Bust rear stabilizer bar

[Gary Stockton]

Found a UK supplier of Whiteline swaybar kits - about the same price as Mr T. See here:

http://www.europerformancedirect.co...ar-kits;car=toyotalandcruiser;product=364230#


or here:

http://www.part-box.com/products.php?brand=105-whiteline&vehicle=Toyota&range=433-whiteline-sway-bars-stabilizer-bars-anti-roll-bars&model=Landcruiser%20Prado


and this is the Oz website:

http://www.whiteline.com.au/do_segu...ADO+GRJ120,+RZJ120,+KZJ120&vehicle=3/03-10/09

with some more nice stuff...

Question is - do I go for the 30mm blade adjustable unit or the 27mm fixed unit??

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

you could just post them to me, they won't be as cool as the superior ones mind.

 

[Gary Stockton]

Thanks Jon - will give you a call in the morning to discuss. And that'll make them way cooler than the Aussie ones

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

Question is - do I go for the 30mm blade adjustable unit or the 27mm fixed unit??

No idea, but you want one that has arms as long as the OEM bar or you'll have travel problems.

 

[Gary Stockton]

OK - will pop some mails out tomorrow. Bit frustrating this - why aren't they open NOW dammit!!!!

 

[Gary Stockton]

Found a 2nd hand quarter vent window on the bay - that's a start Just waiting to see if it's complete with the antenna connectors, or if those have been cut off.

 

[Chris]

TBH Gary, the life of analogue radio is so short, I wouldn't be worrying about the glass aerial. I have DAB in both of mine which uses a different aerial.

Out of interest, would a Colorado bar fit yours? They are basically the same thing and I know that the earlier ones were solid.

Chris

 

[Gary Stockton]

It's a thought Chris...

the 95 seems to be different - ToyoDIY has different part numbers:

120 Series 48812	BAR, STABILIZER, REAR
48812‑60190		1	€ 154.23
48812‑60200	DIFFERENTIAL LOCK-WITH	1	€ 199.70

95 Series

48812	BAR, STABILIZER, REAR
48812‑60130		1	€ 176.01

 

[Gary Stockton]

For info:

I've been doing a little investigation on this, and I think I may be the culprit, ably aided by Mr el Cheapo Toyota and Mr Salty Roads.

I put in the ToughDog / AirBagMan suspension lift on mine - remember, it's the LC5 with the snazzy rear air suspension, which is actually very impressive the more I use it, being self-leveling and damn strong (I've only ever heard of one failed air-bag, and that was in extreme madness conditions).

One of the joys of the rear air suspension is to jack the rear end up even further at the push of a button, which gives about another 35mm lift. As I do this as a matter of course when engaging low-range, I'm fairly often running at 75mm - 80mm of total lift at the back with full axle flex being used without any help to the sway bar - so it's probably being torqued to death so it's no wonder it's become the failure point

So I guess I need to put in a beefier sway bar from Whitelines and then either a set of sway-bar disconnects or longer sway bar connectors:

Or the Jon Wildsmith special extensions as mentioned above.

So - moral of the story - if you put in a biggish lift on a 120, consider taking the strain off the sway bar.

Suspect I may need to do the same modification to the front one before it goes BANG

 

[AndyCook]

i fitted the longer colorado front droplinks to rear of my colorado, and put longer terrano ones at the front (as per Chris's recommendation when he did this to his) to end up with longer droplinks front/rear when i lifted my colorado
I dont know if the colorado has a solid or hollow ARB

 

[Chris]

Gary, do remember that the sway bar only does anything when you sway! If movement up and down is the same at each side, there isn't any torque on the torsion bar. Raised up and loaded with a lot of sway, well that's different I guess. If you take the ARB links off, you can just push the bar up and down in the stirrups.


Chris

 

[Gary Stockton]

Yep, agreed Chris - so - lifted, roof rack, roof tent, FoxWing, other stuff on roof, loaded inside - probably does sway a bit more than usual

 

[Doodle]

It's not just the engineering that's "Superior", so's the extortion.

They don't look at all difficult to make, the only expensive part is the rose joint at the bottom. Maybe £30 a pair in parts (and that's being generous), and a couple of beers to someone with a lathe to turn down and thread the ends?

 

[Gary Stockton]

That's the reference to Jon Wildsmith in the earlier mail

 

[Doodle]

Well indeed, but I didn't want to presume. After all, Jon might prefer wine

 

[Chris]

The rose joints can simply be used from the current drop links. Nothing new really needed there. These aren't really sway bar disconnects though. They're simply adjustable. On my 80 I just did a cut and shut adding in a piece equivalent to the lift I'd put in. If you want disconnects then you need some kind of pin arrangement that you can pull out. But then you have the problem of what to do with the roll bar itself. You can't just let it hang. The classic Jeep has a different set up somehow where you can pull a pin and hey presto. I wonder if the ARB arrangement is sort of inverted so that the axle can drop leaving the bar above it? I can't recall.

Perhaps the ends of the links could then somehow be sued to attach the bar to the chassis for storage. But as the hoop of the bar is attached to the axle, it might be quite tricky.

Hey - take them off completely!

I have.

Chris

 

[Gary Stockton]

Chris - yup, don't want disconnects, really - too finicky. And I want to keep them on I think for the road travel!

Jon's plan, as I understand it, is to cut the existing ones and add-in a 2" section to extend them for me. So reusing what's there.

And i'll be sending on some nice South African red, and a little Scottish tipple, too, I imagine

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

yep, cut em and weld em with an extra bit in the middle