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What's the most likely cause.....

Garfieldus

Garfieldus

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Nov 18, 2010
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......of no power at the rear diff lock?

Mine stopped working a few weeks ago and I assumed it would need the usual removal and clean up and hopefully get it working again.

Got at it today and wanted to make sure there is power to it before taking it off so....

took off the stone guard, disconnected the power connector and put a (working :)) test lamp on pins 2 and 3 (loom side). Turned on ignition, moved to low range (centre lock and ABS lights on), turned locker switch to rear position but the test lamp didn't light.

So, no power seems to be the cause.

30amp DIFF fuse is ok (front locker works and engages).

Any advice on where to start looking?
 
Well its electrical, so start at the switch on the dash and work your way down?
 
Garfieldus said:
......of no power at the rear diff lock?

Mine stopped working a few weeks ago and I assumed it would need the usual removal and clean up and hopefully get it working again.

Got at it today and wanted to make sure there is power to it before taking it off so....

took off the stone guard, disconnected the power connector and put a (working :)) test lamp on pins 2 and 3 (loom side). Turned on ignition, moved to low range (centre lock and ABS lights on), turned locker switch to rear position but the test lamp didn't light.

So, no power seems to be the cause.

30amp DIFF fuse is ok (front locker works and engages).

Any advice on where to start looking?
Click to expand...
You won't get power on those pins with it unplugged. There is a locked/unlocked position sensor in the actuator and the difflock ECU won't power the motor unless it can detect the opposite position to the one it should move to. I forget which pin numbers are for that sensor but you should be able to work it out from the wiring diagram.
 
Jon Wildsmith said:
You won't get power on those pins with it unplugged. There is a locked/unlocked position sensor in the actuator and the difflock ECU won't power the motor unless it can detect the opposite position to the one it should move to. I forget which pin numbers are for that sensor but you should be able to work it out from the wiring diagram.
Click to expand...


Excellent, that's the kind of knowledgeable advice that makes it worth asking.

Thanks Jon.

I reckon I can work it out from this....

Diff-Lock-Terminal-Explaina.jpg
 
I jumpered pins 4 and 5 and got the test lamp lighting, so I have power down there. Now to take the actuator off and see if it can be fixed.

@Jon Wildsmith - thanks once again for your help :thumbup:
 
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Check the magnets in the motor, might of fallen off. Had to glue mine back in. If so just make sure go back in the right place.
 
It was some epoxy stuff, motor repair place round the corner from work had it. I reckon a bit of a araldite will do the same job tbh, looked similar.
 
Jerseyful Mazes the top two bolts on the actuator housing are tight. Corroded in place. Everything came off fairly easy. Actuator looks in reasonable condition, body not corroded much, but those two top bolts ain't budging :(

The heads are only 10mm and not a lot of space to get at them.

Any advice? I've already tried heat!!
 
If you mean by "heat" you mean oxy/propane heat and that hasn't done the trick I would revert to prayer. I know you can't put a lot of pressure on these little bolts so I would go the repeated heat route.
If anyone has another suggestion I would like to know as I have the same problem with my 100 and just looking at the job makes me defer it to another day.,

Andy
 
Universal spanner? (Hammer and chisel)
When I repaired mine one of the bolts rounded off, a good hit had it moving. I replaced them with 12mm head bolts.
 
I don't know why but those bolts are made from very soft material, maybe to stop them being done up too tight? Can you get an undersized spanner hammered on? Don't think there's room for Erwins in there IIRC. If you really can't get them off in situ you can always drop the diff and get a bit more access that way ... not as big a job as you might think on a full floater axle.
 
AndycruiserguyLomas said:
If you mean by "heat" you mean oxy/propane heat and that hasn't done the trick I would revert to prayer. I know you can't put a lot of pressure on these little bolts so I would go the repeated heat route.
If anyone has another suggestion I would like to know as I have the same problem with my 100 and just looking at the job makes me defer it to another day.,

Andy
Click to expand...

I'm of the same mind Andy. Might farm this job out to the garage next door to work (who conveniently are a Toyota service agent amongst other things).
 
I ended up giving it to my mechanic to get the bolts undone. I didn't want to **** anything up!!

He welded a non metric six sided socket (not sure what size but obviously smaller than 10mm) at just the right angle to a cold chisel to allow it to be positioned to give maximum movement upwards. Then dropped the axle as much as possible (without removing anything) using a bottle jack and got them out. He replaced them with 13mm headed bolts and now I'll get the actuator out and try to fix it.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions.
 
Knucklehead said:
Can highly recommend these:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Irwin-Bolt-...1389713227&sr=8-1&keywords=irwin+bolt+remover

Have never let me down including getting my rounded, rusted solid rear diff lock bolts out.

I'd be broke by now if had to pay mechanics to pull every rusted stubborn bolt I've come up against without these sockets.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the info, I may need to pick some of these up myself. I don't need them now, but it's better to have and not need, right?
 
They look useful, will order some too!

Thought id check my my actuator at the weekend & expected aggro with the bolts after reading various threads here.

so cleaned up the heads, decent ring spanner & bingo.... All 4 undid , actuator all good & not falling apart, very little corrosion.
will refit with new 13mm headed bolts

just lucky I suppose

andy
 
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