Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them

Replacing tie rod ends

No this is Helen's truck Pete it has a 2" lift but i find roughtrax monroe suspension rather soft . Fine for a tarmac only truck and r/t drop links are supposed to be a little stronger than standard so they will do .
 
Last edited:
Just for another reference, I use this type of puller. Saves having to belt the living snot out of the steering knuckle..
Oh, and it doesn't destroy the rubber boot either. Just need to snug it into position being careful not to pinch the rubber. uploadfromtaptalk1460811026698.jpguploadfromtaptalk1460811045043.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I like the look of that one. :clap:

Its got to be better than the other 2 types, pictured on this thread, which I've not had much luck with. :icon-smile:
 
The heads up is to order now before you need one , i paid about 22 quid in halfrauds rather than waste an hour in traffic to get to machine mart and pay about 7 quid :icon-rolleyes:
 
Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them
No real need for one anymore, as the 2 hammer method works faultlessly for me every time. One or 2 little knocks and they always drop out. :icon-biggrin:

But out of all the proper tools I've seen and used, that Kingchrome one above looks the best designed one. :clap:

I've got both of the other 2 and I'm not a fan of either, hence why I stopped using them. :shifty:
 
The shape and type used is often dictated by the location of the joints. On the 80, they're all easy to get at, so the hammer method is easier. I've worked on all number of cars in the past, and a variety of tools is handy for different situations.

I had a device like the one above, but the "feet" have to be at perfect right angles to work properly and they tend to bend after multiple uses. Then the legs just spread apart and they fall off.
 
While I have the tie rod ends off during the swivel hub re-build I noticed that the rubber boots have split. Can I replace just the rubber boots? or do I have to replace the whole end sub assembly?

PS. I have the scissor type tool shown in Clive's photo and I got all 3 off in less than 5 minutes. Its pretty much a wonder tool as far as I am concerned!
 
For the price of rod ends i'd swap them while its all apart just because its easy , cut the old boot off and have a look to see if the ball is pitted scratched or rusted .
 
David said:
Yes you can get them
https://www.roughtrax4x4.com/track-rod-end-rubber-dust-covers.html
Click to expand...

brilliant, thanks @David For the price of them i'll get a few extra and keep them as spares.

Shayne said:
For the price of rod ends i'd swap them while its all apart just because its easy , cut the old boot off and have a look to see if the ball is pitted scratched or rusted .
Click to expand...

They all feel pretty good @Shayne - the only one that feels a bit loose is the one that I haven't had to take off by the steering damper. I'll have a good look at them when i'm changing the boot and if they look pitted i'll swap out the whole rod end.
 
Hey Shayne did you consider just replacing the whole bottom arm at same time?
 
Ok then what’s the trick to replacing tie end boots? I’ve taken the old ones off, cleaned the ball joints, but can’t get the new rubbers while they are filled with grease - the grease all squirts out while I huff and swear. Do you put them on dry then somehow fill the boot with grease once they are on?

Also any tricks for getting then metals rings on?
 
Shayne said:
I can't get them out of the knuckle the taper has seized solid , searching for tools this is the only thing to present itself
View attachment 90962
Which doesn't really look very promising .

I'm about to take a grinder to it as its the only way i can see to get some heat in there but will i regret it ?

Any suggestions welcome .
Click to expand...

Hi Shayne
I was receently in the same situation. One arm camee out with barely a whimper, the other side took me about a week to get off. I used a hammer, plenty of lube, some heat and a ball joing splitter.
In the end, it came out with a soft touch......
 
Just to confirm, it’s probably not worth hitting it with a hammer as hard as you can in a fit of frustration and rage - it bends the thread meaning you can’t get the nut back on - don’t ask me how I know this....

... right that’ll be a new tie rod end please
 
I've had a couple of sets of the Roughtrax replacement boots now. They're a bit fiddly but got them on ok. I had genuine track ends where the boot had started to crack. I'd rather rescue a genuine one in good condition than replace it with a brand new copy part. Of course I'd rather have new OEM ones, but I'm running out of kidneys.
 
Yeah I had hoped to be able to repair the damage by filing down the end of the thread like you would if you were using threaded bar. It worked quite well and I got the nuts started then used the nut to slowly open out the thread. The problem is you need to hold the ball joint shaft whilst doing this otherwise the ball just turns in the socket of the tie end rod, which is ok on the bench but as soon as you put it into the steering arm you can’t grip the shaft and nut just turns the ball joint around. If you see what I mean.

I’d like to get some new genuine ones but they are pretty expensive and this build is costing us a small fortune so may have to go aftermarket on these. Roughtrax do a set of all 4 for £60 by NPS so might put them on. It is after all only a ball joint.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

stuzbot
Chassis Rust Removal -- Recommended Tools for Awkward Areas?
2
Replies
35
Views
1K
thelal
thelal
Mick W
Engine rebuild update and warning to others regarding second hand parts
Replies
2
Views
212
Tractionman
T
AndrewCorser
ABS - LC(HDJ)80 Dec92 - spares?
Replies
1
Views
236
Jon Wildsmith
Jon Wildsmith
S
Battery died, tried to jump start, ended up with some gremlins
Replies
1
Views
291
karl2000
K
K
1996 Lift gate won't unlock with key, remote, or pull post
Replies
2
Views
379
Dave2000
D
Back
Top