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Who is doing what maintenance today?
- Thread starter warrenpfo
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Tractionman
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Never a truer word spoken TP.
Summed up perfectly !
Summed up perfectly !
Julian T
Well-Known Member
So some time back my engine developed a very slight misfire, only really noticeable at idle, up and running not noticeable.
Nonetheless I parked her up and left her to stand while I did other things with my life.
So long story short I did a compression test and found no.4 piston to have low compression, so head off, sump off and remove piston to find both compression rings broken.
so question is, can the piston be reused or do I need to replace it, cylinder has one score mark that may come out with a honing tool???
Otherwise it's off to bored oversize I assume.
Suggestions please chaps, where does a guy go from here?
Pics for att.
Nonetheless I parked her up and left her to stand while I did other things with my life.
So long story short I did a compression test and found no.4 piston to have low compression, so head off, sump off and remove piston to find both compression rings broken.
so question is, can the piston be reused or do I need to replace it, cylinder has one score mark that may come out with a honing tool???
Otherwise it's off to bored oversize I assume.
Suggestions please chaps, where does a guy go from here?
Pics for att.
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Towpack
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My understanding of honing is that is doesn't actually enlarge the bore to any degree. It's usually used as a glaze busting procedure or to help bed in new rings so any score marks would have to be slight for honing to remove them. If the piston isn't visibly damaged, measure it to see if it still falls within the specs.
These are the specs for the 1HD-FT which I am assuming is the engine you have.....
These are the specs for the 1HD-FT which I am assuming is the engine you have.....
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It all depends on your relationship with the car. If it's your pride and joy, kept spotlessly clean, serviced to within an inch of its life and only used on dry Sundays you may want to spend a lot of money re-boring the block, fitting new pistons, valves, a new water pump . . . etc . . etc.
However, if it's a bit of a hack that just gets used then hone the bore, clean the piston thoroughly and examine the ring lands - if they are worn wider than normal, have chipping or distortion replace the piston or else new rings won't last. If it's still good. fit new rings, put it back together and use it.
If it fails again, you haven't spent a fortune on it so do the more thorough job and try again.
These motors (you didn't say which) are tough and forgiving (usually).
It's all up to you.
Bob.
However, if it's a bit of a hack that just gets used then hone the bore, clean the piston thoroughly and examine the ring lands - if they are worn wider than normal, have chipping or distortion replace the piston or else new rings won't last. If it's still good. fit new rings, put it back together and use it.
If it fails again, you haven't spent a fortune on it so do the more thorough job and try again.
These motors (you didn't say which) are tough and forgiving (usually).
It's all up to you.
Bob.
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Today I spent FIVE HOURS getting one bolt out 
.
Not a Landcruiser, or even a Toyota (I have other rusty cars
) this one was my 2003 Ford Focus Estate that I have had from new. I had a broken front spring so it was time for new McPherson Struts, springs & ARB Drop Links
On the Focus, the leg of the strut is held in a clamp which is integral with the steering knuckle. There is a single bolt clamping the two parts together.
The bolt is an M12 x 1.75mm pitch, so you would expect it to have a 19mm head . . . NO, it's got a 14mm flanged head
.
It was all rusted together and despite penetrating oil and heat my Milwaukee rattle gun ate it.
I have a set of those sockets that have a tapered, spiral, reverse thread that grip worn nuts/bolts. They are very good, usually, but not this time.
What to do . . I took a piece of 19mm hex mild steel bar and turned up a nut. I then welded it to the stump of the bolt head. It wasn't easy getting a penetrating MIG weld on a horizontal bolt and it didn't last. I must have cleaned and welded it five times before I finished up with a much larger smooth stump.
When at first you don't succeed . . . . I went back to the steel off-cuts box and found a piece of 1" hex bar, bored a 19.5mm hole in it and parted-off a 15mm length.
This was welded on, with a lot of weld trapped in the longer sleeve created by the wide nut.
Some MAP gas applied to the assembly and the rattle gun did its stuff.
Result
It ain't pretty - but it worked
.
The bolt from the other side came out after a struggle but surrendered before the welder was necessary.
The replacement bolt is a conventional M12 with a plain shank and a 19mm head - it will outlive the car.
Tomorrow's challenge . . . . Getting the strut leg out of the steering knuckle.
Bob.
.Not a Landcruiser, or even a Toyota (I have other rusty cars
) this one was my 2003 Ford Focus Estate that I have had from new. I had a broken front spring so it was time for new McPherson Struts, springs & ARB Drop LinksOn the Focus, the leg of the strut is held in a clamp which is integral with the steering knuckle. There is a single bolt clamping the two parts together.
The bolt is an M12 x 1.75mm pitch, so you would expect it to have a 19mm head . . . NO, it's got a 14mm flanged head
.It was all rusted together and despite penetrating oil and heat my Milwaukee rattle gun ate it.
I have a set of those sockets that have a tapered, spiral, reverse thread that grip worn nuts/bolts. They are very good, usually, but not this time.
What to do . . I took a piece of 19mm hex mild steel bar and turned up a nut. I then welded it to the stump of the bolt head. It wasn't easy getting a penetrating MIG weld on a horizontal bolt and it didn't last. I must have cleaned and welded it five times before I finished up with a much larger smooth stump
.When at first you don't succeed . . . . I went back to the steel off-cuts box and found a piece of 1" hex bar, bored a 19.5mm hole in it and parted-off a 15mm length.
This was welded on, with a lot of weld trapped in the longer sleeve created by the wide nut.
Some MAP gas applied to the assembly and the rattle gun did its stuff.
Result
It ain't pretty - but it worked
.The bolt from the other side came out after a struggle but surrendered before the welder was necessary.
The replacement bolt is a conventional M12 with a plain shank and a 19mm head - it will outlive the car.
Tomorrow's challenge . . . . Getting the strut leg out of the steering knuckle.
Bob.
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Well done Bob. I had a caliper bleed nipple shear off level with the surface of the caliper and had to weld a bolt on. I think the extreme heat helped. It was a 1959 racing caliper so irreplaceable. Bit of a relief.
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West side of Edinburgh, in the Forth valley. I can see the strobes on the 'Forth Road Bridge' and 'The Queensferry Crossing' from the house. So yes, all my vehicles rust.
The Focus is used by my daughters when their cars are off the road or kids need to go in different directions. One lives in South Queensferry, the other in Bo'Ness - both on the coast !
We have a lot of road salt up here, that's the real killer.
Bob.
The Focus is used by my daughters when their cars are off the road or kids need to go in different directions. One lives in South Queensferry, the other in Bo'Ness - both on the coast !
We have a lot of road salt up here, that's the real killer.
Bob.
My 120 yesterday decided to slip its rear door. I think it had been hitting the catch awkwardly since I had it, but yesterday there was a distinctive whack against it.
A trip to B&Q later, £5(!) on a bag of 12mm washers, the door now shuts like new. I’ve no strong friends, so I’m using breeze blocks from our extension and the strongest friend I know to lift the door up a bit.
Im through upgrading the interior lights to LEDs as I think it’s a bit dim otherwise in the long evenings we will be getting. Waiting for the puddle and festoon lights to turn up and I’ll do them along with the blown switch gear bulbs.
Also decided to do something about me not being able to see my son in the back when it gets a bit dark. Found a rechargeable book light with a clamp on it from Amazon. Tried it yesterday and it’s great. The low setting is enough to see him and dim enough to not stop him sleeping.
A trip to B&Q later, £5(!) on a bag of 12mm washers, the door now shuts like new. I’ve no strong friends, so I’m using breeze blocks from our extension and the strongest friend I know to lift the door up a bit.
Im through upgrading the interior lights to LEDs as I think it’s a bit dim otherwise in the long evenings we will be getting. Waiting for the puddle and festoon lights to turn up and I’ll do them along with the blown switch gear bulbs.
Also decided to do something about me not being able to see my son in the back when it gets a bit dark. Found a rechargeable book light with a clamp on it from Amazon. Tried it yesterday and it’s great. The low setting is enough to see him and dim enough to not stop him sleeping.
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A quick job this morning on the 60’s 2H - replace the lift pump as the old one leaked when used and change the fuel filter.
Raining now but will soon be back out to drain and refill diff oil front and back ( making sure I can undo the oil in plug before taking out the oil out plug first - I learnt that the hard way! ) and top up the gearbox and transfer box oils. Then 9 nipples to be greased.
New vac pipes to and from alternator also going on.
Raining now but will soon be back out to drain and refill diff oil front and back ( making sure I can undo the oil in plug before taking out the oil out plug first - I learnt that the hard way! ) and top up the gearbox and transfer box oils. Then 9 nipples to be greased.
New vac pipes to and from alternator also going on.
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- Feb 2, 2013
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Sick of finding loose sockets and spanner’s in my box every time I open it I finally twigged an answer when the mrs asks me every time she gets a hello fresh delivery “surely you can do something with this” , meaning the padding in box .
Soaked with silicone spray and seems perfick , time will tell but it’s got to last longer than the original .
Soaked with silicone spray and seems perfick , time will tell but it’s got to last longer than the original .
Tractionman
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Agree, and some of that nonsense could involve dumping the whole set and buying new for the sake of a bit of thinking
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Save the planet , why buy one when you can buy 4 and bin 3 .
Must admit I never washed a tool box before but i was planning to tighten things up with some plasti dip rubberized paint . Might still do it yet but i think some boiling water definitely extended the life of the box plastic a bit .
Must admit I never washed a tool box before but i was planning to tighten things up with some plasti dip rubberized paint . Might still do it yet but i think some boiling water definitely extended the life of the box plastic a bit .
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Went to do a fluid check today and found I had no oil cap!! WTAF!! Luckily the 5VZ doesn't spit much out just a little vapour and very minor splashes. If it's been like that since the last service that's over 2500km! Still got an almost full oil level on the dipstick. Good for rustproofing I suppose.
No idea how that happened, possibly I am going mad and left it off after the service or it wasn't tightened properly.
Luckily the local parts store had a pattern Toyota one looks like it's a common one used from the 70s to the 00s on almost all Toyota and some Holden cars.
No idea how that happened, possibly I am going mad and left it off after the service or it wasn't tightened properly.
Luckily the local parts store had a pattern Toyota one looks like it's a common one used from the 70s to the 00s on almost all Toyota and some Holden cars.
