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Thoughts on adding a locker.

warrenpfo

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Jul 21, 2010
Messages
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As I write this I hope, finger crossed, all the bits for an axel rebuild have arrived with Mr Wilder. My current front axle does not have a locker in it being a Jap import but it does have weeping knuckles and hence is getting a rebuild.

Before I do this if I wanted to add a locker is my current thinking correct..

If i go the OEM route i will need to source a replacement axle housing, diff and wiring harness (maybe ecu)
If i go the ARB route its just a case of current diff out and locker in with nothing else to change. ( yes i know a compressor and some electrics would be required)

I am asking as I don't want to rebuild the current axle if down the line i am only going to have to do it again if i swap the axle housing over down the line.

Thanks
 
I would go for getting a complete OEM axle with good locker, and do a bench rebuild at your leisure, then swap it in when you're ready.

I suppose fitting an ARB air locker is not too bad a job, but it's a complete axle strip down just the same and the truck will be out of action all that time.

Ultimately, I would rather have the OEM lockers than ARBs, but I've never had ARBs so I shouldn't say that really. But they're not cheap at all, so I'd rather spend my cash on OEM.
 
Clive

If I rebuild my current axel and then get a complete "new" front locking axle can I go and swap all the bits i have rebuilt the current axle with across to the new one or are there some bits like drive shafts and diffs that are mated together?

It may be easier to get a whole new from axle but is it not cheaper just to get the housing and diff? Maybe Karl is best to answer this one as he would know
 
Hard to say Warren. If it's an on roader then why bother. If it's an off roader then you'd be starting with an odd model.

If you wanted a hard core overlander (??) then maybe swap the rear LSD for an airlocker. It's as much as you'd need. if you are laning in it or similar and you need full lockers I have to questions whether you should be on that lane. Rear ARB is the cheapest, most painless route with the highest benefit in my view. Forget the front. it's not worth the upgrade for a tarmac vehicle. A bar and winch would be better spend.

The 24v auto imports are probably some of the best 80's out there now. Finding one without all the corrosion, rotted arches and scabby chassis is getting tougher. Imports stand a fighting chance. Spending money on a relatively easy modification brings them close to UK spec. But without the baggage. LSDs work well if they are working.

Or buy a UK model and spend the money putting it straight. Right.
 
TBH I don't know what you need other than the casing, you'll need the locker actuator itself (and they're not cheap even second hand) so IMO a complete axle would be more cost effective. Truth is, Karl is the best source of proper information.
 
Thanks Chris

It will be an overlander and not a hard core 4x4 so point taken. I will rebuild the front diff i have and look for a bar to add the winch that i have. The rear LSD is working from what i can tell but will do some tests to get a definitive answer.

You are correct in thinking that she is a good model with limited rust if any to talk about.

Thank you
 
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I have run ran the autos and manuals Warren.

None of my serious off roading or green lanning has been done with an 80 with working lockers.Every time we have snow I go out playing. Same again never with working lockers. The last year I have only just had lockers in my trucks.

Personally. What you already have is a very capable bit of kit. With the centre diff lock in and the limited slip rear diff I doubt you will come unstuck for what you are going to use it for.I used an import i had off road a few times and it really surprised me just how well it went.That said,if it goes back to SA I don't have any experience with driving on sand. I expect it will be similar to snow but someone may give you a better answer than me regarding that.

I can PM you some prices if you like but I would think the money would be better spent else where
 
Thanks Karl

I am just thinking ahead as when back in SA parts are harder to come by and very expensive so whilst here why not try to think it all through. I guess Chris is right and my cash is best used else where or for holidays.

thanks guys
 
I've got twin Eaton Harrop ELockers; they work very well. I pulled the diff apart, took it to a workshop and they installed it. I believe these are the same as the OEM ones for many of the cruisers?

Aaron
 
Warren
I fitted OEM lockers to my EFI 80 Oz model in SA years ago. You don't need to replace the housing but you do need to drill some additional holes and some other bodging. Actually I had my cruiser specialist local workshop do the fitting :)
The 80 I had was LSD rear, but in the really rough stuff it was not really that much good. To test just jack up one wheel and try and turn it in neutral, if the LSD works it wont turn. I fitted the front locker first after doing Baboons pass without lockers, thinking the LSD and front would be enough, but a rear locker became available and so I went the full hog. Toys for boys syndrome really. But I did use the rear quite a lot when out playing with the guys. The front makes steering very difficult and so not used very much at all, only in a local off road competition (Landies v Toyotas) which was pretty tricky at times and on some serious rock and donga climbing trails. I only used the rear locker once when overlanding and that was on a fairly deep (over the bonnet) water crossing when alone and not sure what was underfoot. Normally you avoid any risky bits when overlanding because of the heavy load and the risk of spoiling your trip.
You will need a control circuit or the OEM ECU.
I have some documentation if you send me your email to: [email protected]
My advice would be locker in the rear only if you really feel the need but not bother with the front, as mentioned earlier a winch is a better investment. Most of the 80's in SA did not have axle lockers nor have retrofits.
 
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