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What I did with mine was to have my wife crank the engine with me holding a voltmeter on the batteries. "Click Click Click" , 3 volts and there you go.
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80 series - starting issues - looking for suggestions
- Thread starter Dave_S
- Start date
I suppose the ultimate load test is does it start the car
I've had good luck with them, but thats not to say they're perfect - but they're portable and quite handy. When I've had batteries that are knackered, the tester has reported always reported a low CCA.I've used a few of them, but mostly this one:
Obviously you have to put in the right details (battery type, capacity) to get a sensible reading back.
Personally I usually look to change the batteries after 4-5 years anyway!
The problem is that these modern systems do not test the integrity of the internal connections, now no longer visible like 'old' batteries they are often forgotten about. From the moment any battery is banged hard on a floor, or the shop counter the internal frame below the plates can fracture, this means that one or more of the cells are 'hanging' from internal connections, over time these fractures get worse, the results are that a modern tester can 'see' the opposite terminal so can pass the test current of a few milliamps and give a reading of 'good' however, a full load test will show up a bad connection internally, in the same way as a bad connection on an external connection can cause a non start situation, something light weight modern testers simply cannot test.
Regards
Dave
Regards
Dave
Useful stuff guys. Still looking into this, but I noticed that one of the batteries was fitted in 2014 (I think the other was 2016) so I guess they're about due replacement anyway! Local auto electrical place wants stupid money (£263) for a pair, so will see what I can source - a quick Google seems to suggest £80 odd each is nearer the mark for "normal" 088/089 batteries.
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I have had a set of Optima yellow top batteries on me truck since I joined the club in 2016 yes they cost a bit more than normal batteries they power a 14000lb winch when I need it never had a problem starting so can recommend them other members have said that genuine Toyota batteries are a good option as are other named brands but I would go up the price scale for new ones unless a supplier has a good percentage off the shop price
Maybe it depends on the tester, but the ones I've seen give a measurement of internal resistance, which would be high if the connections between the plates were knackered?
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Mblinko
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I'm no expert but having replaced both batteries with Odyssey some years ago I too encountered starting problems which prompted all the above checks. My CTEK charger did it's stuff but to no avail. A load test revealed the drivers side one was at fault. whether this was because all ancillary circuits are also connected on that one and nothing on the passenger side one I don't know. It seemed a coincidence, but then I couldn't just rule out a failed battery. I thought 12v consumption discharge was spread across both batteries.
The 2 batteries are linked and discharge together. You can disconnected either and still have normal 12v function. This only changes when the large solenoid is activated and 24v (batteries in series) selected for starter motor. Simultaneously the 12v circuits are dropped when the starting circuit activated. I expect you know that anyway.
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I've converted mine to 12 volt start. One battery is more than capable to run the starter etc so I just use one battery connected so I always have a spare. i "rotate" the batteries every few months and keep the disconnected one on trickle. Current Vartas are 5 years old !!
Whilst I hear what you are saying consider this, switch on your headlights and they along with your sidelights are bright and all is well, note the power being drawn would be circa 8 - 10 amps, so yes if the typical tester was used (or even an MM) then it would return good results, now attempt to crank the engine and you get perhaps a click or two. You have applied the requirement of well over 100 amps! The headlights and then crank test would show up for example if the external battery terminals were poor however, if the connections inside the battery between the cells were weak or damaged then the modern tester cannot in anyway detect this, a simple connection between the cells inside then yes your modern tester would show good, give the battery a 'proper' load and only then can you test it as the modern stuff cannot detect this kind of fault. My tester is the old carbon pile type, connect it to the battery and yes 12.8 volts or even higher, so the battery is good right? And a modern testers says yes great battery as well, now I press the 'load' button which the modern tester does not have and I get a faulty battery indication with voltage perhaps 10 volts or even less depending on the battery internal connections, despite the modern technology which I am all for, an example would be my 80 has no mechanical engine cooling fan, it has a PWM electric fan. So much more efficient when cooling the engine and instant AC which is not possible with a VC type fan. Do I trust it after fitting electric fans since the late 70's, sure I do when used under normal circumstances, when I venture out into the desert I take a spare mechanical fan....you know just in case. But then I also take a spare alternator, a starter (despite being a manual gearbox), and even a spare CV. Those on this site and others who I have been out there with will tell you that being 'all electric' and being in Spain and in the desert I have had no cooling issues whatsoever, but sorry drifting off topic, so back to the modern tester, they can only check a batteries charge and general condition however, they can never test it under 'real world' circumstances, I see no reason to carry around such a device in the glove box that can only give me half the information I need in fact, despite being in business as a mechanic I don't even own one.
Regards
Dave
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I did the 12v conversion as well Frank but my batteries are connected all the time...well sort of. I use a 500 amp VSR from Blue Seas and an NL individual battery voltage indicator, I would never purchase integral units where the VSR and battery condition are 'all in one', if you know about this stuff you would know why.
In general my batteries are in parallel, only when either of the batteries voltage gets low does the VSR disconnect as you would know. ALL loads except the starter are connected to the right battery or 'aux' as I call it. when the engine is off. So the alarm would be set and would initially be drawling from both batteries, the VSR would disconnect the batteries after say a week depending on charge? This allows the starter battery to be under no further draw, so still with a good strong charge to start the engine. Within a minute or so of starting the VSR would combine the batteries, so allowing them both to be charged I have a manual control as well so can separate or join the batteries at the push of a button, this gives me the ability to 'jump start' the engine if the starter battery fails, I use dual purpose marine batteries, so prolonged gentle discharge is not a problem, and of course they are able to start the engine. At a guess I reckon I get around four years from a set of batteries (always purchased in pairs and tested and charged before installing), as is expected the 'aux' or right hand battery which apart from the alarm also runs the fridge and lighting when off road is the first to die (dual purpose batteries are a compromise between start and deep cycle) but this saves having different battery constructions/technology needing different charge rates or fitting things like the CTEK (no offense to anyone who has purchased one of these), so back to what I was saying I get around four years out of a set of these normal wet cell batteries, I have no doubt that a set of AGM batteries would probably last perhaps a little longer now the technology has surpassed GEL batteries.
Regards
Dave
LandLocked93
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Guessing there's no AutoZone or O'Reillys or general automotive parts store in UK to get a free batt load test.
But yes, load test each individually. But then you mention the install dates...lol.
Def batt issues.
But yes, load test each individually. But then you mention the install dates...lol.
Def batt issues.
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Dont know if this is worth anything, but i had exactly the same issue a couple years ago... fully charged batteries would simply die overnight and it was driving me nuts.
I ended up replacing the alternator as one or more diodes had failed and was slowly discharging the batteries.
I did however, replace both batteries at the same time and its been superb and faultless ever since.
I ended up replacing the alternator as one or more diodes had failed and was slowly discharging the batteries.
I did however, replace both batteries at the same time and its been superb and faultless ever since.
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You can do a free battery test on your own. Turn the key and if the voltage drops the battery is defective. That assumes it has been on charge for a long time so it is not just a bit flat. The stater motor is acting as the drop tester.
