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Perhaps I should have got shot of mine a year ago before several k were spent. On the other hand, I use mine for occasional 3.5 ton towing. What else could I find that is reasonably sound, capable off road, reasonably comfortable and not loads of main dealer requirements for a few k?

Not many miles since MOT.

The tyres are a set of AT BF Goodrich on standard 16in. They are longish in the tooth but have worn evenly and no where near worn out. I use regularly but not many miles a year.

Thanks Dave, I will have a look. In truth I think it has crept up. Jumping from a modern precise car probably highlights!

I have recently noticed that the steering wheel seems to need quite a lot of movement to correct and similar left or right. Static test rocking steering results in a very small movements of front wheels with play almost non existent. Is there an obvious thing to look for? Thanks

There is an alternator fuse under the bonnet/hood as well.

The 80 series, even in diesel form, is an uneconomical beast for big annual miles and can be bettered for comfort by many. There are a band of loyal enthusiastic owners out there that keep them going and, as someone else has said, those vehicles do not come to market very often. Despite their...

I had an advisory on mine back in December, misting on a rear shock. I did explain it was most likely where I had sprayed a light film of oil about underneath . Also could not switch off during the test as the immobiliser had packed up.

Tbh I did not even realise my 24v had a diagnostic port until recently.

On a machine I have, breakdown of the internal wall of flexi pipes led to brakes binding. Too slow to notice cross axle braking difference. My 80 that does not do a lot of miles per annum and will pull right sometimes but seems to correct once used properly. I had assumed it was the left front...

One of my customers had his LR 90 rolled of his driveway. Thieves got in very easily but a simple hidden switch to the fuel solenoid made them abandon their quest. Time may have allowed them to start it but they obviously thought better of hanging around.

Thanks Dave, I have pulled it up tight but will check it again after some use. The bolt was a PITA to get out. It was so damned tight!

Thanks, useful for reference.

Can someone tell me how to get to the warning light bulbs when necessary. Thanks.

Some testers, I think, are nervous putting the 80s on the rolling roads. Most testers, unless they look it up, will not know the quirks of the 80 series. Now that can be good or bad!

What would be a ball park figure for the final job? Shame the Brazilians are left hookers.

Where would one start for contacts or adverts?

With a luck a final update. There is a charge fuse in the box behind the nearside battery. That also is linked with other warning lights. So now the charge was on but still no charge. Eventually found about the only company in South Essex that repairs starters and alternators. They ran a quick...

Caron the seat, as Andy has said, can be the little nylon end cap which carries the small dia cross shaft for the winding mech. It might be a case of pushing it back in place. Unfortunately if the the seat has be moved in that state the nylon cog might have stripped. You can buy replacement...

New 80 would see me out by some considerable margin I reckon, with only oil changes and a carport

New 80 would seem out by some considerable margin I reckon with only oil changes and a carport.

I have got under mine periodically with a knap sack sprayer lance with a mixture of diesel and hydraulic oil.

Dave not thought you as rude for one minute. Glad for advice from all on here.

Well Grimbo you were right, school boy error on my part. There is not a charge red light on the dash when I switch on. Now I am guessing this could be the bulb but the engine has been out recently and the alarm/immobiliser has been changed. How can I get to the dash bulbs? Incidentally is there...

Thanks

Better I look at the handbook and see where the light is. How does one access the dashboard lights?

OK thanks for the help Grimbo.

As an aside I am not sure the red light is even coming on with the key. There is definitely a red charge light plus the gauge?

Grimbo how would I ID the exciter wire? Would it be the thin wire? Where would that wire be powered from? Is the bulb going in line to prove the wire is live? Thank you for the reply.

Just an update, after much f'ing and j'effing I have changed the alternator for a second hand one. Still no charge. Dave I note you say the plug can fail. It looked OK? How could I check for a problem? I assume one wire will be switched when the key is turned on? Are there any fuses that might...

Could always put in a bid for Daisy Duke, you never know!

Diesel surely will have to be available for quite a few years to come? I do think the 80 series value will plateau out in real terms. The only real top money for classic that move into real age is for the really rare and/or beautiful. Some owners in the classic truck and car world have noted...

Diesel surely will have to be available for quite a few years to come? I do think the 80 series value will plateau out in real terms. The only real top money for classic that move into real age is for the really rare and/or beautiful. Some owners in the classic truck and car world have noted...

Is the switch an easy job for a non electrical dabbler? It would be good to shunt a trailer in low range without axle wind up.

Do the 80 series have some form of load valve on the rear brakes? Just wondering as a cousin of mine had a Patrol he fitted with extra air booster springs. That changed the axle to body height and meant that on long descents the front brakes were doing all the work.

Happened on my 80 towing last year. Quite disconcerting, it was a seized caliper causing brake fluid to boil. It looks like you have ruled out that possibility.

Find a reasonable hill on dry tarmac. Whilst going up hill at a reasonable speed dip the clutch and let is back in gently at the same time as booting the accelerator. I wonder if the original slippage was wheel spin?

As mine is the original (I am fairly certain) I think I will bite the bullet and buy a new one. I have seen the new Denso 80amp for just under £200.

Have you asked around your local area for someone with a good rep for general underbody repairs. I realise that, for some reason, some garage service businesses are reluctant to get involved with these older vehicles.

Learnt something there. I did not know about the filter on the fuel pick up.

Quick question when some of you have time. Alternator appears to be defunct on my 24v 4.2. Do any have recommendations for a replacement and the necessary output. I see there are some big variations in £ out there. Thanks and happy festive season to all. Peter

Looks like a lot of vehicle for the money judging by prices asked for some.

If it were linked with the heater system then I would have thought you would see a drop in coolant, unless it is just a weep. My 80 had a leak in the pipework to the rear heater and somehow that made the driver's footwell wet. A friend's 80 was wet inside and I think we traced it to blocked...

Would you not smell the damp area? Anti freeze coolent has a nose. Are you finding the coolant needs topping up?

It actually reads in the ad as a tad under 400k km which would be about 240k miles. If the body work has been done properly you could not get anywhere near that price if you bought a scruffy vehicle and then paid a paint shop /restorer. Can't think you would be far off if you did most of the...

My 24v '95 had an issue with the relay not switching off the intake heater for some time. A few stop starts and the batteries would be flat. It would draw enough power to dip the headlights. Removed the main wire and end if problems. Took me ages to work out what was the cause. The 4.2 engine...

I will just mention the company, but not much use if not retively local: Pulse, Hadleigh, Essex. (nr Southend on sea).

Update. English guy has bought it in France to take back to UK apparently. Really only got scrap money but for my old customer it was hassle free.

Quick update. New Cobra alarm fitted with remote fobs. Seems to work well.

The reset on mine used to be remove battery terminals, switch on key, replace battery terminals, then start. On mine now the reset does not last.