Ho-hum.... Fingers crossed Chris....
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Auto Windscreens. Grrrrr.
- Thread starter Chris
- Start date
Well a pair of them turned up to do this. We had a good chat about the forum collective wisdom and it was his view that we should try it with the old seal and no sealant first. I measured the old screen (that was in with no sealant whatsoever and did not leak a drop) and it was between 4.8 and 5mm. The new screen measure around 5.5mm so not thinner. It certainly fought him every step of the way. It did not want to go in. Pretty tight. I have to say that I was confident as he was that it wouldn't leak being that tight. He did say if it leaked, he'd rather come back and seal it than do that now.
There was a quite large hole in the top of the screen going through into the roof I guess. Outside the pinch seal, but a damn hole nonetheless. I cleaned it up and filled it whilst they waited. How good a repair? Well it's not a hole anymore so that's better.
I was on the phone when they were leaving so couldn't try the screen until later. I gave it a significant hosing, blasting the seal all round. I waited for a while and yes, there was very slight evidence of droplets in the corner of the screen above the dash, so obviously I'll have them back. But I might just drive a bout a bit first and see if the screen will wiggle in a bit and seal. It's undergone major trauma getting it in. I doubt that will do it, but I'll give it a whirl until they return. The fitters were good lads and pretty experienced, but as for AW themselves, poor in all respects really. It's a shame about the leak, it's pretty small, but I did want to give it a go. Not a great surprise but it adds to the bank of knowledge. I think it will surprise him that it leaks at all.
There was a quite large hole in the top of the screen going through into the roof I guess. Outside the pinch seal, but a damn hole nonetheless. I cleaned it up and filled it whilst they waited. How good a repair? Well it's not a hole anymore so that's better.
I was on the phone when they were leaving so couldn't try the screen until later. I gave it a significant hosing, blasting the seal all round. I waited for a while and yes, there was very slight evidence of droplets in the corner of the screen above the dash, so obviously I'll have them back. But I might just drive a bout a bit first and see if the screen will wiggle in a bit and seal. It's undergone major trauma getting it in. I doubt that will do it, but I'll give it a whirl until they return. The fitters were good lads and pretty experienced, but as for AW themselves, poor in all respects really. It's a shame about the leak, it's pretty small, but I did want to give it a go. Not a great surprise but it adds to the bank of knowledge. I think it will surprise him that it leaks at all.
Gary820
Well-Known Member
Good they eventually got a screen, not so good there's a slight leak but at least it's not pouring in! Aftermarket screens definitely not all thinner glass then!!!
Have to admit it's why I like fitting bonded screens, as long as the glue is on right it's not going to leak!
Have to admit it's why I like fitting bonded screens, as long as the glue is on right it's not going to leak!
You might be right about it bedding in. I guess there's a fair bit of flex on these bodies especially if you chuck it about a bit a few times around the block.
Holes around the screen are a pain. I don't have a hole, but I do have a rust spot dead centre at the top. My man treated it 3 years ago when the screen was out for the re-spray, but he told me then that it would be back. It can just be seen now 3 years on, bubbling under the paint.
The only cure is to chop it out and replace the metal. Anything else is a temporary measure IMO.
Holes around the screen are a pain. I don't have a hole, but I do have a rust spot dead centre at the top. My man treated it 3 years ago when the screen was out for the re-spray, but he told me then that it would be back. It can just be seen now 3 years on, bubbling under the paint.
The only cure is to chop it out and replace the metal. Anything else is a temporary measure IMO.
But what causes them right at the top like that?
There's nothing down below where you'd expect water to gather and do mischief.
I've seen several older vehicles with the same problem, but it beats me why...
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I really hope it seals up for you Chris. IMO it's a design flaw with the rubber maki g the lower outer glass 'lip' higher than the inner. If it were the other way, water would drain outside.
Bottom corner on the glass side I presume?
At least you got two fitters, and at least one who knew how to fit old style windscreens.
Bottom corner on the glass side I presume?
At least you got two fitters, and at least one who knew how to fit old style windscreens.
No Ideas Clive.
Yes Rich exactly that but I can't tell if it's tracing to the lowest point or if it's actually leaking there. It doesn't really matter, it's a leak and that's that. Not catastrophic and it would be great to give it a wiggle but let's be honest, with it that tight going in, it's unlikely to wiggle much more.
The lad was very knowledgeable yes. He'd spent years with his dad fitting coach and bus screens.
Yes Rich exactly that but I can't tell if it's tracing to the lowest point or if it's actually leaking there. It doesn't really matter, it's a leak and that's that. Not catastrophic and it would be great to give it a wiggle but let's be honest, with it that tight going in, it's unlikely to wiggle much more.
The lad was very knowledgeable yes. He'd spent years with his dad fitting coach and bus screens.
Runs and hides…
Will they take the screen out again to dry the rubber before sealing it?
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Rubber squeezed against another non absorbent surface forms a capillary joint which draws in water. Then with the water exposed to almost no surface area it cannot dry out. That's why the windscreen apertures rust. The paint does not protect as there is a non painted part in the spot welded joints. Another perfect capillary ! I've seen loads of corrosion problems over the years caused by rubber. Even floor pans rotting from the inside with no corrosion on the outside. The rubber mats are dry on the surface. Carpet here is better as it soaks up the water, exposes it to a large surface area and it dries out.
You get the same problem on rendered houses. One crack in the rendering and water streaming off the rendered surface is drawn in to the structure. As the rendering is impervious the trapped water cannot dry out and the rendering perishes. I have 2 areas on my own property.
You get the same problem on rendered houses. One crack in the rendering and water streaming off the rendered surface is drawn in to the structure. As the rendering is impervious the trapped water cannot dry out and the rendering perishes. I have 2 areas on my own property.
Got it in one Frank, IMO, 100%
Another similar example in buildings (not windscreens but the same effect) is a rubber or Lino covering to a wooden ground-level floor.
The wood is prevented from breathing and hence drying out, as the rubber or Lino acts as a vapor barrier. Carpet has no ill effects.
The basement of out house had a wooden floor, with a wall-to-wall Lino type covering and adequate under-floor ventilation above the concrete base founding the joists of the floor.
The house was 2 years old when we bought it and within one more year, I went straight through the floor. 25mm thick boards had simply turned to dust (top-down) in 3 years where the rest of the floors in the house were perfect, and still are 15 years later.
Another similar example in buildings (not windscreens but the same effect) is a rubber or Lino covering to a wooden ground-level floor.
The wood is prevented from breathing and hence drying out, as the rubber or Lino acts as a vapor barrier. Carpet has no ill effects.
The basement of out house had a wooden floor, with a wall-to-wall Lino type covering and adequate under-floor ventilation above the concrete base founding the joists of the floor.
The house was 2 years old when we bought it and within one more year, I went straight through the floor. 25mm thick boards had simply turned to dust (top-down) in 3 years where the rest of the floors in the house were perfect, and still are 15 years later.
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That's bad luck Clive. Not much of a drop I hope.
With rubber or rendering crack it's a bit like drawing water into a syringe through a needle. Easy to draw in but I doubt it would ever dry out through a still open needle.
With rubber or rendering crack it's a bit like drawing water into a syringe through a needle. Easy to draw in but I doubt it would ever dry out through a still open needle.
Towpack
Well-Known Member
Caravans suffer the same ills when the mastic seal between the outer roof and wall sections and the aluminium awning rail/guttering breaks down and capillary action just keeps on sucking in water which can't dry out when it's trapped between 2 waterproof surfaces. The result is the inner timber frame and wall boards wet rot. If left long enough it can seriously affect the structural strength of the framework and you're left with a flat pack caravan!
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That's exactly what happened to my brothers caravan.
Nah, just the depth of the joists. We waterproofed the concrete and up the sides, filled it with a sand/cement mix and tiled it with rustic ceramics.
Looks OK and doesn't leak...
