Rear diff lock actuator problems

[Norty]

Hi everyone I have owned my 80 series for 3 years now using it as a daily and for green landing. Recently I have had a problem with the rear locker not engaging. The centre and front do. The actuator housing shows no signs of corrosion, so after a bit of research I took off the motor cover and found the magnets inside to be loose. Everything else was good with no corrosion. I have glued them back on as pairs checking polarity with a Barr magnet. Result diff still doesn't engage and now it seems the motor isn't even engaging. Is there a right way for the motor to be put back in or anything else to know before I pull the whole actuator off to check. Bit confused. Any advice/help from people who have done this world be great.
Ed.

 

[Chris]

Ed, welcome at last. Where've you been for three years? You've missed all the fun. TBH it sounds pretty much like you know what you're doing. Glueing the magnets back in has been very successful in many cases. Generally the problem is that the rot completely and have to be replaced. People largely live in hope of it just being the magnets but end up removing the whole assembly with a hammer because it's beyond salvation.

So this is a strange one. We have to presume that you have put the magnets in correctly but at the moment that does sound like the most obvious issue. I think there is a magnet gluing thread on here already but simply can't remember what it's called. Someone will be along soon.

 

[Norty]

Hi Chris thanks for the reply. I found a post showing the magnets and how they should go in relative to their polarity. I was just wondering if there is anything specific to reinstalling the motor i.e. fully wound in etc which might affect things. The motor is in very good condition with no corrosion at all. The actuator was making loud whirring noises before I took the cover off so I am not sure if this was due to the loose magnets or the motor drive jamming/disconnecting from the cog drive it connects to. Looking for advice at this stage to check I am not doing anything stupid before I delve further as I was hoping it was going to be an easy fix, considering that there doesn't seem to be any corrosion.
Ed.

 

[Andy]

There is info on IH8mud about this, cant find it at the moment but when I did mine, the shaft has to be in a certain position etc to get it to work right, it took me ages with a 12v supply to different terminals on the motor whilst on the bench, until I got it moving the right distance in the right direction at the right time
Ill have a look later for the info I found, it had pics to go with it!

Andy

 

[Andy]

Try this link for some info


http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rear-e-locker-actuator-rebuild-pics.95649/#post-5324688

Andy

 

[Mblinko]

I did the magnets on both lockers. The rear was fine (for a while) but when on the car the front one never worked. It worked on the bench. After some investigation I found it was running backwards as despite my apparent care, Inhad put magnets back on backwards. I established this by robbing the housing off my old rear one and putting it on the front one. Bingo, it worked fine on the car. Any ways while both worked fine following repair, they both did give up the ghost eventually (sticking on or off) and are replaced with new.

 

[Norty]

Andy thanks for the links. It seems when I pulled the motor out I have caused the gears to be out of line or unclocked. Is it now a matter of turning the motor shaft gear to line it up again and checking continuity at the plug or will I have to take the whole locker apart to set the clocking correctly.
Cheers Ed.

 

[Andy]

If I remember correctly it is a bit of a faff, def locker out again