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Turbo repair options?

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apc01

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After increasing turbo noise I have determined that the cause is the turbo blades touching the turbo housing, presumably due to worn bearings.


What would be the most inexpensive and reliable way of fixing the turbo?


I am assuming that an exchange reconditioned unit or having mine reconditioned is an option.


I would appreciate recommendations for trusted turbo companies.


Thanks very much.
 
Not sure about the 100 series but when i thought i may have problems with my 90 turbo i looked at the options and decided to exchange for a guaranteed recon was reasonably priced and offered the best peace of mind . I haven't blown it yet though but i probably will when i add a boost controller safe in the knowledge that replacing it won't cause bankruptcy .
 
Shayne said:
Not sure about the 100 series but when i thought i may have problems with my 90 turbo i looked at the options and decided to exchange for a guaranteed recon was reasonably priced and offered the best peace of mind . I haven't blown it yet though but i probably will when i add a boost controller safe in the knowledge that replacing it won't cause bankruptcy .
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The issue is though if it does blow it could cause further damage, especially if it loses oil. My car - owned from new in 1998 - has done 114K miles, so if a reconditioned turbo will give me the same again it is a good investment.
 
Yes of course i am hoping no such thing will happen and i have read a lot about others who have upped the boost considerably on my engine with no ill effects . Mines a 1998 truck with similar miles so i accept i'm taking a risk . What do you think might be the cause of your turbo problems which are not as far as i'm aware common . Do you tow a lot ?
 
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Shayne said:
Yes of course i am hoping no such thing will happen and i have read a lot about others who have upped the boost considerably on my engine with no ill effects . Mines a 1998 truck with similar miles so i accept i'm taking a risk . What do you think might be the cause of your turbo problems which are not as far as i'm aware common . Do you tow a lot ?
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I dont tow at all. Also I have owned the Land Cruiser myself from new and always looked after it, service etc.

The turbo bearings are on the way out so must be an oil issue. In retrospect it would probably be best to change the oil every 3000 miles instead of the 6000 that I have been doing.

Also I recently discovered that it is recommended to allow the engine to idle for 3 minutes before switching it off - otherwise the turbo bearings run dry because the turbo is still spinning - I never did that so maybe that is why. I will do that in future.
 
You can invest in a turbo timer as well which will do the controlled spin down and lube for you. Good luck with it all
 
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Insufficient turbo spool down and cool down time can kill a turbo's bearings as sure as infrequent oil changes. For normal running, letting the engine idle for 15-20secs or so is adequate to give the turbine time to slow to normal idle speed. It's when you've been on a longish run pulling high boost and EGT's or driving at high speed that more time is required for the whole turbo unit to cool down, hence the longer idle times. The turbine will still spool down quickly but switching off prematurely when the turbo is still stinking hot means the oil in the turbo bearings gets cooked. The owner's manual for the 80 series suggests 2 min cool down after towing or 'long climbs'.

If you're certain that the noise you're getting is the turbine blades touching the housing I would get the turbo changed PDQ as it could be on the verge of catastrophic failure which will almost certainly send shrapnel through the engine with expensive results.JMO

Here's what you don't want to happen.....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wyt-7x6_JNE
 
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I've never met a single person who adheres to the spool down rule , sometimes its just luck or lack thereof i always tell myself when i have that kind of luck that somebody had to get the one that was put together by a seriously hungover employee first thing in the morning .
 
Luck or lack of it, why push it? Cool/spooldown is just good practise, probably why it's suggested by just about every manufacturer who sell vehicles with turbochargers, not to mention those who repair them.
 
of course we all should just saying few do and turbo failure in 4x4's is rare in my experience .
 
Checkout maxspeedingrods on ebay, Chinese company with a warehouse in Southampton.

They sell replacement turbo's, I fitted one on my old LJ78 and it was a decent unit.

Turbo timer is a good idea if you're concerned about spooling down - as Shayne says, no-one does it properly, so a timer means you dont have to worry about it.

Pete
 
apc01 said:
The issue is though if it does blow it could cause further damage, especially if it loses oil. My car - owned from new in 1998 - has done 114K miles, so if a reconditioned turbo will give me the same again it is a good investment.
Click to expand...

As your its only owner i wonder if where you live or work has anything to do with it ? I don't need to spool down when i arrive home because it takes the best part of a minute to get parked up so the turbo is doing nothing when i turn off the ignition .
 
Shayne said:
As your its only owner i wonder if where you live or work has anything to do with it ? I don't need to spool down when i arrive home because it takes the best part of a minute to get parked up so the turbo is doing nothing when i turn off the ignition .
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Ever since I have owned the vehicle I have had houses where I can pull up on the drive and switch off, which is more or less what I did. For trips out of course it always involved parking, so yes, the turbo would spool down.

I have always driven it hard but not on the limits and not doing anything likely to cause damage - I have always looked after the car and after owning it for nearly 17 years it still runs flawlessly - no smoke, uses no oil to speak of, runs great.
 
Gary Stockton said:
You can invest in a turbo timer as well which will do the controlled spin down and lube for you. Good luck with it all
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice Gary - worth looking in to at the same time as exchanging the turbo.
 
I would still appreciate any recommendations for turbo repair/exchange/reconditioning businesses.

Only quote so far is £480 + VAT for completely rebuilt unit from Midland Turbo.
 
Something that may be worthwhile looking at is a EGT Gauge. I had a digital unit Fitted post turbo on a Hzj105 Landcruiser i had. The Turbo was a TD05 and it had water cooling along with the oil cooling. I always used to make sure the EGT gauge was reading below 150 DEG C before i turned the motor off. I didn't have a turbo timer.

With regard to changing the oil i used to change mine every 5000 klms as they 1hz was a very dirty motor where as the 1HDFTE was a very clean burning motor if it was correctly tuned. Another idea that also may help your oil stay cleaner for longer is to deactivate the EGR so it doesn't function as it should. There are ways to do it without it being visible.:icon-wink::icon-wink:
 
I have been driving my grey 100 from new in 2001. 425.000 km with oil change every 15.000 km! I know that I dont do everything by the book in this world, but I was told from the start about the spool down time needed for the turbo. I have always waited before cutting the engine, as I have always waited after startup before driving. Can be luck -but so far I have never had any turbo issues and there is not a sound or whistle at all to hear still......
 
Is the turbo wind down necessary after normal pottering around or only after some fast driving?
 
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