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remote oil cooler

geo-smc

Active Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2010
Messages
53
How many here have fitted a remote oil cooler on their automatic boxes..
 
A few people one here have done that mod.

I replaced the original radiator 2 years ago, when it was it was approx 13yrs old and before it potentially failed. If the new radiator lasts half as long, I'll be happy.

Thinking about this, I would imagine that the quality of the (anti-corrosive) coolant will probably have a lot to do with the early failures?
 
ive fitted one - but inline after the factory bottom of rad cooler, for extra cooling of the auto-fluid
i replaced RAD when it was 9yrs old, nothing wrong with it, but just to be sure and have always used toyota red coolant since
 
Mine was done by a previous owner after the rad failed.
 
I thought that if i removed it from the radiator there was no chance of any problems with oil and water mixing.
 
I had one fitted on the 90 at West Coast for that reason.
 
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Is this only a problem with auto's ?

Mines a 1998 swb 90 manual , 90k on the clock and everything under the bonnet looks very tidy . It's going Toyota for a full service very soon but by the sounds of it most only learn of this problem AFTER the damage is done .
 
I'm about to fit a 30 row unit but might add it inline for extra cooling when I tow the camper trailer on soft sand and up some of the long steep hills.
 
Shayne

There is a specific problem with the auto, the ATF goes through a heat coil which is inside the bottom of the rad - the coil rots and transmission fluid is forced in with the greater pressure, this mixes with the atf, the resultant milkshake rots the clutches in the auto box.

Fitting an external cooler inline is a good idea if towing, but it won't prevent the coil rotting in the rad, so a new rad every, say, 10 years is a good precauition.

A replacement rad is about £110 but if you have a manual get a rad specific to the manual, it will have a deeper cooling area, the auto loses a bit as it has the ATF coil at the bottom. Many pattern rads are generic for both, they have the coil and a couple of plugs for it.

Cheers

Pete
 
I always thought that when people fitted an external ATF cooler, they bypassed the radiator completely?

Otherwise there's not much point, unless you want some serious ATF cooling.....and even then, you might as well bypass it and benefit from the added peace of mind of not worrying about the internal cooler in the rad failing.
 
i added mine inline, since if you dont you might get overcooling of the ATF - in winter for example, it will then take longer to get upto normal operating temperature
i dont think there is a right or wrong answer
i replaced the rad as a precaution when it was 9yrs old
 
Inline will give you extra cooling, its a very popular mod for folks towing caravans etc.

Instead of, will give you the peace of mind that the mod brings, but tbh a new rad is probably just as good an idea, also means you get to clean all the crud between the rad and aircon rad which contributes to overheating by redicing airflow.

Theres isnt a right answer, all the options show the owner is thinking about it, which can only be a good thing.
 
My answer is to keep the oil in one place and the water in another,that way there will be no mixing.
If the radiator goes then replace it with a manual one.
even changing a radiator, it could become faulty and mix the fluids,best to keep them separate..
 
I always thought that when people fitted an external ATF cooler, they bypassed the radiator completely?

Otherwise there's not much point, unless you want some serious ATF cooling.....and even then, you might as well bypass it and benefit from the added peace of mind of not worrying about the internal cooler in the rad failing.

This is what i done ,,i bypassed the radiator,fitted a separate cooler.
 
I always thought that when people fitted an external ATF cooler, they bypassed the radiator completely?

Otherwise there's not much point, unless you want some serious ATF cooling.....and even then, you might as well bypass it and benefit from the added peace of mind of not worrying about the internal cooler in the rad failing.
.
Exactly my thoughts also.

Whats the point in leaving in the suspect part, when your putting in a known good part.
The whole system is still only as reliable as the suspect part.
The old. built in ATF cooler.
No way would I leave the original cooler in-line, just asking for trouble in my humble opinion.

Gra.
 
.
Exactly my thoughts also.

Whats the point in leaving in the suspect part, when your putting in a known good part.
The whole system is still only as reliable as the suspect part.
The old. built in ATF cooler.
No way would I leave the original cooler in-line, just asking for trouble in my humble opinion.

Gra.

unless.. you also have a new rad as well ?
 
Just thinking, if you fit an external ATF cooler by-passing the one in the rad and a leak later occurred between the old ATF cooler in the rad and the rad water, would the water then leak out via the old ATF cooler or could you avoid that by linking inlet/outlet of old ATF cooler? :think:
 
Just thinking, if you fit an external ATF cooler by-passing the one in the rad and a leak later occurred between the old ATF cooler in the rad and the rad water, would the water then leak out via the old ATF cooler or could you avoid that by linking inlet/outlet of old ATF cooler? :think:
Thats what i done,fitted a length of pipe to cap the ends.
 
The generic rads, which include the atf coil, come with a bung for each inlet/outlet.

Its not a good long term design, but do any manufacturer actually build vehicles that will be fault free for this length of time? I bought a bumper to fit to my parents car, its got polystyrene inside - but polystyrene crumbles with age!

Pete
 
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