D engine? (I am guessing the answer is no)[/list:2wl9zf71]
    
    Also can anyone recommend a reconditioned engine supplier?
    
    Thanks
    
    Adrian

 

[Beau]

Are you 100% sure that is it flat? Any little crack, even a hairline one would be enough to pressurise the cooling system. Did you replace the head gasket? And as you have skimmed it, you would need a thicker gasket I believe...

Your cheapest and best option would be to replace the head completely, with a new one from roughtrax costing you close to £700 I believe. Don't go for a cheap ebay head!!!

Or a second hand head, make sure it is a genuine toyota one though!

You can pick up these engines second hand for about £750 but again, you dont know if there are any problems with them...

I have seen one person on the pradopoint forum do the swap but I would say it would require a lot of time and £££ and would probably be easier just selling yours and buying the newer D4D model.

 

[Adrian North]

Beau,

Many thanks for the reply - yep when it was skimmed a brand new thick gasket was put in

Adrian

 

[BobMurphy]

Hi people again

Well I have had my cylinder head taken off, tested and skimmed to make it flat but the cooling system is still overpressurising.

By 'Tested' I assume you mean "Crack Tested". This is not easy to do cold - are you sure it was a thorough job ??

You have had the head skimmed, but what about the face of the block ?? On mine it was the block that wasn't flat and when I put a new Roughtrax head on it it still leaked. I had to replace the gasket again and on the second attempt I used some jointing paste - I've not had trouble since (and I tow horses with it).

Have you checked the thermostat ?? If its not opening you could get over-pressurising when it gets hot (over 3,000 RPM ??).

Is the radiator up to scratch ?? Make sure its thoroughly cleaned-out (inside & out).

Are you carrying heavy loads and/or towing ?? if so, check that the viscous fan is cutting-in when it should. Are you hearing a 'Roar' when it gets hot ??

I wouldn't consider swapping the engine at this stage as you could just be buying trouble. Its a bit of a pain but I would change the head gasket for a genuine Toyota one and use some jointing compound on the new one (don't block the camshaft oil feed at the rear, next to No. 4 cylinder ). I would also put a new thermostat in.

Then see how it goes.

If its still leaking I would go for a Roughtrax head. Once the top end is sorted the rest should be fine, we don't see many reported problems with the bottom-end of these lumps

Keep us posted

Bob.

 

[Graham]

I thing you have pretty well answered your question.

b) Can I take out the 1KZ engine and put in the D4D engine? (I am guessing the answer is no)
.
Swapping the engine isn't that big of a job,,,,,,,,,,,
compared to getting it running.

Your 1KZ has almost zero electrical control in comparison to the 1KD-FTV which is the D4-d in Land Cruisers.
Toyota use the D4-d terminology in almost all their diesel powered vehicles, 1KD-FTV is the engine designation dropped into the Land Cruisers (3.0L)

Buy an old LC3 is a better option than engine swap.

Gra.

 

[wobbly]

As well as the bits Bob siggested, make sure you use new head bolts when refitting the head, they deform.

The gasket should be a 5 hole one.

Pete

 

[Adrian North]

Thanks everyone for taking the time to reply and sorry if any of this appears obvious to anyone - I am a mechanical kn*b and am trying to get my head around everything.

As far as I know the head gasket they (the mechanics who looked at it last time) put in was the thickest they could get - if I take it off again and get the engine block skimmed (or whatever would need to be done to make sure it is flat) would that mean the engine would have to come out?

The thing that worries me is whether any of this work would truly sort out the problem if so does anyone have any dea of how much that might cost? - I seem to have lost faith in the engine and am not sure whether spending the money would sort it.

Sorry for all the dumb questions

Adrian

 

[Beau]

Yes, I think the complete engine would need to come out for that

It may be a cheaper option to swap the engine for a low milleage Jap import engine.

When my head went I paid £1500 including labour to swap the complete engine over with a low mileage one, as skimming the head didn't solve the problem. I also noticed that if you have been driving it long with the cracked head, coolant can get into the pitons and the bored and can deteriorate them over time leading to a new bottom end.

Therefore it may be a cheaper option to just replace the complete engine, and you are guaranteed that the problem would be solved.

 

[Rodger]

Having experienced the identical problem some years ago, but with a Shogun, we found that that the radiator was blocked... only that was £3 grand later after a new head and a full engine rebuild. The rad appeared to have coolant passing through it but we later discovered that it was feeding through the engine. If you've not taken the rad out and had it fully checked....

Try changing the rad first before you have the head torn off again. A rad is much cheaper than a new head.

Hope that helps,

Good luck

 

[Adrian North]

Rodger,

Thanks - the old radiator went last year so the one we have now is new

Beau, where did you get your engine from?

Adrian

 

[Beau]

Rodger,

Thanks - the old radiator went last year so the one we have now is new

Beau, where did you get your engine from?

Adrian

I used a specialist engine company who did the swap in london. I believe the company don't exist any more. They told me they imported the engine from Japan as it is easily available there and they have low miles.

If you are planning on keeping the cruiser for a long time, then theres no harm in spending some £££ and she'll end up running like new again.

 

[wobbly]

Ozzymondo had a very similar problem with his 3.0 lump in his KZJ78 - after ages of trying to track it down, he threw in the towel and sold the truck, getting an 80 instead.

I would either get another engine, or change the car.

If you get the block out and skimmed, thats £500 you couldve put towards the £1500.00 of a replacement engine. And what if it still doesnt work?

Sorry to sound like the prophet of doom, but you arent a mechanic and are going to have to pay for every job, and I can see you chasing this problem.

Or.....

Take the engine to someone who can sort it for you, someone you can trust. Julian at Overland cruisers springs to mind.

fraid to say we see too many threads where people are using a local mechanic and its clear they have no idea, and are guessing at the cost of the punter.

Pete

 

[Adrian North]

Pete,

Many thanks for your reply. I'm beginning to think along the same lines although I might go along to Overland Cruisers to see what they might have to say as they have much more relevant eperience than my local (good but not a 4x4 expert) mechanics.

Adrian

 

[LandCruiser1978]

From my experience the kzj engine suffers from internal cracks in the water jacket between combustion chamber and water jacket..
so when cold or driven slowly when hot no apparent problems only once hot and revs above 3k does the problems occur ..
more common on the autos i've found

so once head is hot the cracks open within the head above certain revs .

The test i always do is warm engine (take for a run ) release pressure cap carefully .. shouldn't have must presssure .
then rev engine . if you get a BIG mushroom / volcano of water from the rad you have a cracked head .. if the water comes out of rad like a little mushroom or overflows from the rad your heads fine
(you will get wet because the water will go onto the fan so be careful becase it will be hot )
best bet is get a friend to rev from inside cab and you stand back and watch


you will be able to tell the difference .

if you go omfg then it's fubard
if you have to question if what it did was a BIG or small mushroom of water then it won't be


hope this helps

 

[wobbly]

As he says, but my suggestion is YOU rev the engine, and your mate stands in front of the rad......

 

[Adrian North]

Geordie-boy, I must say that sounds like a good saturdays entertainment - better than watching Big brother or whatever other cr*p is on - Will look into doing that test thanks. Maybe I can get some of the local chavs to take a look for me - goodness knows they need a bath

Am I right in thinking the internal cracks between the combustion chamber and water jacket you are talking about are in the head rather than the engine block itself? - sorry if that is a dumb question.

Adrian

 

[Adrian North]

Geordie-boy,

I did the test you suggested after taking the beast on a 50 mile round trip so I presume she was warm. When I took off the radiator cap the water was up to the brim which I presume is normal as the water had expanded. The wife then rev'd her to about 4000 rpm and water came out but the 'mushroom' was only about 6-7cm high - would that be a small mushroom? After the initial gush there was water coming out as we continued reving but it looked like it was being vibrated out if that makes sense.

After removing the cap and just before reving the water in the radiator did sound a little bit like Alka-seltzer but not for long.

Your comments would be most appreciated at this stage as I am more confused than ever.

Thanks for the help so far.

Adrian

 

[LandCruiser1978]

Geordie-boy,

but the 'mushroom' was only about 6-7cm high - would that be a small mushroom?


Adrian

Defo not an OMFG mushroom the kind im talking about will hit the bonnet or bloody close

I'd be looking at thermostat , blocked rad etc ,
I know you say it's NEW but was it a decent direct replacement ? or a cheap copy .
I'd fit a tripple core rad , new thermostat , and if it's an auto a transmission cooler .

 

[LandCruiser1978]

Am I right in thinking the internal cracks between the combustion chamber and water jacket you are talking about are in the head rather than the engine block itself? - sorry if that is a dumb question.

Adrian

yes somwhere in the head between combustion and water jacket , more likely between water and an exhasut port

 

[Adrian North]

Geordie-bot - many thanks for your replies to my stupid question - it is really appreciated. What I need to do now is go and think about what to do - well that and ask the financial advisor (i.e. the wife ) about how much money we have - the (new radiator) I have is from Roughtrax - would the one you mentioned be a genuine Toyota part? Also where/what is an automatic gearbox cooler? Sorry that is another dumb question but is you are ever in this neck of the woods please drop in and I'll buy you a pint (or two )

Adrian