GG, that's why I disconnected the auto CDL on the low ratio gears, now I have open diffs in low and its great for slow maneuvering or steep technical climbs.
Still 4x4 but with fully open diffs, lockable when needed.
Last edited:
Don't like the adverts? Click here to remove them
Christine the Cruiser
- Thread starter 105Aus
- Start date
GG, that's why I disconnected the auto CDL on the low ratio gears, now I have open diffs in low and its great for slow maneuvering or steep technical climbs.
Still 4x4 but with fully open diffs, lockable when needed.
greengrass
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2013
- Messages
- 306
- Country Flag
How did you do that clive???
I've always just assumed it was mechanical when you move the lever it chucks it in without any option.
I've always just assumed it was mechanical when you move the lever it chucks it in without any option.
I don't know the differences between the 80 and the 100 in this respect, but here's what I did to my manual 80 with the support of others on the forum, it was just a plug pull, nothing fancy, just disconnecting the auto CDL when in "low".
Towpack
Well-Known Member
All difflocks are mechanical wether they're operated electrically as in most LC's, compressed air, like the after market lockers (ARB etc) or fully manual like the early Discovery's where the H/L lever was pouched to the left to engage the CD. I've seen pictures of 60 series LC's which also had F+R lockers manually operated by cables from levers in the cab.
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2010
- Messages
- 5,514
105aus says it is possible to disconnect the front prop shaft then re engage. How is that possible ?
Ian Rubie
Moderator
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2010
- Messages
- 925
- Country Flag
Don't like the adverts? Click here to remove them
105Aus
New Member
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2014
- Messages
- 38
- Country Flag
The link ian put up is where i bought my kit also.
The kit gives you a gear to change out with a gear from your transfer case, the geat that makes your LC constant 4x4 so that it only sends drive to the rear full time, and then the lockable hubs are to take drive off my front axle/cv joints and diff centre as it unlocks the tyres from the c/v joints.
Sorry i've been on holidays but today i should be able to upload some pictures.
The kit gives you a gear to change out with a gear from your transfer case, the geat that makes your LC constant 4x4 so that it only sends drive to the rear full time, and then the lockable hubs are to take drive off my front axle/cv joints and diff centre as it unlocks the tyres from the c/v joints.
Sorry i've been on holidays but today i should be able to upload some pictures.
105Aus
New Member
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2014
- Messages
- 38
- Country Flag
First 2 pics are from just after purchase when i first got my car bogged, car was resting on bullbar and there was about a foot or water still below the tyre..
Picture of a tough hill near my home town, steep hill with 2x 2foot step ups about 1.5m apart
Done a trail in some nearby state forests and tried to get around a fallen tree stump, mud bank gave way and crunched in my guard and tore off the side bit of my bullbar, i cried when i saw the damage haha
Rock sliders i got made up, picture was taken at a prop shaft shop as the day before i bent it on a steep hill with a rock step, so i currently run a heavy duty thick walled rear shaft with truck uni joints.
Last pic is my 52 inch LED Lightbar on a bracket i made at work in an afternoon
More pics later but these are the ones i have on my pc already, the rest need moving and convertine to smaller sizes.
Picture of a tough hill near my home town, steep hill with 2x 2foot step ups about 1.5m apart
Done a trail in some nearby state forests and tried to get around a fallen tree stump, mud bank gave way and crunched in my guard and tore off the side bit of my bullbar, i cried when i saw the damage haha
Rock sliders i got made up, picture was taken at a prop shaft shop as the day before i bent it on a steep hill with a rock step, so i currently run a heavy duty thick walled rear shaft with truck uni joints.
Last pic is my 52 inch LED Lightbar on a bracket i made at work in an afternoon
More pics later but these are the ones i have on my pc already, the rest need moving and convertine to smaller sizes.
105Aus
New Member
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2014
- Messages
- 38
- Country Flag
Still dont have pics on pc, i rarely ever connect my phone to a computer so i'll have to download the phone app that lets me post from my phone.
In recent news, I have purchased a set of rear drawers with built in fridge slide and a 2.5M x 2.5M pullout awning.
I fit up the drawers easily within a few hours and for the price i paid for them i'm very happy with the build quality and the usefullness of the drawers themselves.
They are close to the same height as the middle row seats when folded down which is ideal as i sleep in the back of my cruiser when touring. In future i'd like to make a false floor so make better use of the space the rear seats occupy but for now im happy.
The awning needs to be mounted via roof racks or a roof cage, which I haven't bought yet but i work at a sheet metal fabrication shop and have made my own front bar in the past for my light bar to mount on and copied its design for a rear roof bar and I'm just making a short bracket for the middle set of bolts without doing a whole bar.
Just need to modify the included L brackets of the awning to raise it so I'm able to open my door still.
I also scored a rear wheel carrier that mounts onto the passenger side chassis rails and fits through the standard bumper. Only issue is it was originally of a HDJ100 (IFS) and I own a HZJ105R. After lots of welding up holes, drilling new holes, notching out brackets it sat too low and would mean id have to butcher my bumper and have a dodgy looking setup. So to fix this I bought some genuine brackets off a solid axle version ($350 AUD) and now the swing arm wont directly bolt to the bracket. KAYMAR must make every bracket slightly different so they can't be swapped and changed just to make it harder for folks like me haha.
In recent news, I have purchased a set of rear drawers with built in fridge slide and a 2.5M x 2.5M pullout awning.
I fit up the drawers easily within a few hours and for the price i paid for them i'm very happy with the build quality and the usefullness of the drawers themselves.
They are close to the same height as the middle row seats when folded down which is ideal as i sleep in the back of my cruiser when touring. In future i'd like to make a false floor so make better use of the space the rear seats occupy but for now im happy.
The awning needs to be mounted via roof racks or a roof cage, which I haven't bought yet but i work at a sheet metal fabrication shop and have made my own front bar in the past for my light bar to mount on and copied its design for a rear roof bar and I'm just making a short bracket for the middle set of bolts without doing a whole bar.
Just need to modify the included L brackets of the awning to raise it so I'm able to open my door still.
I also scored a rear wheel carrier that mounts onto the passenger side chassis rails and fits through the standard bumper. Only issue is it was originally of a HDJ100 (IFS) and I own a HZJ105R. After lots of welding up holes, drilling new holes, notching out brackets it sat too low and would mean id have to butcher my bumper and have a dodgy looking setup. So to fix this I bought some genuine brackets off a solid axle version ($350 AUD) and now the swing arm wont directly bolt to the bracket. KAYMAR must make every bracket slightly different so they can't be swapped and changed just to make it harder for folks like me haha.
Welcome back!
Good to see you're still in business with the 105 and making progress with mods. Rear carriers are a pain if not set up and working correctly. I've had to renew the bearing set-up on my rear ARB, so it's not always plain sailing even when you lash out big bucks on a prefabricated system.
Good to see you're still in business with the 105 and making progress with mods. Rear carriers are a pain if not set up and working correctly. I've had to renew the bearing set-up on my rear ARB, so it's not always plain sailing even when you lash out big bucks on a prefabricated system.
It was a fcuk-up from the start on my part really, because I gave the job of fitting it to someone else, and TBH, they probably didn't assemble it right from the onset. I say this because I found other questionable remedials were necessary but the bearing did seem to be ok until it developed play after about a year.
The first guy to repair it said it hadn't been assembled correctly and he replaced the bearings and said it was now ok. Then 3 years later it needed replacement again.
So now, I've just had it done again, being the 3rd time.
It's probably to do with how well the bearing is protected from grit and dirt, with seals etc. this last time, I had a grease point fitted, so I'll religiously pump it with grease very w/e and see how it goes. Originally it was a "sealed" unit, or at the least it wasn't greasable.
105Aus
New Member
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2014
- Messages
- 38
- Country Flag
Thanks Clive 
didn't realise it had been so long since I'd posted haha.
I'm hoping my 105 will be the last car I ever buy, I'm in love with it.
Yeah myn is already a pain and I haven't even had it fully fitted yet haha, hopefully I can get it good enough to last as it was originally intended.
didn't realise it had been so long since I'd posted haha. I'm hoping my 105 will be the last car I ever buy, I'm in love with it.
Yeah myn is already a pain and I haven't even had it fully fitted yet haha, hopefully I can get it good enough to last as it was originally intended.
Steve, I'd be interested if you have any info or a drawing or diagram showing the original ARB design for the pivot bearing. I think mine may have mutated in the course of the repairs, but it would be interesting to see the original design and whether it has seals and how they were intended to operate.
I would recommend, if you can, to install a grease-point. This can be on the "closed side" of the swing out so it's not visible in the closed position, but it would ensure that you can keep the bearings refreshed with clean grit-free grease from time to time. BTW, how old is your ARB now, has it rusted under the powder-coat or otherwise deteriorated?
Thanks Steve, I'll do a search to find the instructions
I'd be interested what you find in the bag, I never did get to know the original set-up from ARB.Sorry 105Aus for the thread jack...
105Aus
New Member
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2014
- Messages
- 38
- Country Flag
Woot Woot, finally finished making my rear roof rack and mounting my new awning. Will take some pics over the weekend of the bar I made and the awning itself, which can double as my car's progress shot.
I'm on the 105 series owners page on facebook and I used to check it out a few times a day but the last few weeks I have not been on social media very often. I checked in on the page Monday and seen a ARB Deluxe steel bar for sale for $700! (worth $1800 brand new) I was skeptical as to why it was so cheap but traveled the 4 hours to meet the seller and he explained it was due to an insurance job, someone in a Nissan Pulsar reversed into his car and their insurance company decided to give him a brand new bullbar since the pulsar hit his. He bought it back for $500 and made $200 from selling it on and from what i can tell its undamaged only has some white paint from the pulsar. SCORE
Hopefully with time permitting I'll be fitting this up before Christmas, and then i can mount my spotlights I bought off my boss, 2nd hand Narva Rally 2000's with HID kits fitted.
When i fit my drawers I just put them in the most convenient spot which was where the base mounts already were, so that they finished right against my rear seats when folded down. I did this as i sleep in the back of my car when on camping trips, I hate tents and have too many run ins with spiders and venomous snakes to sleep on a swag on the ground.
But this leaves a 1150mm or so gap between my drawers and the tailgate, which i see as wasted space since i dont have anything that fits there without sliding or flopping about. In the near future ill be moving the mounts to have the drawers closer to 5mm from the tailgate, and remove the rear seats and make a bolt in platform to sit level with the drawers and free up all the space my rear seats are wasting.
I'm on the 105 series owners page on facebook and I used to check it out a few times a day but the last few weeks I have not been on social media very often. I checked in on the page Monday and seen a ARB Deluxe steel bar for sale for $700! (worth $1800 brand new) I was skeptical as to why it was so cheap but traveled the 4 hours to meet the seller and he explained it was due to an insurance job, someone in a Nissan Pulsar reversed into his car and their insurance company decided to give him a brand new bullbar since the pulsar hit his. He bought it back for $500 and made $200 from selling it on and from what i can tell its undamaged only has some white paint from the pulsar. SCORE
Hopefully with time permitting I'll be fitting this up before Christmas, and then i can mount my spotlights I bought off my boss, 2nd hand Narva Rally 2000's with HID kits fitted.
When i fit my drawers I just put them in the most convenient spot which was where the base mounts already were, so that they finished right against my rear seats when folded down. I did this as i sleep in the back of my car when on camping trips, I hate tents and have too many run ins with spiders and venomous snakes to sleep on a swag on the ground.
But this leaves a 1150mm or so gap between my drawers and the tailgate, which i see as wasted space since i dont have anything that fits there without sliding or flopping about. In the near future ill be moving the mounts to have the drawers closer to 5mm from the tailgate, and remove the rear seats and make a bolt in platform to sit level with the drawers and free up all the space my rear seats are wasting.
Nice work 105... ,
I'm a bit envious of you guys with drawer systems.
I often use the third row, well at least once a week at weekends, so the remaining storage space is somewhat limited to say the least!
I've simply got 3 tool boxes end to end across the back of the truck behind the third row. It gives me tool-space, a box for my air-line, snatch-strap & block, and winch remote plus a box with recovery ropes, a chain and other bits & bobs.
Between the boxes and the third row, I've room for the high-lift and a shovel, and now the winter is coming, there's two bags of snow chains in there as well.
I'd quite like to build a mini drawer system behind the third row, up to folded seat platform level. I'm sure it would be tidier and more space economical than what I have now...
I'm a bit envious of you guys with drawer systems.
I often use the third row, well at least once a week at weekends, so the remaining storage space is somewhat limited to say the least!
I've simply got 3 tool boxes end to end across the back of the truck behind the third row. It gives me tool-space, a box for my air-line, snatch-strap & block, and winch remote plus a box with recovery ropes, a chain and other bits & bobs.
Between the boxes and the third row, I've room for the high-lift and a shovel, and now the winter is coming, there's two bags of snow chains in there as well.
I'd quite like to build a mini drawer system behind the third row, up to folded seat platform level. I'm sure it would be tidier and more space economical than what I have now...
105Aus
New Member
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2014
- Messages
- 38
- Country Flag
Thanks Clive.
Yeah I'd seen plenty of setups with them the last 2 years and i'd gotten tired of carrying all my camping gear in plastic containers so i bit the bullet and got myself a set, 2 trips away so far with them onboard and its one of the best investments for camping i have made yet.
Ah bugger, well atleast you're utilising what space you do have pretty well, i dont have any kids yet and my mates and family have their own cars to tag along with so the 6 rear seats have no use to me at this stage of my life. But for the space you have you seem to have it sorted with the essentials.
I pack some of my spares, my air lines and tyre guage, tyre deflaters and some ropes in the very rear drivers side plactic compartment and fits in near and snug.
Nice, if you do i look foward to a write up. I would have loved to build my own so i could have made them full length and a little less tall but lack such carpenty skills.
Yeah I'd seen plenty of setups with them the last 2 years and i'd gotten tired of carrying all my camping gear in plastic containers so i bit the bullet and got myself a set, 2 trips away so far with them onboard and its one of the best investments for camping i have made yet.
Ah bugger, well atleast you're utilising what space you do have pretty well, i dont have any kids yet and my mates and family have their own cars to tag along with so the 6 rear seats have no use to me at this stage of my life. But for the space you have you seem to have it sorted with the essentials.
I pack some of my spares, my air lines and tyre guage, tyre deflaters and some ropes in the very rear drivers side plactic compartment and fits in near and snug.
Nice, if you do i look foward to a write up. I would have loved to build my own so i could have made them full length and a little less tall but lack such carpenty skills.
