1st August
We made it to Sarajevo!
We decided to check out the accommodation we skipped in the previous night and headed into the hills; roads getting so much steeper and smaller that finally we couldn’t make a turn! Using our walkie talkies, we reversed with trailer down a z-shaped road, got ourselves out of the hills and decided to look for a hotel with parking (the campsite cost more than the cheapest hotel!).
But to do that we needed internet, so we stopped at a small kiosk and 20 marks (£9) later we were online. We found 3 possible options and started the car ..... click click click ..... it didn’t start. This was the starter motor we just replaced! Eek! A quick google and a few whacks with a hammer and we were off again, phew. Three hotels later and we found one with large vehicle parking ... it wasn’t in the prettiest of areas (industrial estate) but was next to a tram stop. This is one of the downsides of towing a trailer, and we have learned this usually makes campsites a better option but often they are not close to main towns.
Sarajevo was a massive surprise to us, a tram into town, a river running through it (Melbourne style!) ... the modernish buildings gave way to Austro-Hungarian style which switched quickly to Ottoman in the old town. We loved the vibe of the old town, like a bazaar with shops and restaurants and people meandering. It’s a great place for settling in, enjoying a Burek and people watching. We tried some other Bosnian foods, stuffed peppers and stuffed vines leaves, Bosnian coffee (nice and strong!), local craft beer and even found a great coffee place for a nice cold brew and cortado. Then we found the Market Hall, where we succumbed to the deliciousness of cured smoked meats. And of course, we had to try the local Rakija! Some interesting flavours, such as walnut and quince, but the berry flavours were still the best.
There is so much history here and we only managed to delve into a bit

The Latin Bridge, right where Franz Ferdinands was assassinated which started WW1

The yellow bastion (c.early 1800s) with amazing views over Sarajevo, where a cannon sound still marks the end of fasting each day during ramadan

Museum of Crimes against Humanity and Genicide, an exposition revealing the atrocities committed during the Serbian-Bosnian war

mortar damage that is coloured in with red resin and renamed the Roses of Sarajevo

The second largest cemetery in Europe where most of the graves are dated between 1992 and 1995

The marker where East meets West (Grant thought we were looking for a market! )

The Tunnel linking free Bosnia to the besieged city of Sarajevo

the many many buildings with bullet holes still showing.
Mainly due to the parking situation, we only ended up staying a day and a half, but Sarajevo is definitely a place we want to come back to and explore some more.
Backing down the hills of Sarajevo as we nearly got ourselves stuck! The walkie talkies have come in very handy.

Views of Sarajevo from the hills

Sarajevo from the Yellow Bastion
Eeek! The dreaded click and no start ... but a few whacks with a hammer and we were good to go again

Waiting near our hotel for the parking to free up, next to abandoned buildings full of bullet holes and a waste ground for fly tipping - we have noticed so much rubbish left around all of Bosnia, which is a bit disappointing but hopefully they are working to improve this, there are lots of bins in the lay-bys and signs asking not to litter.

Sarah in Sarajevo!

Modern twist

Trams in the old town

The Eternal Flame honouring the victims of WW2

The Latin Bridge, site of Franz Ferdinand’s assassination which led to the beginning of WW1

So many bullet holes from the most recent war, only 20ish years ago Some are kept in remembrance but it’s also a city rebuilding itself slowly

Market hall

Austro Hungarian influence

Church in Sarajevo

Another beautiful building on the river

Where East meets West, Sarajevo Meeting of Cultures (the marker, not the market!)

Gasi Husrev-beg mosque
Sebilj, fountain in the old town square
