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Any painters out there ?

I appreciate the support guys but its his mother and brothers my heart goes out to , i need to get over there his younger brother witnessed the accident and didn't even know it was his brother until he attempted to pull him from the wreckage , I hope i can help him but i have to let him vent some rage before i try , no sense in plugging a leaking valve when the pressure is still rising .
 
Poor chap must be terrible for him.
All the best stu
 
I only saw this tonight Shayne, what a terrible thing to happen. Just be there for them.
 
Revisited the paint today with a Mequiars ultimate starter polishing kit and was initially impressed with the result , until i took a photo which seemed to show it was the wrong colour :think:

It should be noted at this point Helen was astonished how good it looked and i had only used rubbing compound so had i continued with all the various waxes and polishes it probably would have finished up great .

I thought maybe there is a film of rubbing compound glazing it so like a fool i wiped a bit over with turps which instantly removed the Halfrauds paint completely .

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Questions -

Is Halfords paint really that rubbish and if so what other should i use ?

and assuming 202 black can't possibly be the wrong colour wherever its from , is it the clearcoat that makes it appear to be the wrong colour ?
 
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Go back a page JR it pissed down :lol: , so is that it - do i have to remove it all and start again ?
 
Sorry Shayne, i skipped through the thread a bit to quick, yep it's moisture got under the lacquer & discolored it.
Flat it back to the colour coat & re lacquer
 
Cheers JR i decided very early on this attempt would be classed as a learning curve so nothing lost and knowing why it didn't work puts me 3 steps forward on my next attempt :thumbup:
 
Yep Shayne, December isn't the ideal month to be spray painting outside, unless you're in Barbados or Australia :lol:

Have to give it to you though, it's a job I wouldn't have attempted myself, and it looked pretty damn good I must say, you almost got away with it.

Im surprised though, that turps dissolved a cellulose paint/clearcoat, unless it was acrylic paint you used... now I've really run out of technical knowledge, not knowing the effect of turps on acrylics... :icon-rolleyes: :thumbup:
 
I want to .... but don't know if i have the courage to ........ take the bonnet off , sand it down and paint it with a roller using real paint , oil based tough stuff . A daft idea maybe but i would love to see if i could polish it flat and shiny .
 
I want to .... but don't know if i have the courage to ........ take the bonnet off , sand it down and paint it with a roller using real paint , oil based tough stuff . A daft idea maybe but i would love to see if i could polish it flat and shiny .

I wouldn't recommend it Shayne, you can end up in all sorts of bother mixing oil based and cellulose based paints, blistering and the like. It gets more complicated with modern paints too, acrylics, two-pacs, and the like, I'm lost already, which is why you should read up on it first, before sloshing on the Valspar.

(Do they still make Valspar? They used to make good old fashioned oil based paint :dance:)
 
First attempt with rattlecans was a fail Clive but with the benefit of hindsight i would say its easy . I'm not sure about Valspar but there is always International paint in my shed :icon-wink:
 
I've just googled Valspar and International, both have interesting histories.

Valspar is American and International is UK, but founded by a pair of German brothers. Both companies date back to mid 1800's and Valspar is about twice the size with 10,000 employees, compared with International's 5,500.

There you go..... Err .... Where? :icon-rolleyes:
 
Shayne the only thing you did wrong was rush it!

The halfords colours aren't perfect in some cases as I recently did my wheel arch on the landcruiser which was a bit darker and in Febuary did my renault megane arch and you could never tell the difference.

A halfords colour can will cover about 1/2 a square meter allowing for a bit of blowing in. You are spot on about the spray distance but there are two things you can do to help this.

1 is heat the can with the heat gun before use ( er dont try this at home) This thins the paint and increases the pressure exponentially! Further away is ok and if it looks dry then do three passes instead of two or travel slower.

2). Is buy a can of HiKote brand gloss, and swop the nozzle over to the haldfords can. Those nozzles give a much better spray pattern than halfords. Dont release the spray at the end of the pass just move it further away and bring it back in on the return.
let it dry well and then do the same with the clearcoat. the clear will run though so be careful. basically empty the can of clear coat building up thin layers until its empty. dont worry about travelling onto unkeyed areas of lacquer as it will flatten off again. Id say about a coat every 15-20 mins. leave it for a couple of weeks because it will take about that long for it to become chemically hard. Flatten it with 2000grit wet and a foam pad in random orientation then G3 it. should be a goodun

There is also a third option which to buy the refillable aerosol kits you can get and then use base from MaxMeyer and a two pk clear. go at it again. even if you fk it up 3 times still wont have cost more than a few pints and you will have a new found skill.
 
Cheers IRL i'm confident anyone can do it but you can't buy experience so any and all pointers are welcome . I was looking at the truck today from 10ft away and the polished bit looked great . I think perhaps my biggest mistake is seeking close up perfection when nobody but myself is likely to see whats shown in the pics . I can't really fault the Halfords paint it went on ok though heating the can has to improve pressure and it needs it . I definitely didn't apply enough clearcoat but even if i had i don't think its hard enough for polishing or offroad so i will look into the MaxMeter stuff and see what i can find .
 
Is Gary820 about ? need to clearcoat this and i'm wondering if i should mask off a larger area to let the clearcoat overlap the paint but i'm worried that might make polishing it in a nightmare .

So replace the masking where it was or do it again to let the clearcoat overlap ?

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Or maybe i should leave as is giving it a couple of weeks to dry then polish out the line before adding clearcoat ?
 
Is this the bonnet Shayne?
Looks like you've painted to a masking line?
What you could try is to wet flat the base coat so you lose the defined line and it'll give the surrounding area a keyed area for clear coat. Mask off a much bigger area but don't go right upto it. It'll then need a wet flat and polish to blend in when dry.

You'll need to make sure the base is completely dry if wet flat before the clear coat. Base coat can be porous and you don't want moisture under the clear (as you've experienced before)
 
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